Is my TT finally giving up? Answer: Yes.
09-30-2012, 02:02 AM
#91
Three Wheelin'
The 944, including s2 and 968 don't have a dampener, but they use 4 tt bearings. Perhaps the 928 was engineered to a higher refinement level that 928 owners would expect, but 944 owners weren't concerned about. Have any 928 tts been built with 4 bearings and no dampener?
09-30-2012, 06:03 AM
#92
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Patrick: Seems like teh TT is a good candidate. It's hard to tell w/o completely removing it. I did some maneuvers, disconnecting flexplate at each end once at a time to isolate the noise to the TT, but I don't recommend anyone do this unless you know exactly what you are doing.
Eric: TTs have been rebuilt w/o dampers. Some seem to be fine that way. I think there have been some 3 bearing rebuilds, but they are rare or being done with Constantine's "SuperBearings".
Eric: TTs have been rebuilt w/o dampers. Some seem to be fine that way. I think there have been some 3 bearing rebuilds, but they are rare or being done with Constantine's "SuperBearings".
09-30-2012, 11:11 PM
#93
Track Day
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill,
I just disconnected the flex plate from the fly wheel.... moved the clamp back 4mms and then reconnected the flex plate to the fly wheel... put some lock tight on the bolt and a little on the spine and torqued it to 65lb...the whining sound is gone!... appears jamming the flex-plate inward toward the engine causes that power steeling pump failing sound. Almost like the teeth on the RPM sensor wheel are pushed against something and causing that sound..... could not get a really good look....so this is only a guess.
While I had the plate disconnected from the flywheel.... I started the engine to see how much vibration was coming from the engine... appears that most of my previous vibration is from the engine... the 3000 rpm point is a high vibration zone..... I assume connecting the TT will only amplify the vibration from the engine.
Last time I looked at the shaft position... it was not pulled out that much... this must have just given way during my trip.... The bolt on the clamp was pretty easy to turn... so I can only assume the spine did not need to have much help moving forward.
Question; does your engine run perfect when the plate is disconnected? Does your engine vibrate at all when the flex-plate is disconnected?
Patrick
I just disconnected the flex plate from the fly wheel.... moved the clamp back 4mms and then reconnected the flex plate to the fly wheel... put some lock tight on the bolt and a little on the spine and torqued it to 65lb...the whining sound is gone!... appears jamming the flex-plate inward toward the engine causes that power steeling pump failing sound. Almost like the teeth on the RPM sensor wheel are pushed against something and causing that sound..... could not get a really good look....so this is only a guess.
While I had the plate disconnected from the flywheel.... I started the engine to see how much vibration was coming from the engine... appears that most of my previous vibration is from the engine... the 3000 rpm point is a high vibration zone..... I assume connecting the TT will only amplify the vibration from the engine.
Last time I looked at the shaft position... it was not pulled out that much... this must have just given way during my trip.... The bolt on the clamp was pretty easy to turn... so I can only assume the spine did not need to have much help moving forward.
Question; does your engine run perfect when the plate is disconnected? Does your engine vibrate at all when the flex-plate is disconnected?
Patrick
Last edited by p9281990; 10-01-2012 at 12:22 AM.
12-31-2014, 10:40 AM
#94
Team Owner
EDIT I posted about pinning the Damper by adding a rivet to the TT on either side of the damper .
This isnt a good idea when rebuild time comes around, as the rivet when drilled out will then fall into the TT and thus make the bearing carriers be pushed sideways and cause them to bend.
The correct way to pin the damper is to add a screw from the outside this way the screw is removed and the damper and carrier can then be pushed out .
Sorry for the misinformation
This isnt a good idea when rebuild time comes around, as the rivet when drilled out will then fall into the TT and thus make the bearing carriers be pushed sideways and cause them to bend.
The correct way to pin the damper is to add a screw from the outside this way the screw is removed and the damper and carrier can then be pushed out .
Sorry for the misinformation
