Ducman82

so close....

jbrob007

I just read everything I could find on the intermediate plate adjustment... Looks like I may have pulled the shift fork/throwout bearing TOO FAR... From what I've read I should only be pulling it out 8mm (equivalent to what the slave cylinder pushes) and doing the adjustment. Damn! I'm starting to hate this dual disc clutch...

Lizard928

Leave the clutch compressed,
The put a shim of .020" between intermediate and the H adjuster and pinch it.
This brings it down to the right height.
Once all 3 have this distance between the H adj and int plate pull the arm back and measure the distance required till it releases.
It must be below factory distance or you will drag.

jbrob007

Colin, Thanks! I'll give it a go in the next day or so (work keeps getting in the way). I might be jumping ahead, but if its ABOVE factory distance prior to releasing what can I do to correct it???

A little more info: The shifter works fine, although a little notchy, in the garage, just running through the six gears... Of course nothing is running, spinning, etc. Get her out on the road and its a totally different experience. Shifts up O.K. although notchy / crunchy. Down shifting to 2nd or 1st is practically impossible and sometimes I cant find any of the lower gears sitting at a light and needing to GO!

Thanks for all the assistance so far...

G8RB8

This could be your problem if it's not the LSD formula with friction modifiers. It's too slick for the syncros. Does it get easier after it gets hot?

jbrob007

I dont recall right off the top of my head, but it doesnt get better... if nothing else it gets worse with heat The manual shifter had its issues, mostly hard to down-shift from 3rd to 2nd at speed, but NOTHING like this... It shifted well enough, but everyone agreed my intermediate plate definitely needed adjustment. The Lizard Shifter was just an extra present from me to me... Hopefully the intermediate plate adjustment is the BIGGER issue and its not the syncros. Didnt appear to have big syncro issues before, but I know there was a lot of slop designed into the stock shifter...

Thanks!

I'll check the

Lizard928

This shifter requires the clutch to properly release.
Once you have your clutch properly it will shift well!
Also make sure that your hydraulics are fully functioning.

As to the oil, personally I like redline 75w90ns w/ a bottle of GM LSD fluid. It may weap a little fluid, but will shift beautifully.

jbrob007

I'm sure it will... I have no doubt of that. The intermediate plate is whats bugging the crap out of me now... I'll figure it out. If I need to change back to Redline I will. What is GM LSD Fluid? Not familiar...

Lizard928

The GM LSD additive is a small bottle. It eliminates LSD disk chatter even with a high friction fluid. Prior to GM making this fluid, what people used to prevent disk chatter was actually whale semen.......

Eplebnista

If you think your job sucks, consider the implications of this statement.

jbrob007

I knew I should've stayed on the coast!!! No whales to be found in O-H-I-O This is the first time I've read about using a .020 feeler to set the clearance with the clutch engaged and then checking the travel of the piston up to clutch release. Hope it works I'll report back once I get it adjusted correctly.

Thanks again!

Lizard928

No one has ever stated the .020" feeler guage before. But it's what I use.

jbrob007

Was up till 1:00 a.m. adjusting this thing... Used the .020 method. After adjustment I pulled the shiftfork until it released and measured 10mm from stop to release. Is that too far?

It seems to shift better, but its hit & miss - shifting up is pretty good while downshifting can be an issue, but better than before... so I'm thinking the adjustment is good, but you may be right about the hydraulics. Gonna powerbleed the clutch and see if there is improvement. I'll get there slowly but surely!

Any other recommendations on what to check / adjust??

Thanks in advance for everyone's assistance!

Lizard928

Remove C clip from master and pull piston out slightly. You will hear any air escape, then put back in and test.
Make sure you have no preload on the master.

jbrob007

I'm not quite sure how to do that... What I did is powerbleed the clutch system under pressure until all the old fluid was changed, includind unbolting the slave & holding the bleeder valve higher than the slave. We had clear fluid with no signs of air bubbles by the time we were done. I measured the slave piston travel - between 15 - 20 mm of travel. The throwout bearing squeaks when the clutch is disengaged, but shows no signs of failure (not throwing grease, etc). Took it down to test it and the clutch is STILL not releasing fully... BUMMER We can feel it with the rear wheels in the air and the car in gear...

Gonna start another thread "Dual Disc Clutch Adjustment" since the problem is NOT the shifter, but rather the clutch...

Thanks for the help!