mickster

Trust me 85-86.5 do need checking too.

jeff spahn

Constantine. Are you saying (well as a CYA you most likely would) that we should check by releasing the super clamp and see if there is movement or we should just do a visual check. Releasing and re tightening the super clamp is not a 2 minute job.

Black Sea RD

That was our initial design study.

Problem is that the drive shaft end vibrated in the flywheel coupler and needs to be pinned at it's engine end.

That necessitated more designing and the costs of the parts needed to make this work started to rise.

We defaulted to designing a better clamp instead.

Cheers,

Black Sea RD

Visual check to ensure the flex plate is nice and flat with no forward bowing.

Paint marks placed on the drive shaft at the clamp edges can help to make this a quick check.

Putting a small flat edge against the clamp on the flex plate to ensure flatness would help too.

Cheers,

Dads928

Thanks guys, The picture posted by Dave looks exactly like mine so I am happy. My flex plate did move however when it was released so I will be adding an extra clamp. I do like the 4 bolt idea so that I can check it more easily.

928 at last

I've got a slightly used PKlamp I'm willing to part with.....worked fine, but when I did the TT I went with the Black Sea Super Clamp.

FredR

One question that I would pose is whether anyone has ever seen one of the accepted mods fail [i.e. slip]?

I can inderstand the loctite solution failing if it is not done with the surfaces spotlessly degreased.

I have used the Loctite solution for 10 years on two incarnations and neither has failed to date [touch wood]. In my case I could tell when the original clamp on my late S4 slipped as the drive line vibrated at 3050 rpm. Indeed it has reached a point where I do not even check the paint marks any more [albeit I should] but of course one day I may be shedding tears [heaven forbid].

I do check if I have the car in the shop and on a lift as I will shortly to fit the Delrin bushes on my steering rack and other wyaait's but it will be the first time in some 4 years.

Regards

Fred

elgreco

one in new york too.

Jimd70

I own an'85 euro A/T that I bought from Steve Cattaneo 2 years ago. I just tried to release my flex plate today and it did rebound a little. I don't think I was able to make the flywheel to move back and forth. I did do an oil change at the same time and noticed some aluminum particles in the oil filter. I only hope the damage is minimal. I took it out for a test drive +/- 10 miles city and highway. The car ran much better than it did prior to releasing the allen screw on the clamp. It still sounds as though it's bogging a little and the check engine light came on at idle when stopped and at low speed when I lifted off the gas pedal. My concerns are as follows: If I switch to the super clamp, will it stop future damage? Are they very difficult to install? I only have ramps and jackstands. Am I better off bringing it in? I see that it's HIGHLY advisable to release it at EVERY oil change. Is this do-able with limited clearance? any help is appreciated. I DON'T WANT TO BE THE NEXT WITH CATASTROPHIC FAILURE!!!

Leon Speed

Welcome. First of all you need to measure the crank axial play. You will need a dial caliper and a crow bar. If you search for a flex plate thread by Bill Ball you will find a step by ste guide including pics.

Jimd70

I used Bill Ball's guide. I used a simple caliper to measure the visible grooves/teeth on the shaft. I was able to relieve some pressure, but not all of it. I was afraid to crank hard on the flywheel. Should I be? Is there a secret to releasing the pressure easily? I used a flat bar, but got minimal results as I was using ramps and jack stands, minimal clearance and leverage. I just want to be sure to not worsen the problem. Any advice on installing the superclamp?

PorKen

3mm is 'standard' after even a few weeks of driving.

It may have vacuum leak(s) and/or need a MAF rebuild. ROW 84-86 16V have no O2 sensor, and so are more sensitive to MAF degradation/lean running.
There is no CEL on a 928*. If the rpms are dropping too low, the [ ! ] may come on, as the alternator is not charging. Turn up the idle speed.

You can install a PKlamp in an hour or less. Most likely, it will never move again.

Get a set of round style Liftbars for plenty of clearance.



*ROW 16V LH ECUs do have a CEL output, pin #19, which indicates if the MAF is way out of spec and the LH is in 'limp home' mode, but this output is not wired to the pod.

Leon Speed

A flat bar might work. It is weird, but with minimal play you will still hear a 'clunk' when you move the crank to measure end play. You defenitely will need a dial gauge to measure end play correctly. When you say you weren't able to release all pressure, how do you know? When you release the clamp, all tension is released. No experience with the superclamp, others might chime in. But, no good installing a superclamp with a busted engine, so measure end play first before any next steps. Working on ramps and stands, be very careful. A lift would be better.

Black Sea RD

Dear Jimd70,

We would try to find a reputable shop in your area and let them check your crank shaft end play. There might be some on the list who can help advise of a good shop if you give a more exact location of where you live.

This is a very critical measurement to figure out the health of your engine at this time. Depending on what the measurement is will most likely dictate what your next steps should be and before you buy anything else.

By the way, releasing the flex plate at every oil change doesn't do too much except maybe fool the owner in thinking they are doing something good for the car. Our studies have found that tension can begin shortly after the car is driven again after the oil change.

Hope this helps,

Jimd70

I live near Albany,NY. I'll travel as required. I just want to have the peace of mind that I'm not going to seize it up. I did notice that the car ran considerably better, BUT NOT 100%. Other than an idle that was too low, what would cause the oil light to come on? are the PKlamp instructions available too see if its in my realm of capability?