Shark repaint
#31
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Dan, how many pigments were in the recipe when you had the Turq paint mixed? As I recall you were there for several hours.
#32
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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#33
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I am considering having my rear bumper repainted. So glad I have a Black car. Basic Black is classic. IIRC also our black cars and the guards red cars are not clear coat system but rather lacquer.
#34
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I assume you mean after someone has completely disassembled the car, filled, sanded, taped and readied for primer? That also would assume someone else putting it all back together after the painter painted the disassembled part.
Short of that, I cannot imagine a very very good paintjob for under 3 grand.
Short of that, I cannot imagine a very very good paintjob for under 3 grand.
#35
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For my 89 blue I have been quoted at around $6500.00
Sand, mask, tape and clear, nothing else. Shop I have used handles several local dealer repairs as well as some very high end cars. As a return client I know that they are meticulous and will do a job right. If I wanted the '89 pulled apart it would be closer to 10K w/out a doubt.
Michael
Sand, mask, tape and clear, nothing else. Shop I have used handles several local dealer repairs as well as some very high end cars. As a return client I know that they are meticulous and will do a job right. If I wanted the '89 pulled apart it would be closer to 10K w/out a doubt.
Michael
#36
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I'm pretty sure Sean was referring to my red GT being a damn nice job for $2k. He's a little off, the final price came in just about $2300. For that, I got a 8/10 job where Sean and I did most all the dis-assembly and re-assembly of the bumpers, hood trim, gutter inserts, etc. We did not remove the doors, the hatch, or the sunroof. We did take the rear windows out, and I removed the wing, and the plastic panels down near the fender wells. My painter had to repair several scrapes, and do a modest amount of fill and sanding. He has a Mexican that does most of the prep work pretty cheap, and he oversees it all, then does the prime, sand, prime, sand, color and clear then buff.
He is meticulous about edge taping, and his work shows. He has a way of doing it that pushes the rubber back so he can get fresh paint where it will overlap from most of the taped edges. It's kind of an art which he learned taping and painting aircraft where you often don't get to remove panels. If a flight control is removed, it has to be installed by an A&P so they avoid that as much as they can.
I've had him paint three cars, and one plane, and all of them came out very nice. He uses only PPG materials, so if you want anything else, he's not the guy. He'll do all the removals and installs you tell him to, but that raises the price about $1000 or more, depending on how far you strip it. for an 8/10 job, I would say only the bumpers need to come off, and maybe the rear windows, and the lower door trim.
He is meticulous about edge taping, and his work shows. He has a way of doing it that pushes the rubber back so he can get fresh paint where it will overlap from most of the taped edges. It's kind of an art which he learned taping and painting aircraft where you often don't get to remove panels. If a flight control is removed, it has to be installed by an A&P so they avoid that as much as they can.
I've had him paint three cars, and one plane, and all of them came out very nice. He uses only PPG materials, so if you want anything else, he's not the guy. He'll do all the removals and installs you tell him to, but that raises the price about $1000 or more, depending on how far you strip it. for an 8/10 job, I would say only the bumpers need to come off, and maybe the rear windows, and the lower door trim.
#38
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Tim,
You might want to check with Kevin Michael, a 928 Owner who has done a lot of 928 painting. Including a lot of complete cars (just completed one for D. Taylor of MD recently) Kevin lives near Gettysburg PA. He did the hood, driver's door and two outside mirrors on my black '94, and they are indistinguishable from the other paint which is original (75K miles). Removed a few very small door dings on the door, and block sanded everything (to primer as I recall) before painting.
Since the '94 is base/clear, and the remaining paint was in excellent condition, he lightly wet sanded (3000 grit as I recall) the remainder of the car, then hand polished it. Looks great when clean (as a black car does). This was about 3 years ago and the cost was a little less than $2K. He had the car for about 6 weeks. I think he may give a discount to 928 Owners Club members
He currently has his '87 928 for sale on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/s4-/1...orcev4exp=true
Gary Knox
928 Owners Club charter member and current Treasurer
You might want to check with Kevin Michael, a 928 Owner who has done a lot of 928 painting. Including a lot of complete cars (just completed one for D. Taylor of MD recently) Kevin lives near Gettysburg PA. He did the hood, driver's door and two outside mirrors on my black '94, and they are indistinguishable from the other paint which is original (75K miles). Removed a few very small door dings on the door, and block sanded everything (to primer as I recall) before painting.
Since the '94 is base/clear, and the remaining paint was in excellent condition, he lightly wet sanded (3000 grit as I recall) the remainder of the car, then hand polished it. Looks great when clean (as a black car does). This was about 3 years ago and the cost was a little less than $2K. He had the car for about 6 weeks. I think he may give a discount to 928 Owners Club members
He currently has his '87 928 for sale on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/s4-/1...orcev4exp=true
Gary Knox
928 Owners Club charter member and current Treasurer
#41
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I am a professional body/paint guy. Let me tell you all from first hand experience.. These cars are very difficult to paint. It isn't the hardest car I've ever disassembled/reassembled, but it is high ranking. For example, R&I (remove & install) work is particularly tricky with the doors and around the windshield trim. It is VERY difficult to remove that stuff without damaging it. The trim is of high quality; "made to fit" as some would say. There aren't plastic clips holding these bits on as seen on cheaper, domestic cars. The car is built like a fortress! The trim around the door glass has a section, up by the mirror, that makes about 120 degree turn. That section is riveted on to the door shell. ![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
I can't emphasize how important being patient and taking your time with taking it apart really is.
There are too many variables associated to estimate the final bill. How rough is the car? How much body work involved? This directly correlates to the final bill as it will determine how much primer and/or filler associated. Premium fillers run $50 a gallon. Glazing putty isn't cheap either. A good urethane primer will be about $300 for a gallon, including all components. Then you get to topcoats where there is a wide variety of choices. Using Glasurit, which is a top-of-the-line German paint brand, you could easily spend $1500-$2500 in topcoats. The price of basecoat varies on vehicle color. For example, red is much higher than white or black. There are many options on clear. My favorite is Glasurit 923-450. A gallon is about $300 not including hardener and reducer and it mixes 2:1:10%, so the other ingredients add up. I would estimate a sprayable gallon to cost about $500.
Most 928s need minimal bodywork. They don't beat up easy. So assuming mostly just paint flaws, I probably wouldn't price the job under $5k. About 65% of that cost would cover materials and I would not dare r&i, repair, and repaint an entire 928 for under $2k, for labor. That's as cheap as I could do it. Of course, the owner has other options to explore with regard to materials. I would recommend Glasurit for two reasons. First, it's the OE brand on most of our 928s. Secondly, with fresh paint, it would stand out easily against any brand new car with factory paint. You'd have the slickest car around.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
I can't emphasize how important being patient and taking your time with taking it apart really is.
There are too many variables associated to estimate the final bill. How rough is the car? How much body work involved? This directly correlates to the final bill as it will determine how much primer and/or filler associated. Premium fillers run $50 a gallon. Glazing putty isn't cheap either. A good urethane primer will be about $300 for a gallon, including all components. Then you get to topcoats where there is a wide variety of choices. Using Glasurit, which is a top-of-the-line German paint brand, you could easily spend $1500-$2500 in topcoats. The price of basecoat varies on vehicle color. For example, red is much higher than white or black. There are many options on clear. My favorite is Glasurit 923-450. A gallon is about $300 not including hardener and reducer and it mixes 2:1:10%, so the other ingredients add up. I would estimate a sprayable gallon to cost about $500.
Most 928s need minimal bodywork. They don't beat up easy. So assuming mostly just paint flaws, I probably wouldn't price the job under $5k. About 65% of that cost would cover materials and I would not dare r&i, repair, and repaint an entire 928 for under $2k, for labor. That's as cheap as I could do it. Of course, the owner has other options to explore with regard to materials. I would recommend Glasurit for two reasons. First, it's the OE brand on most of our 928s. Secondly, with fresh paint, it would stand out easily against any brand new car with factory paint. You'd have the slickest car around.