Bjbpe

I think I'm on my fourth or fifth set of window switches since I bought my '87 S4 in '87. All of them were new original Porsche parts in the Porswche plastic bags. They just don't last. A couple years and back to another purchase.

This time I'm going to buy ebay since some of the threads I've seen say that they are just as good.

I recall seeing a thread several months (years, centuries) back where someone took his apart and made them work again. Can't find the thread. Anybody know where it is? Instead o0f throwing them away, I think I'll take a shot at fooling around with one of the junkers.

928porschemangreg

I found it. Gotta do this to mine too. http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/windowSW.htm

Nicole

What exactly goes wrong with them? Do they break or stick?

I don't think this is such a common failure. Which raises the question why it happens to you so often.

Do you live in an extreme climate? (hot, cold moist, dusty)

Rob M Budd

Often its not the switch but the mounting that causes them not to work.
The plastic lip on the opening that is supposed to hold the switch in place breaks off. Operating the switch pushes it down into the hole. When the window doesn't open, there is a tendency to push harder which eventually breaks the switch.
In the picture, I can't really tell but it looks like the lip is covered with a white piece of something at the forward opening. It looks like its been repaired. The rear lip looks like its intact.

Check yours by pushing on the switch with normal pressure. If it rocks back a bit but remains level and stays up, the lip is intact and the switch may be bad. If the whole switch goes down into the opening, the lip is gone. The switch may be OK but will break eventually.

Mrmerlin

in order to make the switches last longer it requires removal of the window regulator and motor.
Once these parts are out then you would clean and lubricate the pivot on the regulator add grease to the gears.
Take the motor apart and clean it and grease it,
Its also a good time to replace the 2 white plastic window guides that run the window up the metal guide tube.
Why this? Because the regulator pivot gets crusty and thus takes more energy from the motor, also the motor is also gunked up with original grease this strains the rest of the electrics, and make the switches .

I have done this to a few cars that had bad switches,
once completed the windows go up fast and the switches work well.

Ahh the other thing to look out for is the switch mounting in the console.
The metal housing can sometimes be bent down this will let the rocker possibly get jammed in a position other than off,
thus it continues to run and gets hot and melts.
To fix this you need to remove the console and then rebend the housing from underneath, possibly remove it and straighten it

MainePorsche

Barney,
Here is the link to the switch repair. Not difficult at all.

http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/windowSW.htm

Sorry. Read right over post 2 which had the same link.
Best Wishes.
Craig

MainePorsche

Oh, and if your decals on the switches have faded,http://marketplaceadvisor.channeladv...339&i=26457776
I haven't got them yet, but I would trust Nicole.

Kevin in Atlanta

I would say that the switch design is not the problem. It is our tendency to push harder when we do not get the correct result. When we do this we twist the metal part in the switch that is supposed to break contact. I saw this in an old switch I had on my work bench. It would stick open. This renders the switch useless.

With the switch face with the part number facing away and the wiring extending to the right I twisted the left tang that gets stuck clockwise. Then the switch would close the contact as soon as I released the switch.

After placing the switch back in the console gently press the open and close and listen for the click as you release the switch. If you don't hear a click, look for interference and noted above.

We need to be trained to not mash the switches. Cleaning the window motors sounds like a good idea. Is there a write up for this?

WallyP

When you take the switch apart, do so inside a clear plastic bag...

dr bob

The window switches aren't packed with springs and ball bearings like the seat switches. Much easier to take apart and clean, with no risk of explosion. The ones in James' '85EURO car were packed with hardened grease. Took them apart and cleaned them, replaced old grease with new, they worked great again.

------

There are rear console support bracket reinforcements available from several sources. These fix the common damage that results from passengers using the rear end of the console as a fulcrum as they jack themselves up out of the seat. If you can use your hand and 'rock' the rear of the console side to side, you are a candidate for the new reinforcement bracket. Without it, you risk damaging the switches the next time weight is put on a rear corner of the console. The factory support is via a couple plastic tabs with screws into little brackets attached to the metal tunnel. The plastic tabs break. Metal replacement is better.

WallyP

Thanks, bob - senility is an ugly thing, but I keep trying...

Bjbpe

Thanks to all for comments and instructions. Obviously I've hit on another of the many 928 quirks. Ain't this fun?

Ethre

Must be a year change - because all my center switched (82) are spring and ball bearing.

James Bailey

correct, all early switches were ***** and springs.

WallyP

Aha! So the old fart was just remembering the old switches!