Clicking in CE Panel & Wont Start
06-23-2012, 10:54 AM
#16
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Spread the word... 
Clean the battery connections, including the smaller wires on the battery positive clamp. Charge the battery. If it won't hold a charge, replace with new. Fuel pump, fuel injection, fans , run directly from the battery through those smaller wires, some through relays.
A failing LH can show differing symptoms. Some have clicking injectors and run way rich, don't respond to MAF changes or temp-II changes. LH also runs the fuel pump, but only when it receives rank position sensor pulses via the EZK (ignition) controller. So the relay noise, MAF insensitivity, runs when cold but won't rev under load, etc, all point to LH crash.
Clean the battery connections, including the smaller wires on the battery positive clamp. Charge the battery. If it won't hold a charge, replace with new. Fuel pump, fuel injection, fans , run directly from the battery through those smaller wires, some through relays.
A failing LH can show differing symptoms. Some have clicking injectors and run way rich, don't respond to MAF changes or temp-II changes. LH also runs the fuel pump, but only when it receives rank position sensor pulses via the EZK (ignition) controller. So the relay noise, MAF insensitivity, runs when cold but won't rev under load, etc, all point to LH crash.
I will put the battery on a slow charge today, clean and check the connections to the positive cable and hope for the best. If the battery does not take, I will buy a new one. What is the largest/most powerful battery that will fit in the compartment that you would recommend? I will probably get the battery from either Walmart or Sears. I have used both and have been happy with both. Walmart is closer if I have to return it for any reason so I am leaning towards theirs...
06-23-2012, 10:59 AM
#17
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Once I get it running (God willing, soon) I will check the alternator. Unrelated, but funny thing is when I was under the car for the first time a few days ago, I happened to notice a loose metal pipe going above the A/C compressor and it turned out the pipe is not even connected. I remember the original owner telling me the only thing that was not working when he sold the car was the sunroof (which I fixed) and the A/C. Maybe I found the culprit there...
06-23-2012, 12:41 PM
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Ok, we just went out and my fiancee turned the key on and tried to start the car by accident and tried to shut it off after the car was cranking and the car alarm/horn started going off. This never happened before. The horn at the steering wheel does not even work with my MOMO steering wheel. I swear this car has a mind of it's own! She tried to start the car to shut the alarm off and the car cranked but would not start. Horn/alarm stopped while cranking, but as soon as she shut the key off the alarm started up again. I tried hitting the alarm button on the dash and it stood on. I had to pull the positive cable off the battery to reset it.
Anyway, after that...I had her key on and the humming sound definitely did not come from the fuel pump, it was coming from up front...I kept poking around and found it coming from a rubber boot right up front in the engine bay before the radiator. It never functioned before I started cleaning the connections to the relays. What is this?
Anyway, after that...I had her key on and the humming sound definitely did not come from the fuel pump, it was coming from up front...I kept poking around and found it coming from a rubber boot right up front in the engine bay before the radiator. It never functioned before I started cleaning the connections to the relays. What is this?
06-23-2012, 12:45 PM
#20
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Isn't that the cover for the **** to manually open the slats that open and close based on how hot the engine is??? They removed those in later S4 years. Or it might be the cover for the **** to manually crank the headlights up...
06-23-2012, 12:49 PM
#21
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I will check again but it appears to have a thick power cable going to it. If you touch it while someone is powering the key on, it has enough vibration to startle you.
06-23-2012, 12:50 PM
#22
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That is the radiator flap system motor. Keep an eye on the flaps in front of the radiator. They should be closed when the engine is cold, partly open when the engine is warm, and fully open when the engine is hot or the A/C is operating.
If the system fails, you can pull Fuse #23 and manually open the flaps.
If the system fails, you can pull Fuse #23 and manually open the flaps.
06-23-2012, 01:35 PM
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Okay, we went out and checked the flaps. Upon further inspection the motor is hooked up to a metal nipple/ flap which was not connected to the lower nipple/ flap. It appeared that a piece was missing. I found the piece wedged in the left side bottom by the A/C condenser? Anyway I put it back on and the flaps are in the closed position and the humming stopped. Good find, but not going to help me get the car started, lol.
06-23-2012, 01:47 PM
#25
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So the alarm triggered when you tried to start the car. Mine will do that when the battery is too low. If yours has been on a trickle charger overnight, give it a bit more time, but it seems likely the battery is not taking a charge. I would get a new battery. There is no "largest" battery. It takes a specific size. The choices would vary in cold cranking amps and warranty. I've had good luck with Duralast (Autozone) batteries.
Let us know what happens once you get the new battery.
Let us know what happens once you get the new battery.
06-23-2012, 01:51 PM
#26
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Okay, we went out and checked the flaps. Upon further inspection the motor is hooked up to a metal nipple/ flap which was not connected to the lower nipple/ flap. It appeared that a piece was missing. I found the piece wedged in the left side bottom by the A/C condenser? Anyway I put it back on and the flaps are in the closed position and the humming stopped. Good find, but not going to help me get the car started, lol.
06-23-2012, 02:48 PM
#28
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Autozone is a good idea for a battery too. I actually have to go there today to get a radiator hose for my work van which overheated yesterday due to a leaking hose.
06-23-2012, 02:51 PM
#29
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This car is such a MindF%$#. It looks amazing!!!! Yet it's obvious the previous owners did not take care of this car at all. I have already worked through so many little bugs that the car had and still have more to go obviously. I cant wait to work out all the issues as I have never driven the car or had it running smooth yet.
06-23-2012, 04:05 PM
#30
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I've been using NAPA batteries for the last 2-3 changes in cars. In a search I did a couple of years ago, I found they were made by the US plant that makes Deka batteries. I buy the 84 month warranty battery, keep a maintainer connected to it if I'm not going to be driving that 928 for a few days, and have had excellent success with them.
Gary Knox
'89 manual
'94 auto
Gary Knox
'89 manual
'94 auto