Ducman82

so while im tuning this hybrid build, im keeping and eye on the oil. right now it does have a dull gray look to it with some ultra fine shine to it. rings and rod bearings are the only new parts (not counting head work etc).

when i rebuild old mopars the oil always looked like crap for awhile after a build. i plan on changing this oil before i take it to the dyno to get tuned in a few weeks. then again, how long should i wait to do a full power run? hard to tune a drivable car on a dyno with doing some heavy pulls.....

im not to worried, just wondered what other peoples experiences are

Mrmerlin

for a fresh engine use dino oil, Valvoline is good oil, swap out the filter after 50 miles, swap out the oil and filter after 500 miles, use fresh dino oil and a new filter , start testing/tuning

namasgt

I would change the oil after 30 minutes of running for a new engine, let it idle at ~1500 RPM after it warms up. Then I take it for a drive, get on it a few times for about 20 to 30 miles and then drain it again. With fresh filter each time.

Ducman82

good to know. how many miles should i wait to do a dyno run? she is running ok right now, but not something i would want to drive to far from home till she is tuned better... damned if i do , damned if i don't kinda situation.

i will change the oil tomorrow . running castrol 20w50 dino blood right now. after a few thousand ill switch to synthetic.

namasgt

If you follow What I said I would run it another few hundred miles before dyno on normal oil, however I would not be light on the pedal. Valvoline is good stuff, They have a normal 20W50 and a non synthetic racing version. For the dyno run I would use Torco TR-1 20W50.

hacker-pschorr

http://joegibbsdriven.com/products/e...uilder/br.html

Jim Devine

If there is any chance you might have dumped excess fuel into the motor while calibrating your injection, change the oil! Save the filter & cut it open to see if everything looks good.

Ducman82

Oil smells fine. But that's the plan anyway.

Rob Edwards

Jake, which assembly lube did you use? In May 2010 when we started up the stroker, we ran it at 2000 rpm till it got up to temp (15 minutes or so), then did enough base tuning to get it to pass smog, got smogged, then changed the filter and topped up the oil (Torco TR-1 20W50), maybe 20-30 miles of driving. We cut the filter to make sure there was nothing in it, there wasn't.

After 2 months, (maybe 500 miles?) I did a complete oil and filter change - the pic below shows the drained oil- scared the crap out of me, there's this fine gray-ish metallic sheen in the oil, looks like the motor oil equivalent of miso soup. You can see the 'ripples' of gray in the pic. Oil analysis (and Greg, btw) said it was nothing to worry about.

So I guess that it's some schmutz in the assembly lube? But certainly nothing to worry about, just keep an eye on the filter at every change. I got a nice longacre filter cutter, works a treat.

Ducman82

i used Redline assembly lube

i can see it becoming that..... still has that "clean" oil sheen to it but def has the gray/sparkles.

i plan to get some filters tomorrow and most castrol, maybe valvoline. then tune a little and change it again this week. im just wondering how long i should run it before i dyno tune her.

Rob Edwards

Immediately after Greg fired my stroker for the first time, he ran it up to 3000 rpm for 15 minutes, mostly to check for leaks and to make sure the thermostat was opening.

Then it went right on the dyno for baseline sharktuning. (We started with a stock 90 GT map)

This was 24 hours and 0 miles after the first time we fired the stroker:



And 2 weeks and less than 200 miles after that:

G8RB8

schmutz = molybdenum