dr bob

When did they change? I don't have a broad experience with early cars.

What as that you said about senility? I ASKED WHAT YOU SAID...

James Bailey

Hard to say since so many were replaced with the newer version as they failed.

Bjbpe

A lot of good comments here that I was mulling over in my feeble, 77 year old brain and, while I was driving to lunch I happened to look down at the switches on my center console. The two end ones (for the windows) have bright new decals on them because they were replaced a couple years ago (for the umpteenth time). The two middle ones (rear wiper and roof) don't have any decals because they were probably worn off by me fifteen to twenty years ago as they have never had to be replaced. Is it because the good Lord favors these switches or is there a difference in design of the middle switches. It seems to me that the roof switch works in both directions so one would think that it might be the same as the window switches. Hmmmmm! Anybody want to comment on this? Next weekend I am going to endeavor to repair a switch as it is a pain trying to go through the drive-through at Macdonalds.

MainePorsche

Barney, from what I recall the window and the sunroof switch had the same design, as I had to repair all three along the lines of the link I (and another) had posted earlier. I do not recall if their wire harness connectors were the same, but the design and construction of the switches were.

tmpusfugit

The switches are identical, but the wires and connectors are not. The length of the wires varies, and the connectors on the ends are color coded to match their respective jacks. I changed to the replacement (touch) switches from Hans that have relays, LED lights, and a very nice panel that replaces all 4 switches. Very pleased with it, and it works far better than the original switches. I had an original style fail in a matter of months of my replacing it..... Han's solution appears to be quite robust....

17prospective buyer

Bob; with regards to the tab reinforcement you can probably just cut out some SS sheet metal and rivet it in place like is shown on Nicoles site right? Pretty simple?

dr bob

I'm sure you could get creative with sheet metal and pop-rivets, but those 'solutions end up just supporting the sides of the console separately. If feeble memory serves me correctly, the real solutions include a section that supports the switches all the way across. I haven't needed to lift the console out in a lot of years now (knocks wood...) so I don't remember the specifics of the support needed. Last one I had apart was James M's 86Euro project car, and I just lifted the rear end enough to snap the window switches clear for removal. His switches were crudded up pretty good, but the ultimate problem turned out to be broken wire in the door harness. The switches were a lot smoother after they were cleaned and re-greased though, principally they woule snap back to center position without any assistance needed. I need to do the same service on mine as a PM task. They work fine now, we'll see how well they work after they are "fixed".

Jim Devine

This thread is a good read for a fix-
Dimensions for the brass inserts are at # 47.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-mechanic.html

Kevin in Atlanta

The window switch works by breaking contact, not making contact. Folks think that by pressing harder they will get a better result when what they are doing is doing further damage to the switch and the metal supports in the console.

Making new parts does not address the underlying issue. Soon the new squares will not be long enough. Over time the metal clicker in the switch sticks in the open position.

You need to take the switch apart and twist the 'down' side metal tab counter clockwise to restore its proper position. You should be able to press with minimal force to open or close the window.

Kevin in Atlanta

Spent a lot of time fighting a balky sunroof switch today. Took the switch apart, studied the movement and saw that it would get stuck the open position. I have concluded that over time the metal simply weakens and is prone to distortion.

This distortion leads to the metal failing to snap back. I tweaked the inboard side of the 'clicker' with good but temporary results. I concluded I need something to assist the switches design to snap the switch closed. What I ended up doing is using a piece of a bike tire inner tube as a spring to help the switch close after I released the switch. I cut about an 1/8th of an inch of the natural fold of the tube to form a 'c'.

I simply slid it in the gap between the two contacts the length of the switch. That assist is enough to keep the switch from staying open. No change in functionality. If this works I will add to my window switches.

dr bob

This post is worth less without pictures.

Kevin in Atlanta

I will post some later today.

MainePorsche

I've done the removal, dissection, shaving, and bending twice in 4 years.
Due for it again.
I've considered a modification, and would really be interested to see your remedy.

tmpusfugit

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...de-update.html

There are 28 pages of info and follow up and questions regarding the Han's and Paul window switch solution. I have one and I like it a lot......
I stole this photo from 928MAC IIRC...

Kevin in Atlanta

Real men fix switches.

Top view of switch. Edit: Up and Down are reversed.



Top view of switch with inner tube inserted between the contacts.