ReefShark

Hey guys, I am back ... again. The shark has been sickly setting in the garage for a few months. It started about 1k-1.2k miles after I had the timing belt replaced. It started missing, and growing progressively worst till under any acceleration it would backfire, resume normal for 50-60 ft. and backfire again as long as I was accelerating. When I could get up to speed and let up to cruise, it's like running normal. I changed distributor caps (2) and rotors. Now it seems to be missing, or not hitting on all cylinders. I am also hearing an electrical clicking as if its jumping fire somewhere, but don't see any evidense in the dark. I have a minor concern about the new dist. caps, and the plug wires... which unfortunately are origional. A local friend and owner, and Rennlist member suggest perhaps jumped timing. Sounds very logical. I had the timing belt replaced at Eurasion Auto in B'ham and I know they do good work but now I am concerned how well they check the tensioner. Immediate plan is too check the timing belt for correct timing. I would appreciate any and all ideas at what I might be looking at. Thanks in advance.

Landseer

1st, is the motor still in time? ie, at TDC are the cam gear notches aligned on their respective pointers? Requires covers to be removed I think on your 85. They should align when harmonic balancer is at O, else, do one more crank rotation and check again. (cam gears are either aligned with notches or exacly 180 deg out each time the harmonic balancer on the crank hits 0)


Are both rotors spinning in the distributors?
They are connected by a little midget timing belt that can break.
One is slaved to the other.

ReefShark

I will be checking the timing tomorrow hopefully. Both rotors are spinning. Installed a new mini-belt about 6 months ago. I'll know more in the next couple of days after I check the timing. Thanks and I will be updating asa timing is checked.

DougM

Since you have a dual dizzy, dual coil car, I would check some easy stuff first. Make sure both that sets are getting good spark. Pull a plug terminating from each cap and see if any is fouling. Check the plug wire connections at the caps and coils. If all is good, then proceed to the timing checks.

ReefShark

Got the car into the shop today and started tinkering about all the timing areas, both rotors are turning. I did find that one of the coils negative ground was not connected. Could this cause any problems like I am having? Also pulled the timing belt covers and at TDC I am off one tooth on each pulley. I have one of the little spec books and in there in calls for 6 degrees ATDC. My rennlist friend who was helping called his mechanic and he said 0, TDC. However, the difference might allows the tooth marks to line up... SO anyone know for sure which timing is correct?
Also, shouldn't the crank always be turned clockwise to line up the marks? Thanks in advance.

ALso didn't get to test the plugs yet, didn't read the idea till tonight, but I'll work that in.

ReefShark

Can someone post Roger's number here please?

Dean_Fuller

http://s287999742.e-shop.info/

ReefShark

Continued on Dean_Fuller thread. Thanks

Mrmerlin

since you now have two threads discussing the same thing ,
why not close this one,
to do that click on go advanced ,
then look for the box that says close thread, or PM a moderator to do it.

It makes it hard to follow your progress with two threads running

Mrmerlin

from the other thread

OK I just found the other thread you started about this issue,
it sounds like you have a good handle on the timing marks,
If your hearing a snapping noise then you have a hi tension leak,
just because you cant see it doesnt mean it not there.

Next thing to do is take a compression test,
since this all started after the belt was changed possibly the mechanic damaged the valves.

Other things to consider if your not using BOSCH ignition caps and rotors, then they need to be swapped out ,

I have found more than a few cost cutter ignition parts being used where the engine would have misfires,
installing Bosch caps and rotors restored performance.

That said if the wires are old then they need to be swapped out,
get the BERU set from ROGER ,yes they are lots of cash,
but they will make the engine run for a long time without fail.

Dont know how many sets of new wires I have replaced due to cost cutter installations.
\
If the compression test comes back as good then the ignition system is the place to focus.

There is also a possibility that the ignition wires themselves are not in the correct order,
yes its easy to miswire on the dual dizzy.

Also make sure that the intake boots are all connected properly,
a vacuum leak will also cause running issues.

If the MAF is old,
have it sent out for a rebuild,
as the Euro cars require a perfect MAF to run

ReefShark

After checking that the timing is right on, I am still reassembling and have not progressed any further. Will finish up this evening and attach the coil ground wire and see what we got. Still gonna replace the wires from Roger, will be ordering those and other items tomorrow. Closing this thread in lieu of Dean_Fuller thread. Thanks