ANOTHER FINE MESS I'VE GOTTEN MYSELF INTO
09-17-2012, 04:17 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
One simple thing that can make CIS cars hard to start is the idle mixture adjustment. The air flap pushes on a plunger that allows fuel through the fuel distributor. If I remember correctly at idle (and when starting, even more so) there is not really enough air to push the flap open enough to let fuel through, so the flap is held cocked open slightly by the idle adjustment screw. If the screw is backed off too much then you will not get enough fuel when trying to start.
09-17-2012, 06:25 PM
#18
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Actually...."QUESTION: ignition problem OR fuel pressure regulator?? (points plugs and dist cap next week). " Since it is CIS it all comes down to system presure and control pressure. The warmup reg control pressure sets the mixture all the time adjust with vacume and for altitude. It is the brains of a brainless fuel injection. Also note the Euro uses more ignition timing than a USA.
09-17-2012, 07:35 PM
#19
Instructor
Great deal, especially for a Euro....a real good starting platform. I have 83 US and love it so you will be quite pleased that that extra power! I am not sure what they were going for with that color scheme....but that is all fixable and you can make it your own. Also start by getting the manuals and a copy of the PET. There are sometimes none and sometimes BIG differences on a Euro. But you are no stranger to research it seems and there are many people here to help....enjoy the water....
09-17-2012, 08:36 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Awesome interior! I mean that - black or cashmere/tan are ultra boring.
The white rub strips on the outside are a bit bleh.
But you've obviously done some reading, and made a great initial purchase.. a running Euro with the 300hp engine and a 5-speed, and a cosmetically excellent interior, for $3k is a *really* good entry to the 928 world.
You're immediately $5k ahead of most buyers of early cars by virtue of having an interior that isn't split, cracked and leaking foam.
As you can turn your own wrenches, you're all set to do well. Just pay a lot of attention to posters on here and their recommendations on how to deal with the CIS system.
Oh, and phone Roger (928srus.com) and order a CIS gauge set, so you can actually tell what's going on with your control and system pressures, rather than trying to do it by guesswork! (this is where a lot of K-jet owners fail)
The white rub strips on the outside are a bit bleh.
But you've obviously done some reading, and made a great initial purchase.. a running Euro with the 300hp engine and a 5-speed, and a cosmetically excellent interior, for $3k is a *really* good entry to the 928 world.
You're immediately $5k ahead of most buyers of early cars by virtue of having an interior that isn't split, cracked and leaking foam.
As you can turn your own wrenches, you're all set to do well. Just pay a lot of attention to posters on here and their recommendations on how to deal with the CIS system.
Oh, and phone Roger (928srus.com) and order a CIS gauge set, so you can actually tell what's going on with your control and system pressures, rather than trying to do it by guesswork! (this is where a lot of K-jet owners fail)
09-17-2012, 11:15 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
BRINGING IT BACK TO LIFE
20 years ago I brought an R-17 GORDINI junkyard dog back from the dead and had a lot of fun doing it. I didn't have a WSM to work from but I did have a Haynes manual. Great book because they tell you how to make some "special" tools and presume you don't know **** about the car. They even tell you when to put it back together and get prof help. I have a WSM downloaded onto my computer, but it leaves alot out. "first remove dashboard" OK, HOW??? I found a Haynes book on 944s but it doesn't really apply. Haynes website only lists 924 & 944. The R-17 had bosch injection on it (K-JET?). When I sold the car the book went with it. I did all the work on my 2 Mazda RX3s and my RX7. Factory mechs don't know **** about Wankle engines!! Fortunately I have 4-day weekends to work in it and can get to work by public transit if I have to. BIG THANKS for the info on the tools and K-jet. As for the dist cap & rotor, part of the "cheap & easy stuff" can't hurt to do it and get that out of the way. The PO must have used it as a snowplow because the front end is cranked down so low I can't get my ramps under it. MORE FUN & GAMES for another weekend. I keep telling myself "ITS A 30 YEAR OLD CAR" so I'll start at one end and work NORTH. Being IRISH, SCOTS & GERMAN I'm more than methodical and persistant. I love taking my SHARK out for a swim even thought it is'nt 100% yet. ANOTHER STUPID QUESTION: can I clean the cold start injector in place or do I really have to take it off?? I design build and fly R.C.aircraft so I'm pretty handy at making stuff. I'm making wire stone guards for my fog lights, if it goes well I'll post patterns and demsions for them for the rest of you guys.
09-18-2012, 12:54 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Tip for the ramps - use a jack on one of the front jack pads to lift the car a few inches.. that'll unsettle the front suspension and the front will stay lifted for about the next 30 miles of driving.
Then you can drive it up ramps etc.
(this is also why the 928 needs to NOT be lifted off its wheels before/during an alignment. the suspension setup is rather unique).
Then you can drive it up ramps etc.
(this is also why the 928 needs to NOT be lifted off its wheels before/during an alignment. the suspension setup is rather unique).
09-18-2012, 09:43 AM
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
THANKS FOR THE TIP WITH THE FRONT END. I was thinking of jacking it up in front, shoving the ramps under as far as I can, then jacking it down and driving up the rest of the way. AS for the blue/white interior, I like it. I was thinling of painting the hood, roof, hatch, and center of the tail cap white (the opposite of the seat color setup).
09-20-2012, 10:41 PM
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
THANKS FOR THE INFO ON K-JET, HILTON. GOOD ON YA, MATE!! Have downloaded it & will read thru it several times before I start taking stuff apart. IDIOT PO replaced the hose from the aux air valve to cold start valve with a piece of HEATER HOSE?!?! Also patched the hose from the throttle body to the aux air valve with silicone sealer, another IDIOT MOVE!!! Have ordered parts & should get them on Friday. I'm going to squirt SEAFOAM into cold start valve when I replace the hoses. Might go the trick, certanly can't hurt. Can I check the aux & cold start valves with my VOM?? If so what values do I look for?? Wish I could find a HAYNES Manual for 928, Have one for 944 but it doesn't really apply. Haynes web site doesn't list one for a 928. Did ALL the work on my RX-3s & RX-7 using HAYNES with great results. Hope I can find one for 928s
09-20-2012, 11:03 PM
#27
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The Haynes manual for the 928 isn't all that helpful. One of the 928 folks put together a killer set of CDs that contain basically all of the available tech info on the 928. This includes the factory shop manuals, wiring diagrams, training manuals, videos, tech spec booklets, changes by year, etc., etc., etc.
Available directly from Jim or from some of the vendors.
jim928ATptd.net - change the AT to @
Available directly from Jim or from some of the vendors.
jim928ATptd.net - change the AT to @
09-21-2012, 02:48 AM
#28
Chronic Tool Dropper
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The 928 factory WSM ASSumes that the dealer technician reding the book has been through all the apprentice and journeyman Porsche generaic training before they open the WSM. It's not a basic how-to manual for a first-timer. Just the details that go deepre than the basics learned at the more generic training.
In the way-back past, even 'experienced' new mechanics and techs still started off in the Porsche service shop cleaning parts and sweeping floors. In fact the term 'technician' wasn't used to refer to people who worked on Porsches. Regular training time was earned by service time, and you had a rigorous apprenticeship with a master mechanic. Lots of years spent earning the right to call yourself a Porsche mechanic.
In the way-back past, even 'experienced' new mechanics and techs still started off in the Porsche service shop cleaning parts and sweeping floors. In fact the term 'technician' wasn't used to refer to people who worked on Porsches. Regular training time was earned by service time, and you had a rigorous apprenticeship with a master mechanic. Lots of years spent earning the right to call yourself a Porsche mechanic.
09-21-2012, 03:25 AM
#29
Nordschleife Master
Forget Haynes. WSM's can be found online e.g. http://www.2010.cannell.co.uk/manual...s_porsche.html
Save them locally - a lot of sites hosing P-car manuals have been taken down in the last few months, so no guarantees any given site will still be around in the near-term.
The DVD Wally mentioned has more than just the WSM's on it - including all the factory tech bulletins, torque-spec reference books, and PDF's of various system-specific diagnostic manuals.
Save them locally - a lot of sites hosing P-car manuals have been taken down in the last few months, so no guarantees any given site will still be around in the near-term.
The DVD Wally mentioned has more than just the WSM's on it - including all the factory tech bulletins, torque-spec reference books, and PDF's of various system-specific diagnostic manuals.
09-21-2012, 07:23 PM
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
HAYNES MANUAL??
I've had good experinces with them so far. Kept my RX-3s & RX-7 alive-( in '73 dealer mechs didn't know squat about rotary engines,,Most Still don't) Haynes told me things the owners booklet left out. EAMPLE: Always pull the choke & idel at 2000rpm for 2 minutes before you take off. Fail to do that 1 time and you warp the rotor housings; NEVER NEVER EVER put synthetic oil in a rotary engine. They are designed to burn oil, synth. oil doesn't burn. It glazes the carbon rotor tip seals & they peel the hard-chrome lining off the rotor housings--NEW ENGINE TIME, and you don't even have a re-buildable core to send in. I'm smart enough to know what I don't know, so I'll be leaning on your expertise to help me and I thank you-all in advance for your help!! I've downloaded a WSM & PET from the net when I first got the car, I just wish I had a HAYNES to cross reference to. The only stupid question is the one you DIDN'T ask!!! P.S. The wife got me a CHILTONS book for my RX-7. The chapter on engine maint. showed a cast-iron push rod V-8!!! NOT a alloy 13-B engine. It did make a great door stop though