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Old 06-28-2012 | 12:43 AM
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Guys,
Tonight has not been a good electrical night. All my illumination to the center console went dark (I've done recent LED work to the HVAC controller, so I know where to go with this). My Third Brake Light decided to fail. And, I have a Relay issue.

The Relay issue is confounding me.
For the first time I have Relay clicking. About every 5 secs. from Relay XVIII, the Flap Relay. The relay was hot. This is when the car is off. I've already pulled fuse 23 a long time ago for I want the flaps max open all the time (only a 'warm weather' car up here). No recent work at the CE panel. The only other item with the engine cooling system is the coolant reservoir level sensor is on its way out - I will hit a bump and it lights up. Temp gauge works fine. I run at the first white line. I am very meticulous, and the coolant levels are perfect. I have no leaks, but was considering prophylactically replacing the reservoir (original) and lines even before the sensor started to go.
Another point - there was a '53' relay in position XVIII. According to the Wiring Diagram I note the relay is slightly different from a '53' relay in that there is what looks like another ground connection.

Thanks in Advance for any wisdom or instruction.
Craig
Old 06-28-2012 | 01:09 AM
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I don't think these all are a single issue, need to solve each on its own.
Old 06-28-2012 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by davek9
I don't think these all are a single issue, need to solve each on its own.
Absolutely agree.
The illumination and brake light issue are straightforward.

I just don't know what to make of this relay thing...

I was just venting in a quiet kind of way.
Old 06-28-2012 | 10:23 AM
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Bump.
Getting a little low.
Old 06-28-2012 | 07:08 PM
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You're right. The relay that goes in socket XVIII should have an 87a connection: normally closed. If you pull the relay, you should measure continuity between 87a and 30. If there is no 87a, or it's not continuous with 30 with the relay deenergized, then you need a new relay there.
Old 06-28-2012 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SQLGuy
You're right. The relay that goes in socket XVIII should have an 87a connection: normally closed. If you pull the relay, you should measure continuity between 87a and 30. If there is no 87a, or it's not continuous with 30 with the relay deenergized, then you need a new relay there.
Thanks SQL.
By inspection it is a standard 4 pronged '53'.
I just wonder why it never misbehaved before ?
Old 06-29-2012 | 03:20 PM
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Guys,
Any issues with running the car without relay XVIII, Flap Relay, until I get the appropriate relay ?
I already have had fuse 23 pulled.
Thanks.
Craig
Old 06-30-2012 | 12:11 AM
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Don't think that there should be a problem...
Old 06-30-2012 | 12:22 AM
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Thanks Wally.
The Brake Light issue was dealt with...
The illumination issue was not just a Black/Blue defect off the rheostat as I had initially surmised before getting into it... now this is getting complicated.
Hopefully the relay XVIII issue won't be complicated when replaced with the appropriate one.



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