vanster

Hi Roger
Will you be selling rears only since I bought fronts about a year ago?


van

hacker-pschorr

Will you sell them revalved?

What does Bilstein typically charge for that?

This is tempting....I would love to duplicate the handing of my 79 with my 81. I only know the Koni Reds on my 79 were installed 20ish years ago with cut down S4 springs. Stock sway bars. I was told they came off an S4 (did S4's come with Koni reds?)

How do the Bilsteins work with the Eibach's? Some reason I bought a couple sets a few years ago

IcemanG17

I was seriously considering sell them at a set......but since they are custom heim joints its not really cost effective unless you have a race car (like you do)

Bilstein can revalve anyway you like...I think its $65 per shock.

Mine are at
http://performanceshock.com/service-...s-and-rebuilds

Getting revalved.....plus some repairs.....I am upgrading from 600lb front springs to 800lb front springs with valving to match...I'm gonna stay with 400lb rears....

BY FAR the cost effective option for a great handling race 928....stock Bilsteins with eibachs -1.5 coils.....this is what I had on my Estate with stock sway bars plus adjustable Ott links in the rear....it worked really well.....I only reached the limit of this setup once I ran 275 slicks all around, that requires a larger front sway bar.... Street tires or R comps were just fine (up to 245 all around)

justaguy

Roger
Good news. Please keep up the excellent work.

MGW-Fla

Ok then, I've wanted Bilsteins(& Eibachs) for my '85 for a long time. I've read now several times that using the Eibachs with the Bilsteins is probably best suited for the track, not as good for street driving.

I only drive my '85 a few times a month on the street. I've done two DE's earlier this year & hope to do another before years end. I also have done some autocrossing too. So at the most it'd be a few DEs & autocrosses a year with the occasional street driving a few times a month around town.

I believe my shark has the original stock Boges & springs, that are now going on 28 yrs old. Or if anything has been replaced, it was a long time ago. I added DR's front sway bar a few years ago.

Brian would you think for my useage of my '85, I'd do best with the Bilsteins & my 28 yr old stock springs? And I'm not opposed to the Konis either.

Arnoud

Greats news (as some local Finnish 928 enthusiast correctly reminds me at every occasion that I could really do with new shocks)!

ammonman

I have Bilsteins with Eibach progressive springs from 928 Intl. all around and love the handling on the street. Some have said they are bouncy but I haven't noticed it. This may be due to having my Bilsteins rebuilt back to stock specs before installing the Eibachs. Suspension is tight and firm just up to the edge of being harsh without going over.

Mike

the flyin' scotsman

I have stock bilstiens with stock eibachs on my S4 and the ride is too rough for spirited daily driving.

I understand the shocks work well with new OEM springs.

As comparo my GTS rides on sport Konis and stock springs.........much much better.

IcemanG17

It all depends on how stiff of a ride you can tolerate.....for a street car I think that bilsteins on stock springs is about perfect......bilsteins with full length eibachs is just too bouncy for my taste......and they also are a bit too soft for a full track car too.....Sean's euro racer has this setup and its just too soft....too much roll-dive-squat for my taste..... However cut the eibachs -1.5 coils and it works really well.......just like how my estate was setup

Arnoud

Upcoming 2012/2013 winter project, thanks towards Roger & his staff for super fast service (it literally took more working days to go through the Finnish side customs clearance process, than the actual ordering and arriving of these goods in Finland)!

I will keep using my standard stock OEM springs, and will report - once installed - how this combination works for me compared to current situation all stock components.

Vilhuer

Do spring plates look like they need to be plated before installation? If they do I would start things immediatelly. In case you want to limit downtime I have bowder coated GTS springs ready to go and maybe everything you need for rear end if you give yours as exchange. Or did you get new stuff for everywhere.

Arnoud

Yep: I will get those (and other parts) plated, and check-up on which other parts (if anything) are best to get replaced - before starting with this job. No huge rush, and best to do it once and do/get it right that first time.

Alan

df

Alan

Malcolm - Hah Zébulon! yes its Magic !

...but how many had a clue what you were on about...

Alan

Arnoud

Two (2) weekends ago Erkka and myself changed my rear shocks, as per WSM chapter 42-14 till 42-18d: "Removing and installing spring strut" procedure.
No big (nor small) hammers nor any grinders had to be used, almost needless to write that with Erkka having done this procedure half a dozen times before me on other 928's helped more than a lot!

Hereby a few pictures and some side comments, perhaps helpful for other Rennlisters who will do this type of job. Having 4 hands (when not having a lift) and enough tools around is rather essential, and do take at least a full weekend into account if you also want to do half decent cleaning (but not any near to "Rob Edwards kind of perfect clean") of the parts that come off and need to get back on again.

Front nut on pivot pin removed as per the WSM point 3. method, before that it's thread was cleaned with a wire brush + some heat applied so to further clean up the thread. Worked like a charm!


Pulling out the pivot pin, the simple (well: once you know) "trick" used was to use more and more wrenches in between - so to widen the gap more and more:


Old standard factory Boge shocks + springs removed, measuring about 31 cm from top- to bottom-plates:


Make sure to put a very thin layer of silver = aluminum paste on the top part of the shock pin (starting just underneath the end of the top-thread and ending where the circlip rests on) + on the threads the adjuster nut moves on:


The top of the mounting plate showing left overs of the original factory elastic seal. We did not renewed this, and as all goes back to exactly the same place: it fitted back fine (in a recent other thread both Hilton and Rob Edwards informed about possibly using some 3M-caulk product for renewing this, if so wanted).


New Bilstein shock assembly ready to go back in:


Make sure to also put a very thin layer of silver = aluminum paste on the pivot pin (= very long bolt) and the inside of the end-washers and concave washers + all inside parts the pivot pin slides through + on the lower spring plate (when moving the adjuster nut for changing the ride height, you will be very happy you did so ).


Finnish sauna wood style ;-) so to keep the rear disk assembly in place, while putting the pivot pin back in. On a very serious note: DO of course always use proper jack stands + additional wheels under the car for proper safety, no car is worth dying for!


Pivot pin going in. This was one smooth operation: allignment of all parts was only a matter of a minute or so, although using 3 to 4 hands in the process to push and keep everything on it's exact place was essential.


After driving and settling, I measured with 13 threads on both side from the bottom (= 19,5 mm) a ride high of around 162 mm. Then adjusting to 20 threads on both sides (= 30,0 mm) and again driving and settling, I measure a ride high of 172 mm:


Measuring "method a la Erkka": using a large 140 mm bolt + 40mm adjuster screw for measuring on the WSM described rear place (here showing rear driver side):


132 mm, plus


40 mm makes 172 mm (WSM 44-05 states 173 +/- 10 mm for rear axle height) = more than good enough (with the old shocks and adjusters the car ride was only 143 mm, which I did not like handling and other wise at all).


All done and the difference in ride was and is immediately much improved: all is tight and no longer "bouncy", very much worth doing this. Can't wait to get the fronts done too!