OldGuy

It appears that the pump can be replaced without dropping or draining
the tank. It is a failrly simple job? I have all the maintenence manuals.
All I have to do is get a used pump?

TIA

SeanR

Used pump? Get a new one and not worry about it for another couple of decades.

It's easy to do, if the hose coming from the tank is in fine shape you can just crimp it with a hose crimper and then unplug everything, swap 'em out.

ThomO

Simple job, buy a new pump

OldGuy

Easy Job, NEW pump on order!!! thanks Guys!!

jpitman2

I suggest you assemble the pump, S pipe and filter onto the carrier ON THE BENCH. The S pipes are easy to damage trying to tighten the banjos while under the car - my local wrench stocks them. New check valve is also a good idea. Check the state of the inlet hose - is this is at all tired looking, then you are up for draining the tank. Also worth checking the hose out of the filter that delivers forward - if this fails you may literally get toatsted.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k BTDT.

Podguy

Oh use an old one. They has for ever and you can get one at the wrecker for $15.

The bigger concern is why the pump failed. There is a tank screen threaded into the tank. Over time the screen material rots. Little pieces will break off and fowl the pump. Sometimes you can free the pump and flush by running it backwards. If the current pump failed because of a fragment from the screen fried the pump then there is a good chance the new pump will be messed up the same way in a very short time. Do not ask me know I know this.

Good luck with your pump. Check the fuse holder for the fuel pump fuse. As a pump gets old it will draw more current. This can cause the connection for the fuse and the plug for the relay to get messed up too. These are worth cleaning.

I find Mystery oil in the tank will quiet down a noisy pump. The hose between the tank and the pump is worth looking at replacing too.

jpitman2

I recently had a pump relay issue, and in the end I found the fuse contact was poor , and was causing the current to increase and ruin the relay - I actually saw a spark at the fuse out of the corner of my eye! Check your fuse contacts (I think 22, but check), and check out my other thread about adapting modern blade fuse holders to the old Euro bullet fuse fittings - working well for me. My pump now pulls 7A, well under the 16A fuse.
I also saved a pump for several more years of work by reversing polarity and getting some debris spat out of it. If you try to remove the in-tank filter, take care - if its very tight, it can spin the theaded insert in the tank, and the tank will be toast - BTDT! Mine spun, but I managed to seal it up with PC11 epoxy, lasted several years before I found a replacement tank.

jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

danglerb

Doesn't the pump use brushes or something that just wear out over time?

robot808

Get some extra crush washers. You might burn through a few trying to get a good seal. As cheap as they are, that's a really silky reason to have to stop your work.

Podguy

If the in tank screen does not give way easily STOP. The screen should not be in there much more then finger tight. If not the case then drain the gas and put in a pint of Berryman's B12 at the bottom of the tank covering all of the screen. Wait a couple of days for the Berryman's to work its magic and the tank screen will come right out.

Podguy

Yes the pump uses bushings and they do wear. More frequently the bushings will get varnish on them from old gas sitting there from none use.

If the pump is drawing excess current it is a sign the pump has excess friction. This would not come from worn bearings but it would from excess varnish. Washing the pump out with some berryman;s and lubing it with mystery oil will both quiet down the pump and lower the current draw.

This does seem only to be am issue with the older cars.