b1114p

I've been trying to suss this for 3 days now... In short, the brown/white switched-ground wires from door switches/lamps (both sides) and horn button actuation ohm out to 0 to their respective "outboard" multi-pin connectors, but from the "inboard" connectors (female) to the CE panel they each register as open-circuit. On the '85 the CE connection points are F15 and D24, respectively. Jumpering any of these points directly to it's CE connection results in normal operation. I'm not observing any other malfunctions in this area...

The question is: Is there some sort of mid-harness connector that may have come disconnected that's causing this? It appears to me that all of these conductors enter the main harness on both ends directly. I don't see any mid-harness connections - and don't feel like ripping out the dash to try and discover them unless I absolutely must.

Secondarily: Is it unwise just to run a more permanent jumper wire to the CE for these three, or should I continue to dig?

Thanks for any insight!

Alan

Say more about what you are measuring exactly (which connectors?) and how you are measuring?

Are you looking at the door mounted connector? you should check the condition of the cables in the door pass through...

I'd dig until I knew the source of the issue => there may be more issues stacked behind ths one...

Pin switches? or just the door Lamps & integrated switches?


Alan

Bill Ball

If I follow your report, you are testing this incorrectly. The door pins connect DIRECTLY to F15 with no connector in between. Well, there is a conenctor, but the pin wire continues on from the "inboard" side to F15. Those connectors interface the pin wires with the lamps, not the CE panel. Look at the wiring diagrams again.

I'm not sure what you are testing on the horn circuit. The horn button wire comes to D24 via pin 71 on the combo switch on the column. Did you test between those? Then, when the horn button is depressed, 12V to the horn should come out of the panel at P23. If it does, but the horn does not sound, the problem is the horn or its ground wire.

b1114p

Attached are the applicable circuits which I am finding open circuit. The red-lined conductors are showing open circuit using a VOM continuity/ohm test. This is the case with the referenced connectors disconnected, ignition off. If I manually jumper any of these connections (bypassing/replacing the harness wiring) operation for that particular leg resumes normally.

Current status of door lamp operation: Opening door with door-lamp switch in "auto" position turns on ONLY that door's lamp. Hence, door switch side ground to the lamp (br/ws) is in-tact... Naturally, lamps come on individually when switched to "on" position.

The "inboard" multi-pin connectors I'd referenced for the door wiring are up above the kick panels at the outside corners of the dashboard.

Hope that explains what I've done and where I'm at...

Landseer

before testing it I'd clean all three door pins and ensure proper wiring to all 5 interior lights. I'd probably ignore the glovebox light and vanity mirror light(s) if equipped as they don't give much trouble.

Oh and ensure the other door safety red light also works.

Testing will drive you crazy otherwise.

Bill Ball

If your observation is that there is no continuity from pin 11 on EITHER of the two connectors to F15, you are suggesting two wires are broken. Regardless, I see no problem jumping between those pins and F15 to restore the continuity that is supposed to be there.

What about the horn circuit?

b1114p

Found it ... Behind the panel, those three conductors had about 1/2" insulation damage and over time, the conductors oxidized away. Not sure if there's a formulation problem in the brown/white insulation that causes deterioration, or maybe some small rodent at one time was in there and found the brown/white the most appealing... Lol.

Anyway, an inspection didn't uncover any similar insulation damage.

Thanks for the help!

Bill Ball

That's an odd one...or three. Glad you found them.