A/C system pressure relief valve???
#16
There are 2 styles of R134a charge port adapters:
1) without it's own schrader valve; this is the economical version, typically aluminum, it has a pin in the center that is 'suppose to' push down on the R12 service port's schrader valve, this design is not reliable
2) with it's own schrader valve; this is better, typically steel with yellow chromate finish, it has it's own schrader valve inside however as Doc pointed out you must remove the schrader valve in the R12 service port before screwing it on; this is the style that Griffiths provides
But, with either valve I have seen on occasion where a poorly made R134a service coupler can damage the valve pin, or someone forgets to pull (screw in) the service port couplers internal pin before attached to the service port.
1) without it's own schrader valve; this is the economical version, typically aluminum, it has a pin in the center that is 'suppose to' push down on the R12 service port's schrader valve, this design is not reliable
2) with it's own schrader valve; this is better, typically steel with yellow chromate finish, it has it's own schrader valve inside however as Doc pointed out you must remove the schrader valve in the R12 service port before screwing it on; this is the style that Griffiths provides
But, with either valve I have seen on occasion where a poorly made R134a service coupler can damage the valve pin, or someone forgets to pull (screw in) the service port couplers internal pin before attached to the service port.
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The car was already converted to R-134a with the correct schrader valves installed. I'm still at a loss as to what happened... I took her out for a 220 mile jog today and the air was ice cold - no more leaking AT ALL... amazing. I'll keep an eye on it, but I'm not "going in" until the air is no longer getting cold...
There are 2 styles of R134a charge port adapters:
1) without it's own schrader valve; this is the economical version, typically aluminum, it has a pin in the center that is 'suppose to' push down on the R12 service port's schrader valve, this design is not reliable
2) with it's own schrader valve; this is better, typically steel with yellow chromate finish, it has it's own schrader valve inside however as Doc pointed out you must remove the schrader valve in the R12 service port before screwing it on; this is the style that Griffiths provides
But, with either valve I have seen on occasion where a poorly made R134a service coupler can damage the valve pin, or someone forgets to pull (screw in) the service port couplers internal pin before attached to the service port.
1) without it's own schrader valve; this is the economical version, typically aluminum, it has a pin in the center that is 'suppose to' push down on the R12 service port's schrader valve, this design is not reliable
2) with it's own schrader valve; this is better, typically steel with yellow chromate finish, it has it's own schrader valve inside however as Doc pointed out you must remove the schrader valve in the R12 service port before screwing it on; this is the style that Griffiths provides
But, with either valve I have seen on occasion where a poorly made R134a service coupler can damage the valve pin, or someone forgets to pull (screw in) the service port couplers internal pin before attached to the service port.
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Still, thank you for all the info and sage advice I know it will come in handy once this problem surfaces again - it will... its just waiting for when I REALLY need the A/C... Until then...