86 compressor replacement type
04-23-2012, 04:07 PM
#31
Race Car
Not that easy to tell from those pics, but looks like a 6E171. I don't know what's up with that label on the back cover, doesn't everyone know how to spell "Toyota" 
Generally, all 928's from '80 - '89 should have the Nippondenso 6E171 in stock form. '90 and newer should have a Nippondenso 10PA20C stock.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Generally, all 928's from '80 - '89 should have the Nippondenso 6E171 in stock form. '90 and newer should have a Nippondenso 10PA20C stock.Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
07-25-2012, 06:58 PM
#33
This ones out of an '82.
Anyone have a clue how to get the front shaft seal replaced? These Phillips head screws will not come out and I don't want to damage them. This is an early 6E171.
Not accessible from the front.
Anyone have a clue how to get the front shaft seal replaced? These Phillips head screws will not come out and I don't want to damage them. This is an early 6E171.
Not accessible from the front.
07-25-2012, 07:54 PM
#34
1) Exam where the aluminum nose meets the steel reed valve plate. If the compressor has never been resealed or rebuilt there will be a fiber gasket holding the two together. Use a putty knife and separate the two pieces.
2) Get an can of Gasket Remover from your local auto parts store.
Spray the surfaces of both parts where the fiber gasket material remains and carefully scrape away the gasket. Be careful not to damage the surfaces.
3) The seal assembly is remove from the underside of the aluminum nose, and reverse procedure for new seal assembly.
4) If you need to remove the screws holding the reed valves to the reed plate you don't turn the screw, you turn the nut on the opposite side.
2) Get an can of Gasket Remover from your local auto parts store.
Spray the surfaces of both parts where the fiber gasket material remains and carefully scrape away the gasket. Be careful not to damage the surfaces.
3) The seal assembly is remove from the underside of the aluminum nose, and reverse procedure for new seal assembly.
4) If you need to remove the screws holding the reed valves to the reed plate you don't turn the screw, you turn the nut on the opposite side.
07-25-2012, 07:56 PM
#35
1) Exam where the aluminum nose meets the steel reed valve plate. If the compressor has never been resealed or rebuilt there will be a fiber gasket holding the two together. Use a putty knife and separate the two pieces.
2) Get an can of Gasket Remover from your local auto parts store.
Spray the surfaces of both parts where the fiber gasket material remains and carefully scrape away the gasket. Be careful not to damage the surfaces.
3) The seal assembly is remove from the underside of the aluminum nose, and reverse procedure for new seal assembly.
4) If you need to remove the screws holding the reed valves to the reed place you don't turn the screw, you turn the nut on the opposite side.
2) Get an can of Gasket Remover from your local auto parts store.
Spray the surfaces of both parts where the fiber gasket material remains and carefully scrape away the gasket. Be careful not to damage the surfaces.
3) The seal assembly is remove from the underside of the aluminum nose, and reverse procedure for new seal assembly.
4) If you need to remove the screws holding the reed valves to the reed place you don't turn the screw, you turn the nut on the opposite side.
Thank you, this just got a bit more interesting. My normal re-builder is weeks from being able to do this so I finally get to use the tools I picked up a long time ago.
I figure if I screw this one up, I can grab one of the several sitting around here to work on next.
0711415010, 10pa20c, 6e171, 944, ac, compressor, dimensions, instructions, manifold, niiondenso, oring, rebuild, size, st, tool
