1991 S4 fluids sitting 30+ months
05-04-2012, 01:42 PM
#16
Race Car
Thread Starter
As a guy who just spend $1,500 fixing his PSD, I would at least take off the cover and have a look at the resivoir and see if the fluid is brown (or blue if they used Super Blue). The guidance is flush it every 2 years, but unlike brakes, the PSD has a vent-line at the top of the cap so, the fluid is always exposed to air. Flushing was super easy with the OC's guide.
I may have missed it, but there's the tansaxle too. I recently dumped and filled with Royal Purple and I won't lie, I was expecting to have leaks due to it being synthetic, but 2 months later, no weeping or leaks.
BTW - VERY nice looking car
I may have missed it, but there's the tansaxle too. I recently dumped and filled with Royal Purple and I won't lie, I was expecting to have leaks due to it being synthetic, but 2 months later, no weeping or leaks.
BTW - VERY nice looking car
05-04-2012, 02:40 PM
#17
The Parts Whisperer
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As a guy who just spent $1,500 fixing his PSD (to include slave cylinder and control valve), I would at least take off the cover and have a look at the resivoir and see if the fluid is brown and crappy looking (or blue and crappy if they used Super Blue). The guidance is flush it every 2 years, but unlike brakes, the PSD has a vent-line at the top of the cap so, the fluid is always exposed to air. Flushing was super easy with the OC's guide.
I may have missed it in the thread above, but there's the tansaxle too. I recently dumped and filled mine with Royal Purple and I won't lie, I was expecting to have leaks due to it being synthetic, but 2 months later, no weeping or leaks.
BTW - VERY nice looking car
I may have missed it in the thread above, but there's the tansaxle too. I recently dumped and filled mine with Royal Purple and I won't lie, I was expecting to have leaks due to it being synthetic, but 2 months later, no weeping or leaks.
BTW - VERY nice looking car
05-04-2012, 03:07 PM
#18
Race Car
Thread Starter
Mark thank you for taking the time to reply. I know you have no stake in the car and I hate being a nudge asking these questions.
I truly appreciate it and, as always, you are such a stand up guy.
Best,
Michael
I truly appreciate it and, as always, you are such a stand up guy.
Best,
Michael
05-04-2012, 05:41 PM
#20
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05-04-2012, 06:34 PM
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
A new twist to the car-advice...Need it fast...
Leak is at the water bridge, not at the pump. Will update when I know more..
Last edited by mickster; 05-04-2012 at 07:33 PM.
05-04-2012, 08:02 PM
#22
Team Owner
its possible that the hoses that attach to the bridge have gotten old and now have an internal hole in them,
this hole will come from the small tit thats above each outlet,
NOTE if the tit is high I file it down some .
So to find out you need to remove each hose and inspect the inside of it,
you will see the wear mark and if its cut,
another clue will be if the threads that come out the end of the hose are the color of the coolant then the hose has an internal leak.
NOTE there are 3 hoses that attach to bridge and each outlet has a tit inspect all three the top rad hose can also get wear from the snap ring thats on its outlet
this hole will come from the small tit thats above each outlet,
NOTE if the tit is high I file it down some .
So to find out you need to remove each hose and inspect the inside of it,
you will see the wear mark and if its cut,
another clue will be if the threads that come out the end of the hose are the color of the coolant then the hose has an internal leak.
NOTE there are 3 hoses that attach to bridge and each outlet has a tit inspect all three the top rad hose can also get wear from the snap ring thats on its outlet
05-04-2012, 11:42 PM
#23
Under the Lift
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There is no time limit on the ATF. I change mine (and the filter) every 30K miles; no more, no less. Is there a schedule for changing the power steering ATF? I don't know of any other than when the rack leaks and is replaced. The rest of the stuff is due, so I'd do it, although nothing is urgent. The PSD (brake) fluid tends to be neglected. I just did a flush, probably the first one, on a 91 and chocolate milk came out. So, it's good to hear from Mark that it was done even if years ago.
05-05-2012, 01:40 AM
#25
Excellent advice already given, but the following give some technical info input.
Systems using break fluid are at risk of corrosion, as brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is it is absorbs water, definitively change the brake fluid and the PSD fluid NOW, as both systems are safety related.
ATF, is not hydroscopic, so non use is not all that important. you will note that there is no service interval for steering gear to be serviced, however the Auto Transmission does have a service life. Bill has commented on the steering fluid life, which serves him well.
Coolant can loose it protective properties, anti-corrosive and anti-freezing. In service life is time related i.e. Length of time coolant has been in the system. (different materials used in cooling system and old coolant can loose it protective properties and cause galvanic attack on the less noble metals within the cooling system). Recommend changing now.
Engine oil collects contaminates from the combustion process (even over 1000 miles) and the oil will oxidise over time, even if the engine has not been in use. In this instance it is time dependent, as it has not been filter and may also contain some water. Recommend changing now
In closing I would recommend that you have a full 12 month service undertaken before putting the car into service, as per the Porsche Maintenance Schedule, particularly the brake fluid systems, the cooling system and the engine lube oil. All other fluid systems, such as Auto and transaxle system are distance related.
The Timing Belt should be checked for tension and if is over 5 year old (general consensus of 928 owners), change it and overhaul the tensioner and fill with new oil. WYAIT (if timing belt changed) check the water pump for leakage, if no leakage other than stain from seepage hole and no movement of water pump spindle or smooth turning without slight rumbling what-so-ever, change the WP.
Hope these recommendation help.
Tails, 1990 928S4 Auto
Systems using break fluid are at risk of corrosion, as brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is it is absorbs water, definitively change the brake fluid and the PSD fluid NOW, as both systems are safety related.
ATF, is not hydroscopic, so non use is not all that important. you will note that there is no service interval for steering gear to be serviced, however the Auto Transmission does have a service life. Bill has commented on the steering fluid life, which serves him well.
Coolant can loose it protective properties, anti-corrosive and anti-freezing. In service life is time related i.e. Length of time coolant has been in the system. (different materials used in cooling system and old coolant can loose it protective properties and cause galvanic attack on the less noble metals within the cooling system). Recommend changing now.
Engine oil collects contaminates from the combustion process (even over 1000 miles) and the oil will oxidise over time, even if the engine has not been in use. In this instance it is time dependent, as it has not been filter and may also contain some water. Recommend changing now
In closing I would recommend that you have a full 12 month service undertaken before putting the car into service, as per the Porsche Maintenance Schedule, particularly the brake fluid systems, the cooling system and the engine lube oil. All other fluid systems, such as Auto and transaxle system are distance related.
The Timing Belt should be checked for tension and if is over 5 year old (general consensus of 928 owners), change it and overhaul the tensioner and fill with new oil. WYAIT (if timing belt changed) check the water pump for leakage, if no leakage other than stain from seepage hole and no movement of water pump spindle or smooth turning without slight rumbling what-so-ever, change the WP.
Hope these recommendation help.
Tails, 1990 928S4 Auto
05-05-2012, 02:08 AM
#26
Race Car
Thread Starter
Excellent advice already given, but the following give some technical info input.
Systems using break fluid are at risk of corrosion, as brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is it is absorbs water, definitively change the brake fluid and the PSD fluid NOW, as both systems are safety related.
ATF, is not hydroscopic, so non use is not all that important. you will note that there is no service interval for steering gear to be serviced, however the Auto Transmission does have a service life. Bill has commented on the steering fluid life, which serves him well.
Coolant can loose it protective properties, anti-corrosive and anti-freezing. In service life is time related i.e. Length of time coolant has been in the system. (different materials used in cooling system and old coolant can loose it protective properties and cause galvanic attack on the less noble metals within the cooling system). Recommend changing now.
Engine oil collects contaminates from the combustion process (even over 1000 miles) and the oil will oxidise over time, even if the engine has not been in use. In this instance it is time dependent, as it has not been filter and may also contain some water. Recommend changing now
In closing I would recommend that you have a full 12 month service undertaken before putting the car into service, as per the Porsche Maintenance Schedule, particularly the brake fluid systems, the cooling system and the engine lube oil. All other fluid systems, such as Auto and transaxle system are distance related.
The Timing Belt should be checked for tension and if is over 5 year old (general consensus of 928 owners), change it and overhaul the tensioner and fill with new oil. WYAIT (if timing belt changed) check the water pump for leakage, if no leakage other than stain from seepage hole and no movement of water pump spindle or smooth turning without slight rumbling what-so-ever, change the WP.
Hope these recommendation help.
Tails, 1990 928S4 Auto
Systems using break fluid are at risk of corrosion, as brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is it is absorbs water, definitively change the brake fluid and the PSD fluid NOW, as both systems are safety related.
ATF, is not hydroscopic, so non use is not all that important. you will note that there is no service interval for steering gear to be serviced, however the Auto Transmission does have a service life. Bill has commented on the steering fluid life, which serves him well.
Coolant can loose it protective properties, anti-corrosive and anti-freezing. In service life is time related i.e. Length of time coolant has been in the system. (different materials used in cooling system and old coolant can loose it protective properties and cause galvanic attack on the less noble metals within the cooling system). Recommend changing now.
Engine oil collects contaminates from the combustion process (even over 1000 miles) and the oil will oxidise over time, even if the engine has not been in use. In this instance it is time dependent, as it has not been filter and may also contain some water. Recommend changing now
In closing I would recommend that you have a full 12 month service undertaken before putting the car into service, as per the Porsche Maintenance Schedule, particularly the brake fluid systems, the cooling system and the engine lube oil. All other fluid systems, such as Auto and transaxle system are distance related.
The Timing Belt should be checked for tension and if is over 5 year old (general consensus of 928 owners), change it and overhaul the tensioner and fill with new oil. WYAIT (if timing belt changed) check the water pump for leakage, if no leakage other than stain from seepage hole and no movement of water pump spindle or smooth turning without slight rumbling what-so-ever, change the WP.
Hope these recommendation help.
Tails, 1990 928S4 Auto
Brakes & Oil were top of my list. Forgot about coolant (thanks Stan). Will check the res for color for PS Fluid. Will def. change PSD lube. Need to find out exactly where the coolant is coming out from.
The TB/WP were done in May 2009 with a rebuilt Porsche WP, tensioner.
05-05-2012, 08:35 PM
#27
Race Car
Thread Starter
Good news. Should the car need the Water Pump (and therefore Timing Belt) replaced, then they are going to abandon the sale and re-advertise the car with that noted, refunding my deposit.
I'm waiting to hear what their mechanic sees on Monday or Tuesday and if it is only the water bridge o-rings or something more.
He's a Jaguar expert (every year) so he's dealt with difficult situations before!
Michael
I'm waiting to hear what their mechanic sees on Monday or Tuesday and if it is only the water bridge o-rings or something more.
He's a Jaguar expert (every year) so he's dealt with difficult situations before!
Michael
05-05-2012, 11:01 PM
#28
Instructor
I would not start it with the gas in it. It needs to be drained from the tank before the filter. Maybe I missed an earlier post, but why would anyone buy one of these just to let it sit. Do some work on it like replace the steering rack, then just let it sit?
05-06-2012, 12:00 AM
#29
Race Car
Thread Starter
The car was taken care of until 2010 when it was sold to a collector. Then it sat...and the leak just started...seals probably dried out and were due anyway.
Now the collector is selling it-but is standing up if the problem is bigger than they can fix and will refund my deposit. I am hoping they fix it to my satisfaction and theirs or else I may be out some additional funds...
Michael
05-17-2012, 09:52 PM
#30
Race Car
Thread Starter
I Use Valvoline Max life for the trans and Power steering thus only one flavor is on the shelf.
Max life works well,
I would leave the trans and Power steering fluid as they are,
they have only seen 1k miles not many heat cycles so they are probably in good condition.
I would consider swapping out the coolant with 2 gallons of Zerex Z05 and 2 gallons of distilled water.
Replace the heater control valve and short hose,
also inspect the thermostat rear seal and consider swapping out the thermostat and coolant bottle cap
Max life works well,
I would leave the trans and Power steering fluid as they are,
they have only seen 1k miles not many heat cycles so they are probably in good condition.
I would consider swapping out the coolant with 2 gallons of Zerex Z05 and 2 gallons of distilled water.
Replace the heater control valve and short hose,
also inspect the thermostat rear seal and consider swapping out the thermostat and coolant bottle cap
As far as Zerex Z05--is it okay to buy the premixed 50/50 version (4 gallons total)? Or is it better to do 1 gallon each at a time to get to 4?
Thanks!
Michael