the flyin' scotsman

As mentioned, during my 6000km return trip to OCIC my GTS had a small issue with the clutch pedal that was identified as the clutch master going south.

With all the great minds at Witchita we soon had the car diagnosed and repaired sufficiently to make the return trip and the parts ordered from Roger to fully effect repair at home.

Today I did the quick change of the master cylinder internals and clutch stop by Porken as outlined to me at OCIC:

remove rod from clutch pedal
evacuate brake fluid from reservoir
remove circlip and washer from clutch master
extract master piston with seals followed by the return spring
remove the above listed clutch master parts from the new assembly
install new master spring, piston w/seals, washer and circlip but dont seal yet
refill reservoir w/clean brake fluid
under the pedals again allow the master piston to come out the master enough to allow fluid to flow and 'burp' the air out (bleed master). do this step enough that its all fluid then push the piston home and seal the system with the new washer and circlip
place rod w/bellows in master and reconnect other end to clutch pedal mechanism

check clutch pedal for operation......all good top up fluid, clean any spill and test drive

I got a good clutch after 'burping' ~9 times and shall bleed entire system this weekend.

Thx to all the OCIC folks who helped with special mention to Herman for his tools and offer of his spare master and extra special mention to Tom M who not only informed me of the process but did the work in Witchita.....cheers buddy.

oups59

I decided to change mine instead of changing only the internals. The main reason was replacing the blue hose also.

Now I will be good for another 10 years (new master, new slave, new blue hose, new clutch assy)

the flyin' scotsman

I read that thread Luc but didnt understand the details of how the master and blue hose were replaced.

If you could advise I'll revisit this fall/winter.........thx

Tom. M

Congrats on getting it done...you should be good to go for a while ...

I recommend bleeding the clutch master from the inside at least once a year since most I've seen have been caked up with residue of the seals, dirt, brake fluid etc..which will prematurely wear the seals..flushing from the inside clears that up and can prolong the life of the piston seals ...

SQLGuy

I installed a PKlutch a couple of days ago. While I was in there, I adjusted the linkage rod to remove the excess free play that had been present. Travel of the clutch pedal is now half (or maybe even less than half) of what it was. Takes a little bit of getting used to, but I definitely like the result.

By the way, when installing one of these, or replacing the master cylinder, there are, at least on the GTS, some 15mm or so spacers on the bolts. Be careful these don't fall behind the carpet and need to be fished out. I also found it useful to have a longer bolt of the same thread pitch to screw into one of the holes and pull the MC back up against the firewall so the other bolt could be started more easily.

the flyin' scotsman

Good point re. spacers and longer bolt.........even just changing the internals of the master and install PKlutch its easy to get the master out of position and/or misplace the spacers making a 5 min job much much longer.

The PKlutch works gr8.

oups59

Take a look at this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=29501

The important part is to remove the 2 lower bolts and loosen the 2 upper one of the brake booster to be able to remove the MC.

hb4

Malcolm,
Congrats on getting the clutch ship-shape!. And kudos to Tom M. for his skill and patience at OCIC doing the temporary repairs. He's one of our PNW all-stars.