No 5th gear --- 79 OB
11-13-2012, 08:45 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
11-13-2012, 09:27 PM
#33
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The syncro does not do the work to "hold" the slider onto the actual gear. The teeth on the engaging teeth and the slider both have a "negative angle", which keep the two "locked" together".
Either the shifter is not "pushing" the slider far enough to fully engage, or there is severe grief on the actual 5th gear teeth. The grinding noise is the syncro, but keep in mind that the part of the slider that "touches" the syncro wears also.
The actual "labor" to do these gearboxes is not all that tough...if you are familiar with tools and have some idea of what you are looking at.
Knowing what is bad, what made it go bad, what other parts are involved, and how long pieces will last is the real "art" to rebuilding these transmissions. There's many, many stories about people having these transmissions rebuilt "multiple times" and still not having them "shift" properly.
Either the shifter is not "pushing" the slider far enough to fully engage, or there is severe grief on the actual 5th gear teeth. The grinding noise is the syncro, but keep in mind that the part of the slider that "touches" the syncro wears also.
The actual "labor" to do these gearboxes is not all that tough...if you are familiar with tools and have some idea of what you are looking at.
Knowing what is bad, what made it go bad, what other parts are involved, and how long pieces will last is the real "art" to rebuilding these transmissions. There's many, many stories about people having these transmissions rebuilt "multiple times" and still not having them "shift" properly.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
Last edited by GregBBRD; 11-13-2012 at 10:04 PM.
11-13-2012, 10:07 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
I spent some time last night and this morning reading the WSM on manual transmission removal. I am not sure if I have the skill set or the tools and equipment to do this properly. I may try to remove the manual transmission from the 78 Euro parts car just for practice. I guess I cannot really screw it up, or if I do it is no $ loss.
11-15-2013, 09:26 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
A year later, I have removed the entire interior from this car and have moved to a new home.
I was unable to engage ANY gear so I trailered it to the new home. During that process I noticed how soft the brake pedal was. Terribly soft.
I was hoping that the 5th gear issue might be related to the fluid/hydraulic system. So that lead me to bleed the brakes and then move to the slave cylinder.
The brakes went very smoothly and was a pretty straight forward job. I used the Harbor Freight version of the mighty vac.
When I moved underneath I used the same technique with the slave but with very different results. I used 15# vacuum but when I opened the bleeder screw nothing happened. No fluid moved what so ever. I opened the screw several complete turns and still nothing happened. I was at a loss so I opened the driver door and worked the clutch with my hand. I had to use force in both directions. The result was the mighty vac being blown off and brake fluid sprayed on the floor.
After being discouraged I just started cleaning up. After doing so I decided to crank her up and see if there was any change in the operation of the clutch. I was able to engage first gear ( on jack stands) but nothing else. The clutch felt good but I could only get first gear.
After all that story..... my question is twofold.
1. Should the slave bleed differently than the brakes, regardless of the technique used to bleed?
2. Is it possible that I could just bleed the clutch using the pedal and possibly gain more use?
I was unable to engage ANY gear so I trailered it to the new home. During that process I noticed how soft the brake pedal was. Terribly soft.
I was hoping that the 5th gear issue might be related to the fluid/hydraulic system. So that lead me to bleed the brakes and then move to the slave cylinder.
The brakes went very smoothly and was a pretty straight forward job. I used the Harbor Freight version of the mighty vac.
When I moved underneath I used the same technique with the slave but with very different results. I used 15# vacuum but when I opened the bleeder screw nothing happened. No fluid moved what so ever. I opened the screw several complete turns and still nothing happened. I was at a loss so I opened the driver door and worked the clutch with my hand. I had to use force in both directions. The result was the mighty vac being blown off and brake fluid sprayed on the floor.
After being discouraged I just started cleaning up. After doing so I decided to crank her up and see if there was any change in the operation of the clutch. I was able to engage first gear ( on jack stands) but nothing else. The clutch felt good but I could only get first gear.
After all that story..... my question is twofold.
1. Should the slave bleed differently than the brakes, regardless of the technique used to bleed?
2. Is it possible that I could just bleed the clutch using the pedal and possibly gain more use?
11-16-2013, 03:46 AM
#37
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Take a good look at the slave bleed nipple - the holes that let fluid through when bleeding are small and easily bunged up with rust - You've proved (messily) that fluid is getting to the slave cylinder and out of the hole the bleed nipple screws into. Now find a 3mm approx twist drill and using fingers run it down thehole in the centre of the bleed screw to clear it out, then use an 1mm approx twist drill (fingers only) to clear out the holes in the sides of the bleed nipple. Then it should bleed properly.
11-16-2013, 08:52 AM
#38
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Take a good look at the slave bleed nipple - the holes that let fluid through when bleeding are small and easily bunged up with rust - You've proved (messily) that fluid is getting to the slave cylinder and out of the hole the bleed nipple screws into. Now find a 3mm approx twist drill and using fingers run it down thehole in the centre of the bleed screw to clear it out, then use an 1mm approx twist drill (fingers only) to clear out the holes in the sides of the bleed nipple. Then it should bleed properly.
Both replies are great. Thank you. I may try the drill bit route first and see if I can free it up. I am assuming that it is safe to remove the bleeder screw completely to accomplish this.?.?.?
11-16-2013, 09:58 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for checking on me today, Ron. It may be a few more days before I get back downstairs to play with it and will probably be in stages. Clean on day and then put back on and bleed another.
Not enough time in the day.
Not enough time in the day.
