New to me 84 Euro S auto
08-04-2012, 01:41 PM
#47
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09-03-2012, 12:44 AM
#48
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I took the car to CT Auto in Campbell. Ryan worked on it.
I had them do their "full service" while looking for issues in general. The dual distributor wires were bad and not serviceable (as I recall, Ryan said they'd ordinarily sand it, but that it had already been sanded down to nothing). I OK'd their sourcing a replacement from 928 international, plus markup, rather than source it myself. Ryan also replaced the dual distributor belt(s?), and claimed to re-align the gears as the existing belt had a missing tooth and the gears were not coordinated correctly. He cleaned the MAF. The service improved the idle and got back some performance but the replacement MAF I got from Ott's Performance Engineering (performance928.com) made a big difference.
Ryan said the fuel lines and T belt were OK, and the TT was OK.
I picked it up, still babied it a bit but took it up to 80 once or twice on the drive home, and then a mile from home the coolant light came on. When I parked it a few minutes later, it had steam coming from the hood. Coolant was all over the engine. Towed it back. Ryan said one of the coolant lines had split and replaced most of them.
I picked it up again and have been slowly driving it harder, getting used to it and waiting for the next problem. I have put the pedal to the metal a few times on the highway, and it certainly has get up and go. Power really picks up after 3000 rpm, but by the time it gets there (starting from 45 or so) I'm already close to 80 or 90 mph so I have to take my foot off.
Handles much better than my first drive. They didnt do an alignment, suggested the tires may have had flat spots when I first picked it up.
AC works, but I haven't risked driving it with the AC on yet. Driven with the heat on to see how it affected temps (engine temp seemed to go up compared to drives without, which I wasn't expecting).
Radio works, but the cassette deck switches sides sometimes with no tape in the deck, apparently under acceleration.
Lights work.
I'm still getting used to it. Feels like I'm sitting on the road, it has 28 year old car squeaks (motor mounts need replacing), and it has the scent of oil, but it's growing on me as my foot learns to stuff the pedal. The seat is low and worn but the ride is surprisingly comfortable. Still need some time to feel I can trust it, and I have more PM to do.
Now that it's "working", I plan to do as much as possible myself (or with any willing helping hands), although I'd be reluctant to disassemble it to the point that I wouldn't be able to drive it for more than three weeks. This weekend I've been reorganizing my garage along with throwing things out in order to free up a spot for wrenching.
My next worry/task is the brakes. Sometimes they squeal a LOT under light pressure, to the point that I slam the brakes instead of slowing gradually (not very nice during stop and go traffic). Considering doing an upgrade to a later version, as marketed by 928 motorsports (928brakes.com).
--Jim
I had them do their "full service" while looking for issues in general. The dual distributor wires were bad and not serviceable (as I recall, Ryan said they'd ordinarily sand it, but that it had already been sanded down to nothing). I OK'd their sourcing a replacement from 928 international, plus markup, rather than source it myself. Ryan also replaced the dual distributor belt(s?), and claimed to re-align the gears as the existing belt had a missing tooth and the gears were not coordinated correctly. He cleaned the MAF. The service improved the idle and got back some performance but the replacement MAF I got from Ott's Performance Engineering (performance928.com) made a big difference.
Ryan said the fuel lines and T belt were OK, and the TT was OK.
I picked it up, still babied it a bit but took it up to 80 once or twice on the drive home, and then a mile from home the coolant light came on. When I parked it a few minutes later, it had steam coming from the hood. Coolant was all over the engine. Towed it back. Ryan said one of the coolant lines had split and replaced most of them.
I picked it up again and have been slowly driving it harder, getting used to it and waiting for the next problem. I have put the pedal to the metal a few times on the highway, and it certainly has get up and go. Power really picks up after 3000 rpm, but by the time it gets there (starting from 45 or so) I'm already close to 80 or 90 mph so I have to take my foot off.
Handles much better than my first drive. They didnt do an alignment, suggested the tires may have had flat spots when I first picked it up.
AC works, but I haven't risked driving it with the AC on yet. Driven with the heat on to see how it affected temps (engine temp seemed to go up compared to drives without, which I wasn't expecting).
Radio works, but the cassette deck switches sides sometimes with no tape in the deck, apparently under acceleration.
Lights work.
I'm still getting used to it. Feels like I'm sitting on the road, it has 28 year old car squeaks (motor mounts need replacing), and it has the scent of oil, but it's growing on me as my foot learns to stuff the pedal. The seat is low and worn but the ride is surprisingly comfortable. Still need some time to feel I can trust it, and I have more PM to do.
Now that it's "working", I plan to do as much as possible myself (or with any willing helping hands), although I'd be reluctant to disassemble it to the point that I wouldn't be able to drive it for more than three weeks. This weekend I've been reorganizing my garage along with throwing things out in order to free up a spot for wrenching.
My next worry/task is the brakes. Sometimes they squeal a LOT under light pressure, to the point that I slam the brakes instead of slowing gradually (not very nice during stop and go traffic). Considering doing an upgrade to a later version, as marketed by 928 motorsports (928brakes.com).
--Jim
09-03-2012, 12:55 AM
#49
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He said your fuel lines were 'fine'? But, have they been replaced? If they are original, I don't care how they look, they must be replaced. Glad to hear it's running better.
09-03-2012, 03:37 AM
#50
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Ditto what Doc said.
Shoot some closeup pictures for us please.
Don't mess with this.
Cleaning MAF?
It has hot wire cook circuit on each shutdown that cooks it clean.
We've plied two of them with MAF cleaner and both failed within a few hundred miles.
Hope you have better luck.
Shoot some closeup pictures for us please.
Don't mess with this.
Cleaning MAF?
It has hot wire cook circuit on each shutdown that cooks it clean.
We've plied two of them with MAF cleaner and both failed within a few hundred miles.
Hope you have better luck.
09-03-2012, 05:49 AM
#51
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As otheres have siad, the failed coolant hose is a warning that all the rubber is time expired. Without delay , change all the flexible fuel lines for new, including the little short ones that connect the injectors to the fuel rails. Then is a good time to have the injectors ultransonically cleaned and flow tested. This made a good improvement in performance on my 86 Euro 16v.
Also check out the vacuum system, it is likely some of the rubber joiners are also worn out and leaking.
Also check out the vacuum system, it is likely some of the rubber joiners are also worn out and leaking.
09-07-2012, 03:55 AM
#53
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That said, I just ordered a fuel line kit from Roger Tyson.
Ditto what Doc said.
Shoot some closeup pictures for us please.
Don't mess with this.
Cleaning MAF?
It has hot wire cook circuit on each shutdown that cooks it clean.
We've plied two of them with MAF cleaner and both failed within a few hundred miles.
Hope you have better luck.
Shoot some closeup pictures for us please.
Don't mess with this.
Cleaning MAF?
It has hot wire cook circuit on each shutdown that cooks it clean.
We've plied two of them with MAF cleaner and both failed within a few hundred miles.
Hope you have better luck.
The MAF was very oily. Ryan cleaned it up with ... MAF cleaner. Still didnt work properly.
As others have said, the failed coolant hose is a warning that all the rubber is time expired. Without delay , change all the flexible fuel lines for new, including the little short ones that connect the injectors to the fuel rails. Then is a good time to have the injectors ultransonically cleaned and flow tested. This made a good improvement in performance on my 86 Euro 16v.
Also check out the vacuum system, it is likely some of the rubber joiners are also worn out and leaking.
Also check out the vacuum system, it is likely some of the rubber joiners are also worn out and leaking.
Anyone want to stop by? edit: I have a Big Green Egg BBQ. 30 minutes to the best BBQ chicken thighs I've ever tasted.
Might send the injectors to Witchhunter.
If someone knowledgeable can stop by, lots of other things can be examined (quickly ... compared to just me and my PET).
It's definitely fun to drive now.
Last edited by Snowglobe; 09-07-2012 at 04:15 AM. Reason: BBQ temptation
