Can't access sunroof liner
#1
Drifting
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Can't access sunroof liner
The sunroof on my 89' S4 won't open enough.
When I push the button, the passenger side rear of the sunroof starts to drop into the roof, but the drivers side is stuck (starts to lower and stops) and because of that, I can't open it enough to access the 3 headliner screws.
Once I get at the screws, I know what to do from there. I've had the entire sunroof/rails, etc. all out several times.
Other than cutting a hole in the headliner to access where the it's jammed, what can I do?
When I push the button, the passenger side rear of the sunroof starts to drop into the roof, but the drivers side is stuck (starts to lower and stops) and because of that, I can't open it enough to access the 3 headliner screws.
Once I get at the screws, I know what to do from there. I've had the entire sunroof/rails, etc. all out several times.
Other than cutting a hole in the headliner to access where the it's jammed, what can I do?
#3
Drifting
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Haven't tried the hand-crank yet.
I assumed that would just be the same as using the motor?
I think the jam is being caused by that floating block of metal that has that adjustment screw. If that is off by a lil' bit, it won't go back down through the hole in the rail and will jam the sunroof from falling down onto the tracks.
I assumed that would just be the same as using the motor?
I think the jam is being caused by that floating block of metal that has that adjustment screw. If that is off by a lil' bit, it won't go back down through the hole in the rail and will jam the sunroof from falling down onto the tracks.
#4
Team Owner
try tapping on the roof on the side thats sticking then try to use the switch it may take a few times.
If that fails .
THEN remove the sunroof motor cover ,
Then remove the transmission ( 2 nuts then it drops out)
Then take a small screw driver and pull the cable thats jammed this will move the cable and thus that transition block
Report back what you find
If that fails .
THEN remove the sunroof motor cover ,
Then remove the transmission ( 2 nuts then it drops out)
Then take a small screw driver and pull the cable thats jammed this will move the cable and thus that transition block
Report back what you find
#5
Drifting
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Managed to poke up the interior sunroof panel up from the inside enough to see up near the transition block.
The block itself was jamming for some reason. I took a pry bar and hammer and wacked the transition block and it broke free. I could then slide that side of the roof back with my hand.
The roof would now go forwards (close), but when I tried to go the other direction, only the passenger side (the unstuck side) would move.
Took the sunroof out and noticed the cable was no longer pulling the transition block on the drivers side - the cable is not longer attached.
This is the block the cable isn't attached to anymore....
Now, how do I get the cable to attach back to that block? Do I have to remove the deflector/guide bars, then lift the tracks in the front and slide it back in place or something?
The block itself was jamming for some reason. I took a pry bar and hammer and wacked the transition block and it broke free. I could then slide that side of the roof back with my hand.
The roof would now go forwards (close), but when I tried to go the other direction, only the passenger side (the unstuck side) would move.
Took the sunroof out and noticed the cable was no longer pulling the transition block on the drivers side - the cable is not longer attached.
This is the block the cable isn't attached to anymore....
Now, how do I get the cable to attach back to that block? Do I have to remove the deflector/guide bars, then lift the tracks in the front and slide it back in place or something?
#6
Team Owner
remove the cable and the transition block you need a new cable
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#8
Team Owner
anyone parting out a car should be able to give you one try Benton he was giving away a roller
#9
Drifting
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Thanks!
Removed the broken cable - once I had it out, it was obvious there was no re-attaching it....it's all one piece.
If you look at this photo of a cable I found on the net.....
It almost looks like the cable is being crimped by the transition block. If this were the case, it would seem to be a better design having the two pieces separate - the actual cable and the block that you crimp on the end of the cable. Oh well.
Mine is busted right where the black meets the sliver in the above photo, but again, in the photo, that area looks to be all metal, but on the actual piece, it's more like a plastic. Mine just sort of snapped off I guess - I was hoping to find an empty hole in the block so I could re-insert the cable back in, but it was solid.
Removed the broken cable - once I had it out, it was obvious there was no re-attaching it....it's all one piece.
If you look at this photo of a cable I found on the net.....
It almost looks like the cable is being crimped by the transition block. If this were the case, it would seem to be a better design having the two pieces separate - the actual cable and the block that you crimp on the end of the cable. Oh well.
Mine is busted right where the black meets the sliver in the above photo, but again, in the photo, that area looks to be all metal, but on the actual piece, it's more like a plastic. Mine just sort of snapped off I guess - I was hoping to find an empty hole in the block so I could re-insert the cable back in, but it was solid.
#10
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So, when re-installing the new cable, do I pull out both cables on each side and re-insert them together to get the cables lines up?
I noticed that once the front bar is removed, you can move the cables/guides all the way to the front, where they disengage with the motor (and the motor just spins). To get the working cable back in place, I just slightly pushed it until the motor grabbed the cable. Is this basically how one installs a new cable?
I noticed that once the front bar is removed, you can move the cables/guides all the way to the front, where they disengage with the motor (and the motor just spins). To get the working cable back in place, I just slightly pushed it until the motor grabbed the cable. Is this basically how one installs a new cable?
#11
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So, when re-installing the new cable, do I pull out both cables on each side and re-insert them together to get the cables lines up?
I noticed that once the front bar is removed, you can move the cables/guides all the way to the front, where they disengage with the motor (and the motor just spins). To get the working cable back in place, I just slightly pushed it until the motor grabbed the cable. Is this basically how one installs a new cable?
I noticed that once the front bar is removed, you can move the cables/guides all the way to the front, where they disengage with the motor (and the motor just spins). To get the working cable back in place, I just slightly pushed it until the motor grabbed the cable. Is this basically how one installs a new cable?
#12
Burning Brakes
Not to hijack the thread, but I've got a somewhat similar problem with my '89.
Mine seems to function properly, but only opens about half way. It acts like it's hitting something. The prior owner had no clue & I haven't tried to tear into it yet.
Any ideas?
James
Mine seems to function properly, but only opens about half way. It acts like it's hitting something. The prior owner had no clue & I haven't tried to tear into it yet.
Any ideas?
James
#13
Team Owner
Jheis you have to open it up,
if the roof has been adjusted then there is a good chance the front bar has been overtightened thus it will bind on the tracks
If it has not been messed with then one or more of the securing bolts may be backing out use blue loctite on all of the roof bolts..
Jeff to get the cables lined up simply grease and insert each cable into its tube,
then push them to the side slots in the tracks,
this is done with the transmission removed,
the motor can stay in place as the trans slides off of the motor drive with the rubber shaft, once the cables are even then install the transmission
if the roof has been adjusted then there is a good chance the front bar has been overtightened thus it will bind on the tracks
If it has not been messed with then one or more of the securing bolts may be backing out use blue loctite on all of the roof bolts..
Jeff to get the cables lined up simply grease and insert each cable into its tube,
then push them to the side slots in the tracks,
this is done with the transmission removed,
the motor can stay in place as the trans slides off of the motor drive with the rubber shaft, once the cables are even then install the transmission
#14
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In mine I found that the drip tray that should sit under the rear of the sunroof had broken into several pieces. One of these pieces got in the way of the sunroof traveling all the way back - so it have a hard stop - as distinct from a 'softer' jamb. Maybe that is what is happening with yours jheis.
#15
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I'm with Mrmerlin and Martinss re the sunroof only opening half way.
The only things that could really cause that would either be a broken/stuck drip tray or the sunroof panel is too tight to the crossbar.
There is a fine line between too tight and too loose (which causes the back of the sunroof to not drop down when opening).
The only things that could really cause that would either be a broken/stuck drip tray or the sunroof panel is too tight to the crossbar.
There is a fine line between too tight and too loose (which causes the back of the sunroof to not drop down when opening).