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Electric Problems ...need HELP !

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Old 07-05-2012, 04:44 PM
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depami
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Anything to report Dean?
Old 07-05-2012, 07:16 PM
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Dean_Fuller
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Got the new card in the mail today. Looks to be NOS ... beautiful condition. Installed it and I am still having issues.

No Tachometer
No speedometer
temp gauge pegs
Gas gauge pegs
no oil pressure
no volts
Engine oil light is on
Brake light on

Is there a way to check if there is any power to the plugs?

I'm working on it now. At least I KNOW the card is good now.
Old 07-05-2012, 09:29 PM
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Jadz928
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Dean, have you inspected the 14 pin connector in the r-side engine bay?
Open it up, both sides and check all the solder joints at the pin terminals.
Old 07-05-2012, 09:33 PM
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Paul Dortkamp
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Hi Dean, A suggestion from me. The symptoms look like one of the plugs is not attached.
To check only connect one at a time. See what goes on or off. There is also a chance that two of the plugs are being connected to the wrong sockets on the PCB or possibly it is reversed if that is possible. If you cam identify which plug is giving you grief then you can focus on that.

If you look at the wiring diagram for the MY 80. The connectors to the plugs are labeled L R M with numbers

No Tachometer 5m/3M/7R
No speedometer 1L/8M/11R
temp gauge pegs 10L/8M/11R
Gas gauge pegs 4L/8M/11R
no oil pressure 5M/6R
no volts 5M/ 1M/ 7R
Engine oil light is on 5M /6R
Brake light on

Volts is an easy one to check as it only has an active an an earth. 5M is the active and 7R is the earth.

You can check this by putting a meter or a globe into 5M and the other to an earth.


Every one of the above circuits has 5M-8M to Fuse 12 in common

5M is an active that goes via Fuse 12
8M is an active that goes via Fuse 12
7R is an earth
11R is an earth.

From this point without studying the circuit diagram you are not going to get very far. Hope this helps.
Old 07-06-2012, 04:13 PM
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Dean_Fuller
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Okay guys...its all fixed except speedo ( no movement) and gas gauge ( no movement). Every thing else looks to be working. Still working on the two. thanks for the feedback. VERY helpful.
Old 07-06-2012, 08:34 PM
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Dean_Fuller
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Just realized I have no taillights, side markers or driving lights. Headlights work but do no retract now. Turn signals work. Seems like when I fix one thing something else stops working.
Old 07-06-2012, 08:43 PM
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Jadz928
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Oh come on.... tell us what happened.
Old 07-06-2012, 09:33 PM
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Hilton
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Originally Posted by Dean_Fuller
Just realized I have no taillights, side markers or driving lights. Headlights work but do no retract now. Turn signals work. Seems like when I fix one thing something else stops working.
I can produce most of those symptoms by not plugging in the bulb control unit which on my cars is attached to the passenger parcel shelf (although that may be a RHD thing).

Where's your bulb control module? (do early cars have one?)
Old 07-07-2012, 04:20 AM
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Podguy
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The head lights not retracting can be caused by a faulty ignition switch. The speedometer is controlled by the magnetic pick up on the back of the transmission. The gas gauge is controled from the tank. Since both are at the back of the car I would investigate there
Old 07-07-2012, 11:03 AM
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Well all the tail lights, side markers and headlights that retract WERE working before I FIXED most of the cluster. I am thinking I did something...what is a different problem. I used electrical cleaner on several plugs and fuse clips. There is a bulb controller just above the fuse panel but I did not touch it. Last night I also noticed that when I put the high beams on the cluster responds as it should but the right head light goes out and left goes high beam. When I go back to regular beam the headlights are good except no retract. I am wondering if all the in and out with the headlight pod switch...I did something there. Oh well...I will be back at it real soon.
Old 07-07-2012, 11:05 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jadz928
Oh come on.... tell us what happened.
I wish I knew.
Old 07-18-2012, 02:54 AM
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Paul Dortkamp
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I had this sort of problem last year. Turned out that on the actual socket side of the headlamp switch one of the female clips had been pushed out of the socket. I tracked it down with the circuit diagram, but I wished that I had just looked first. I pushed all the sockets down into the spade clips on the light switch and problem was cured. I hope I remember to do it next time I work on the pod in the track car.
Old 07-18-2012, 04:26 AM
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Be sure to disconnect the power when playing with the pod switches. There are a lot of fuses, relays and connections in the car. One would not think it would be necessary to add fuses to the switches. It is possible to short out a switch and make it unusable.



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