Electric Problems ...need HELP !
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got the new card in the mail today. Looks to be NOS ... beautiful condition. Installed it and I am still having issues.
No Tachometer
No speedometer
temp gauge pegs
Gas gauge pegs
no oil pressure
no volts
Engine oil light is on
Brake light on
Is there a way to check if there is any power to the plugs?
I'm working on it now. At least I KNOW the card is good now.
No Tachometer
No speedometer
temp gauge pegs
Gas gauge pegs
no oil pressure
no volts
Engine oil light is on
Brake light on
Is there a way to check if there is any power to the plugs?
I'm working on it now. At least I KNOW the card is good now.
#18
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dean, have you inspected the 14 pin connector in the r-side engine bay?
Open it up, both sides and check all the solder joints at the pin terminals.
Open it up, both sides and check all the solder joints at the pin terminals.
#19
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Dean, A suggestion from me. The symptoms look like one of the plugs is not attached.
To check only connect one at a time. See what goes on or off. There is also a chance that two of the plugs are being connected to the wrong sockets on the PCB or possibly it is reversed if that is possible. If you cam identify which plug is giving you grief then you can focus on that.
If you look at the wiring diagram for the MY 80. The connectors to the plugs are labeled L R M with numbers
No Tachometer 5m/3M/7R
No speedometer 1L/8M/11R
temp gauge pegs 10L/8M/11R
Gas gauge pegs 4L/8M/11R
no oil pressure 5M/6R
no volts 5M/ 1M/ 7R
Engine oil light is on 5M /6R
Brake light on
Volts is an easy one to check as it only has an active an an earth. 5M is the active and 7R is the earth.
You can check this by putting a meter or a globe into 5M and the other to an earth.
Every one of the above circuits has 5M-8M to Fuse 12 in common
5M is an active that goes via Fuse 12
8M is an active that goes via Fuse 12
7R is an earth
11R is an earth.
From this point without studying the circuit diagram you are not going to get very far. Hope this helps.
To check only connect one at a time. See what goes on or off. There is also a chance that two of the plugs are being connected to the wrong sockets on the PCB or possibly it is reversed if that is possible. If you cam identify which plug is giving you grief then you can focus on that.
If you look at the wiring diagram for the MY 80. The connectors to the plugs are labeled L R M with numbers
No Tachometer 5m/3M/7R
No speedometer 1L/8M/11R
temp gauge pegs 10L/8M/11R
Gas gauge pegs 4L/8M/11R
no oil pressure 5M/6R
no volts 5M/ 1M/ 7R
Engine oil light is on 5M /6R
Brake light on
Volts is an easy one to check as it only has an active an an earth. 5M is the active and 7R is the earth.
You can check this by putting a meter or a globe into 5M and the other to an earth.
Every one of the above circuits has 5M-8M to Fuse 12 in common
5M is an active that goes via Fuse 12
8M is an active that goes via Fuse 12
7R is an earth
11R is an earth.
From this point without studying the circuit diagram you are not going to get very far. Hope this helps.
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay guys...its all fixed except speedo ( no movement) and gas gauge ( no movement). Every thing else looks to be working. Still working on the two. thanks for the feedback. VERY helpful.
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just realized I have no taillights, side markers or driving lights. Headlights work but do no retract now. Turn signals work. Seems like when I fix one thing something else stops working.
#23
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Where's your bulb control module? (do early cars have one?)
#24
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The head lights not retracting can be caused by a faulty ignition switch. The speedometer is controlled by the magnetic pick up on the back of the transmission. The gas gauge is controled from the tank. Since both are at the back of the car I would investigate there
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well all the tail lights, side markers and headlights that retract WERE working before I FIXED most of the cluster. I am thinking I did something...what is a different problem. I used electrical cleaner on several plugs and fuse clips. There is a bulb controller just above the fuse panel but I did not touch it. Last night I also noticed that when I put the high beams on the cluster responds as it should but the right head light goes out and left goes high beam. When I go back to regular beam the headlights are good except no retract. I am wondering if all the in and out with the headlight pod switch...I did something there. Oh well...I will be back at it real soon.
#27
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had this sort of problem last year. Turned out that on the actual socket side of the headlamp switch one of the female clips had been pushed out of the socket. I tracked it down with the circuit diagram, but I wished that I had just looked first. I pushed all the sockets down into the spade clips on the light switch and problem was cured. I hope I remember to do it next time I work on the pod in the track car.
#28
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Be sure to disconnect the power when playing with the pod switches. There are a lot of fuses, relays and connections in the car. One would not think it would be necessary to add fuses to the switches. It is possible to short out a switch and make it unusable.