Ducman82

Trying to figure out a good way to box up this filter an get flow from the other side of the fire wall. Was thinking of cutting the fire wall lip about 10 inch wide, 3 inch down and make the box have a "scoop" that meets up with that to grab air.........

Thoughts?

PorKen

Lift the back end of the hood. Cold air in at the windshield, radiator air out the sides, over the fenders.

That's what I want to do, but I didn't figure out a good way to do it with the stock hinges.
OTOH, you may not need the fancy linkage hinges if you lift the hood high enough.


I took the hood seal out, as you did, but put some door edge protector over it, in the thought that air likes to flow around a curved surface, better.


FWIW, there were 928 prototype(s) with hood vents.

Ducman82

i took the seal off with the plastic cover. aligning this hood sucks enough without having the rearend of it up. hummmmmmm

Lizard928

I think you should cut out a long thin strip just below the riveted on aluminium bar and then shroud the filter to there. Reinstall the dip tray and firewall seal.

You could make the filter housing out of anything, fiberglass, aluminium, stainless, inconel, plastics, etc.

Ducman82

inconel, whew, i have lots of that hanging around... :-P under the alum bar... got it.

mark kibort

cant you find flatter tubes to the front of the car? if not, get a stock air box, and vent the entire thing, the length of the air box by cutting the firewall. raising the hood is a HACK job. and for me to say that, you know it has to be bad.

if you look at my air box, i take air from the rear (sealed and cut) as well as the front. Both spots are near equal in pressure at speed for max HP gains and the coldest air with the least restriction to the box, WHICH i have measured with the sunx sensor

danglerb

I've seen a couple cars with air from the cowl, and the "trick" is two parts; the engine moves relative to the cowl so you need a fair amount of flex, and you still need to seal the hot engine compartment air from the cowl air. Other than a hack job, running "better" tubes to the front seems a lot more appealing.

Ducman82

i think i have room for a tube under the spider legs above the throttle linkage. so make a few bents, go under the spider, out the front and figure something out.

tonight is remove the damn clutch due to a bad main seal... URG. but i got the passenger header and related parts off in about 30 min. clutch pack in next... whew!

what size xyz is the fly wheel bolts again?

Lizard928

I've a better idea, remove that filter, and run a tube over to the passenger fender area and pass it through the frame rail and route it in the fender over to the front and suck from around the headlight bucket.

Ducman82

trying to see where i can cut a big enough hole.

OBehave

While researching different avenues for an airbox for the Hanson race car I came across this pic. I'm sure a modified version of this could be used even if you retain A/C- heater box.

toofast928

Duc before you cut up the bulk head why not take a air probe and actually measure the air surrounding the air filter. May not be worth the trouble modifying.

Ducman82

the Intake Air temp sensor gets pretty damn hot.... 100 plus. this engine bay (as we all know) is basiclly an oven.

i could always route a tube up front like this....

jcorenman

Key words, those. The cowl is a great place to draw cold air, but even removing the rubber gasket opens up a path for fire to get from the engine bay to the passenger compartment, with only a plastic HVAC airbox in the way.

What are you trying to accomplish? The stock intake and filter arrangement isn't too bad.
EDIT: Never mind, you've got those funny coils in the way...

17prospective buyer

Inconel... well, as they say on here; it has to be military grade before anyone on here even considers it.