WallyP

Try disconnecting the fan amp on the panel in front of the radiator.

JakeS2

Thanks Wally, will try that next, maybe tomorrow?

So, here's the deal, drain is located on the big cord running from (+) pole, i disconnected other wires from (+) pole and measured -> 2.5A. So, now we find something?

I've been reading the wiring diagrams (Sheet 10) and to my undestanding this large wire runs from (+) pole to Starter from where it goes to Alternator, Wire connector and then to magic abyss called 'A77'. Which seems to be found from sheet 9, and runs to ABS unit.

So here is my question. If I disconnect wire connector, alternator, starter and ABS unit my circuit should be 100% open, right?

Arnoud

To answer your question: logically, yes (I have not checked the 1989 specific electrical diagram yet, but IIRC that how it's on my 1994).

JakeS2

So, tomorrow its should say zero amps. Let's see... Tnx for the reply.

If you're on the move, freel free to come and pay a visit, sms before you take off

WallyP

If you disconnect the heavy red wire from the alternator to the "wire connector", also known as the jump start terminal, this will disconnect all power to the Central Electric Panel. If the drain goes to zero, you can start hunting...

Try the fan amp first - it is quick and easy, and will disconnect a known potential failure point.

JakeS2

WallyP, thanks for the tip but no luck. Drain is at 2.5A regardless of flaps on front bumper control plug or fan amplifier plug.

What I'll do next is to disconnect ABS pump, that's the only thing remaining on the large cable running from battery.

JakeS2

Hmm... little update here if you please.

The original problem still persists but.. heh.. it turned out that the massive "2.5A" drain was caused by my multimeter or in fact that I did not read the manual. Meter was at wrong settings. I have now taken apart all connections and still my meter shows 2.5A which cannot be right. Hah, man I feel myself stupid.

Good thing is that I am working through my electrics and get to know my car. Maybe I'll even find the original problem :smash:

JakeS2

..and laughing stops now :-)

JakeS2

Ok, some update. Now with right measurements. I did the measurement correctly when alternator was still in the game but then made some mistakes with my fluke and still was at 2A drain although the alternator was taken out of the picture.

But it's not all bad news, went through electrics on my S4 and found couple DIY connections (incl. extra power cord from ABS pump's terminal...) but now it's all good and all connectors are properly cleaned and I sprayed HD vaseline to them (used in electronics, forget CRC and WD40).

Can't wait to get my alternator back so I can DRIVE THIS THING!!

300 mA when trunk or doors are opened, then it drops to 31-32mA after some 10s or so.

WallyP

20 mA is goal, 32 mA is pretty good. That will give you somewhere between two weeks and a month of battery life.

JakeS2

So, managed to get the generator from workshop and put it in. I did not have the right gasket so I had to make one for myself (between cover and alternator) but now it's there and all systems (well almost) are go.

- idle current 28mA when alarm is active, doors locked
- idle ~300mA when door/trunk/hatch is open
- voltmeter is pretty much close to 14v
- charging voltage when engine runs is 13.8

So it's all good, right? Well, this gets eventually back to our original problem - the #1 fuse. What can be seen is that each time central locks are operated when all wires are connected leads to burnt #1 fuse. Solenoid at drivers' door seems to operate, trunk release works, sunroof motor works... so it must be co-passanger's door that is causing the fuse #1 to burn. I'll investigate it later - now it's time to.. DRIVE!