A/C Fitting question
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
A/C Fitting question
I found a leak...at the low side R134a fitting.
I need to replace something here..duh..but does the R134 adaptor over the OEM R12 valve has its own seal, or is it really the schrader valve in the R12 fitting below that, that needs replaced.
I spose I'll do both of course. just in case...just thought I would ask.
I need to replace something here..duh..but does the R134 adaptor over the OEM R12 valve has its own seal, or is it really the schrader valve in the R12 fitting below that, that needs replaced.
I spose I'll do both of course. just in case...just thought I would ask.
Race Car
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It depends on what type of R134a fitting it is. There are those that have a plunger that can depress the existing R12 valve core, and there are ones with their own valve core and the old R12 valve core must be removed.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
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I've seen both types of adapters..some are just a screw on adapter that extends the reach of the old schrader valve...and others require you to remove the schrader valve inner part and then the new adapter is screwed on (with sealant around the threads)..this adapter will have its own new valve.
I had a bad high side schrader valve and had to evacuate the whole system, change out the valve (did both)..and of course the low side broke and took an extra 1/2 hour to remove and replace..
I had a bad high side schrader valve and had to evacuate the whole system, change out the valve (did both)..and of course the low side broke and took an extra 1/2 hour to remove and replace..
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Go to NAPA and get a quality one. I've dealt enough with the cheap ones that if one comes in with them, the owner has two choices.
Take it back to the shop that put them on, or let me change them to some decent ones.
Take it back to the shop that put them on, or let me change them to some decent ones.
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The AC schraeders have different seals vs tire valves, and amazingly the current ones have green HNBR seals. The adapters tend to be one-time-use pieces, with a squish-once seal where the adapter sits on the tapered end of the R-12 fitting. I like the ones that have their own Schraeder valves, but you MUST take the old Schraeders out for them to work. I've seen the original valves damaged when the adapter is installed, with the pin rolled into the flare end. Kinda spoils the seal there.
Buy good adapters, stay away from the bargain bits at the chain POLAPS places. You'll be happier.
Buy good adapters, stay away from the bargain bits at the chain POLAPS places. You'll be happier.
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Chronic Tool Dropper
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It's there for folks who don't know to take the old valves out first I guess. You'll need to put new correct schraeders if if you keep them at all, plus what's in the new adapter.
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Jeff--
I've been trying to leave a pump on service cars overnight, after an initial gross-leak vacuum-depletion check. Seems like more moisture and air can be boiled out if left on longer. The extra cost of the power for the 3/4 HP vacuum pump motor overnight is not so much. With gas ballast closed, it's a little noisier but what the heck, it's out in the garage... Cheap insurance.
I've been trying to leave a pump on service cars overnight, after an initial gross-leak vacuum-depletion check. Seems like more moisture and air can be boiled out if left on longer. The extra cost of the power for the 3/4 HP vacuum pump motor overnight is not so much. With gas ballast closed, it's a little noisier but what the heck, it's out in the garage... Cheap insurance.
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Jeff--
I've been trying to leave a pump on service cars overnight, after an initial gross-leak vacuum-depletion check. Seems like more moisture and air can be boiled out if left on longer. The extra cost of the power for the 3/4 HP vacuum pump motor overnight is not so much. With gas ballast closed, it's a little noisier but what the heck, it's out in the garage... Cheap insurance.
I've been trying to leave a pump on service cars overnight, after an initial gross-leak vacuum-depletion check. Seems like more moisture and air can be boiled out if left on longer. The extra cost of the power for the 3/4 HP vacuum pump motor overnight is not so much. With gas ballast closed, it's a little noisier but what the heck, it's out in the garage... Cheap insurance.
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This is a good read about the vacuum pump.
They mention changing the pump oil frequently- see page 5. It's
available at any hvac supply. Makes sense.
I have the same Robinair 15600 & I think it's
the pump that is in the Robinair evac/ charge stations, so you should get the same results as
if you took it to a shop. Probably better, they usually don't maintain their equip like this.
http://www.airclean.us/uploads/Robinair.pdf
This is a good read too:
http://www.robinair.com/acsolutions/...m/acvacuum.php
They mention changing the pump oil frequently- see page 5. It's
available at any hvac supply. Makes sense.
I have the same Robinair 15600 & I think it's
the pump that is in the Robinair evac/ charge stations, so you should get the same results as
if you took it to a shop. Probably better, they usually don't maintain their equip like this.
http://www.airclean.us/uploads/Robinair.pdf
This is a good read too:
http://www.robinair.com/acsolutions/...m/acvacuum.php
Last edited by Jim Devine; Jul 31, 2012 at 02:45 PM. Reason: add
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Mine ran for at least an hour yesterday late evening (cold outside)..and went out here 12hrs later, to find just _barely_...noticeable rise on the gauge. I half expected that due to being a LOT warmer out now, sun on the hardware under the hood, and a few specs of moisture finally boiling out. Letting it run another 30min now.
FWIW...also got a 30lb can of 134 for $75 last night. That was nice.
FWIW...also got a 30lb can of 134 for $75 last night. That was nice.