Shark repaint
09-07-2012, 02:40 AM
#16
Rob, nice, always been a bit envious of you and that car. 
09-07-2012, 02:43 AM
#17
Archive Gatekeeper
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I just had a great photographer that day...
09-07-2012, 02:48 AM
#18
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Wow! On a 928? That is SUPER cheap. I'd price old pickups like that all day long, but not a 928. A 928 requires an incredible amount of time and attention. There's no quick way to do it, and do it right. I could probably do it in a full week, assembled and buffed, if I literally rolled out of bed and hit it hard every day with no distractions along the way. You know how time consuming mechanical duties are on a 928 are by comparison to a normal car. It's no different with the 928 body.
But hey, it's all worth it in the end for the driving experience.
But hey, it's all worth it in the end for the driving experience.
09-07-2012, 02:57 AM
#19
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Just as a data point, the PO of my GTS had it repainted in Portland, OR in 2006. Kept the original color, removed the rub strips, filled in the rear hatch wiper motor holes, and replaced all the weatherstripping.
Subtotals:
$1537 in paint (Spies-Hecker Midnight Blue Metallic and Sekkens)
$4256 in weatherstripping, replacement parts, trim, and bodywork
$5116 in labor
Total $ 10,911. Is that too much? Dunno, and maybe he paid the Porsche tax, but they did a nice job.
Subtotals:
$1537 in paint (Spies-Hecker Midnight Blue Metallic and Sekkens)
$4256 in weatherstripping, replacement parts, trim, and bodywork
$5116 in labor
Total $ 10,911. Is that too much? Dunno, and maybe he paid the Porsche tax, but they did a nice job.
09-07-2012, 04:37 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Paint cost could vary widely. Body shops seem to get about 2/3 the hourly rate as a mechanical shop-
IE: $80/ hr vs $120. Next variable is what you would settle for. There is a big difference between a scuff & shoot and a full blown glass out, trim off stripped to bare metal job. There is probably around 100- 120 hours labor (or more) for a full all out job like Rob's car has + materials.
Above all choose a shop/ painter with a solid reputation. Sadly, there are a lot of flakes that will take the car in get it part way apart & stall
out.
If you can do some disassembly & re assembly yourself you can save money.
Go to some street rod & low rider shows- some of their paintwork is excellent- shop before you decide. Good luck.
IE: $80/ hr vs $120. Next variable is what you would settle for. There is a big difference between a scuff & shoot and a full blown glass out, trim off stripped to bare metal job. There is probably around 100- 120 hours labor (or more) for a full all out job like Rob's car has + materials.
Above all choose a shop/ painter with a solid reputation. Sadly, there are a lot of flakes that will take the car in get it part way apart & stall
out.
If you can do some disassembly & re assembly yourself you can save money.
Go to some street rod & low rider shows- some of their paintwork is excellent- shop before you decide. Good luck.
09-07-2012, 10:17 AM
#21
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And anyone who stripped a 928 to metal ought to be shot! That's what you do with old muscle cars that rust out. Not a Porsche with perfectly good E coat protecting its galvanized steel. Once stripped, you've now removed factory corrosion protect you simply can't restore.
09-07-2012, 11:43 AM
#23
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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I spent almost $3000 for Glasurit paint products alone on the Turquoise Metallic car.
A.Embry speaks and sounds very much like Ron Ruff of European Collision in Downey, CA (SoCal resident 928 body and paint expert). This means he is a consummate professional and accepts only excellent outcomes.
To me, the difference between an 8/10 or a 10/10 is not noticeable from 3 feet. The 10/10 shows in the places you can't see, like in the upper wheel well sections. Did the painter refresh the textured anti-corrosion sections before primer and then paint? All the external surfaces on a 8/10 car should look the same as on a 10/10 car. I can't see how you can get a "good" paint job (7/10) for much less than $10k. This is what Rob has on his beautiful Midnight Blue GTS. It looks like a 10/10 in pics and up close. It is not concours. Even my car with the crazy amount of repair/body/paint to a very high standard would be considered an 8/10, perhaps a 9/10.
A.Embry speaks and sounds very much like Ron Ruff of European Collision in Downey, CA (SoCal resident 928 body and paint expert). This means he is a consummate professional and accepts only excellent outcomes.
To me, the difference between an 8/10 or a 10/10 is not noticeable from 3 feet. The 10/10 shows in the places you can't see, like in the upper wheel well sections. Did the painter refresh the textured anti-corrosion sections before primer and then paint? All the external surfaces on a 8/10 car should look the same as on a 10/10 car. I can't see how you can get a "good" paint job (7/10) for much less than $10k. This is what Rob has on his beautiful Midnight Blue GTS. It looks like a 10/10 in pics and up close. It is not concours. Even my car with the crazy amount of repair/body/paint to a very high standard would be considered an 8/10, perhaps a 9/10.
09-07-2012, 11:53 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
I spent almost $3000 for Glasurit paint products alone on the Turquoise Metallic car.
A.Embry speaks and sounds very much like Ron Ruff of European Collision in Downey, CA (SoCal resident 928 body and paint expert). This means he is a consummate professional and accepts only excellent outcomes.
To me, the difference between an 8/10 or a 10/10 is not noticeable from 3 feet. The 10/10 shows in the places you can't see, like in the upper wheel well sections. Did the painter refresh the textured anti-corrosion sections before primer and then paint? All the external surfaces on a 8/10 car should look the same as on a 10/10 car. I can't see how you can get a "good" paint job (7/10) for much less than $10k. This is what Rob has on his beautiful Midnight Blue GTS. It looks like a 10/10 in pics and up close. It is not concours. Even my car with the crazy amount of repair/body/paint to a very high standard would be considered an 8/10, perhaps a 9/10.
A.Embry speaks and sounds very much like Ron Ruff of European Collision in Downey, CA (SoCal resident 928 body and paint expert). This means he is a consummate professional and accepts only excellent outcomes.
To me, the difference between an 8/10 or a 10/10 is not noticeable from 3 feet. The 10/10 shows in the places you can't see, like in the upper wheel well sections. Did the painter refresh the textured anti-corrosion sections before primer and then paint? All the external surfaces on a 8/10 car should look the same as on a 10/10 car. I can't see how you can get a "good" paint job (7/10) for much less than $10k. This is what Rob has on his beautiful Midnight Blue GTS. It looks like a 10/10 in pics and up close. It is not concours. Even my car with the crazy amount of repair/body/paint to a very high standard would be considered an 8/10, perhaps a 9/10.
09-07-2012, 12:30 PM
#25
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Have had 2 cars painted in the last 2 years. Changed the color on the GTS, and in this case the body shop did it all including shaving most everything including the sunroof at a cost of $ 7,200. On the 80, we also changed the color. We did much of the work ourselves this time. We stripped, dissasembled, and reaseembled. The paint & body shop fixed a few dings, rust spots around the rear qtr windows, shaved most everything that could be shaved and then painted it for $ 5,000. T
09-07-2012, 01:24 PM
#27
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Glasurit is simply BASF's refinish line. It's the complex colors that are driving up the materials' costs.
Dean's post hits the crux, the labor and trim are what drive the costs. This makes each job (& quote) dramatically different.
A very, very good job can be had <$3K.
Dean's post hits the crux, the labor and trim are what drive the costs. This makes each job (& quote) dramatically different.
A very, very good job can be had <$3K.
09-07-2012, 02:11 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Well, it's not really that simple actually. Basf sells R-M and Limco also. Glasurit is their premier brand. The Germans refuse to make products such as spot putty and spot primer and other short cutting goodies featuring the Glasurit name simply because they feel these tactics undermine quality. Literally everyone else sells these products. So if you're a lacquer hacker, well, Glasurit probably isn't the product for you.
You get what you pay for with chemicals. Sure, you can get other quality paint products. Be careful of what you buy though. Just because it says PPG, a name we're all familiar with, doesn't make it a quality or durable product. You, absolutely, get what you pay for.
You get what you pay for with chemicals. Sure, you can get other quality paint products. Be careful of what you buy though. Just because it says PPG, a name we're all familiar with, doesn't make it a quality or durable product. You, absolutely, get what you pay for.
09-07-2012, 02:56 PM
#29
Maybe this is another whole thread but what are the differences in the various paints/suppliers... what should one look for if doing this "at home" etc?.. I'd like to get the GT repainted one of these days (not looking for concours but something with a deep durable look).....
09-07-2012, 03:36 PM
#30
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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Tom, not just from this forum or Ron Ruff, I have been told by a number of people that Glasurit paint products are what you want on a car. One of them is a good friend who sold PPG auto/aircraft and manufacturing paint for ten years.
Glasurit is expensive, and perhaps the complex colors, like Turquoise Metallic, add significant cost. So might depend on what color you want. To be sure when fully cured it is about as tough as the original paint put on our cars.
Additionally, the Glasurit urethane product is NLA in some states. Some states require water based paint. Be sure to check with your local paint shop to confirm. WA is pretty eco-friendly so it may not be available there.
https://www.basfrefinish.com/cgi-bin...oductsGlasurit
Glasurit is expensive, and perhaps the complex colors, like Turquoise Metallic, add significant cost. So might depend on what color you want. To be sure when fully cured it is about as tough as the original paint put on our cars.
Additionally, the Glasurit urethane product is NLA in some states. Some states require water based paint. Be sure to check with your local paint shop to confirm. WA is pretty eco-friendly so it may not be available there.
https://www.basfrefinish.com/cgi-bin...oductsGlasurit