Mechanic tells me that I need a pass. side power window motor. Car is early 86. What years will interchange? Any other porsche models use same motor? Thanks

 

motor moved from 8 tooth to 10 tooth in 84 till 95. 928 624 014 03 is the part number so id imagine its model specific.

 

928Intl has the whole shebang (motor and transmission) used for $150, or Roger's got a Mercedes replacement motor for $100-ish, IIRC.

http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...624%20014%2003

 

I just used the one from Roger and it fit perfectly. Thanks Roger. He also has some tips.

 

Thanks, I'll check with Roger. Let me pick your brains a minute. The pass. side window was slower than the driv side for some time. The pass was also slightly misaligned and would bump at the top of the window track and not "fit" into the top groove without a mild push out. Occasionally when it would bump, the window went dead for some time, a few hours later or the next day it would work again. The strange part was that when the pass side window was inop. it also made the driver side inop. Does this make sense to anyone? Is the diagnosis of needing a new pass motorseem correct? Thank in advance

 

I did some more searching and found that a Saab 900 window motor (51.821037) is supposed to be a replacement. Can anyone confirm this? THX

 

you should try to repair it first. I've repaired several, and saved lots of money that way. They are easy to fix. There is at least one good thread on this somewhere here.

 

Yes, as long as the windings aren't open, repair may be easier than you would think.

Now Ed, get out of here and go post where you belong!

 

keep working, keep working.

 

I have an 86.5 and my drivers side quit working. I was able to disassemble it to fix it. It took several attempts. After cleaning everything including the brushes, I took it over to a spare battery and it still didn't work. So, I used a drill connected to the upper shaft and ran it on high for about 20 seconds. It has worked perfectlly ever since. Much better than it did when I first bought it. Now, I completely disassembled mine and cleaned it thoroughly. I am not electrical savy enough to know why the drill worked so well.

Good luck,

 

Can you clarify what you mean? Maybe with a picture?

 

I am sorry, I didn't take any pics. When you pull the regulator, you will see that there are two pieces connected by two bolts. One section holds the electrical stuff, and the other is basically the transmission. The electrical part is basically a small electric motor, that ilcludes brushes, magnets that are stuck to the inside and a wound core with a shaft in the middle that everything is wound around. After cleaning everything with CRC to within an inch of its life, I disassembled it, removed everything except for the magnets. The little cap with the brushes come right off the top, you may have to tap it a little. Now, you have to check that cap for broken wires. If you find one, then that is probably your problem. After cleaning mine, it just didn't work anymore. the electrical part didn't. So, I figured that I had left something out of alignment. So, after you put the brush cap back on, there is a short part of the shaft that goes back into the transmission. That is where I connected the drill and ran it for a few seconds. I think that re-seated the brushes so that the electrical motor could work again.

Sorry to be so long winded but as long as the electrical part is intact, there is no reason for it not to work. They are over $100.00 and so easy to work on, it is silly not to try.