Hi everyone
Currently trying to install a Viper 211HV keyless entry system to my 87 S4 (sorry if this topic has been flogged to death already!) Anyway, the keyless module is hooked up with 12V constant, 12V Ign and Ground. I've hooked up the 'lock #30common output' and 'unlock #30 common output' wires to the yellow and green/black wires at the central lock control unit and ....it doesn't work. Has anyone installed this system to their car and could point me in the right direction? The viper instructions are very limited to put it mildly. The car locking and alarm system works as intended usually.

The pin connections are as follows:
H1/1 - 12v supply connected
H1/2 - (-) 200mA second unlock output
H1/3 - input for domelight relay #87
H1/4 - output for domelight relay #30
H1/5 - lock #30 common (output)
H1/6 - lock #87 normally closed
H1/7 - lock #87 normally open (input)
H1/8 - unlock #30 common (output)
H1/9 - unlock #87 normally open (input)
H1/10 - (+/-) parking light flash output
H1/11 - (-) chassis ground connected
H1/12 - (-) horn honk output
H1/13 - factory alarm disarm
H1/14 - (-) 200mA channel 3 validity output
H1/15 - (+) switched ign input connected
H1/16 - (-) 500mA ground-when-armed output
H1/17 - unlock #87A normally closed
H1/18 - (-) output of channel 2

The blue LED indicator and valet switch are connected to the keyless module, the led flashes when lock button is activated.

Any help much appreciated.
Joe.

 

Man, that is confusing. You're almost there. H1/7 and H1/9 need to be connected to ground. These provide the ground input to the Viper's lock and unlock outputs that you already connected. The 928 locks and alarm are switched by grounding. If you want the horn honk acknowledgement, tap H1/12 to CE panel plug H22 (plug H, 2nd from the bottom on the 2nd bank), a brown/white wire.

I can give you a scheme to add hatch release tomorrow.

 

Thanks Bill, the input lines you refer to join with a 15A fuse and then continue as a single line (from factory) so I should ground that? Will do as you advise. I did connect 12v to that line (those inputs) and noted that a short pulse of 12v was at H1/5 and H1/8 when using the transmitter so grounding now makes sense. In spite of my best efforts to learn electrics it still remains a bit of a challenge to me! The horn honk I could probably do without, but the hatch release, lights flash and dome light supervision would be good. Have you installed the viper system or are you just really electrics wise?
Thanks again.

 

Yes, ground that fused line. 12V is not right. The sparse install notes are so unclear as to what the wires actually do, that until I found a very specific wiring scheme for ground-tripped locks and alarm, I was befuddled too. I haven't installed a Viper keyless before. Poking around the Net with Google, I discovered Bulldog has a Viper system and complete install notes. Look here at page 5 under Type B (-) locks:
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/KE100_150_1702.pdf

 

I haven't done an 87, but looking at the wiring diagrams, it appears the door locks and alarm are separated and the alarm is optional. I can't see where they are connected. Do you have the alarm?

 

Yes I have the alarm which is basically good...the internal relay which powers the alarm horn (behind the blower box) needs a tap to get it going and I repaired a broken wire in the driver's door. The immobiliser function is good and all the lock switches work ok. I have a second hand alarm box (Hella) on the way from Roger so hopefully it will be fully functional then. I think you're right about the two systems being seperate, the long 'alarm key' activates the alarm and the shorter key activates door locking only.
Will try the keylesss install again this morning.

 

The odd thing is that there are long and short keys with later cars as well, but using the door lock controller wires also switches the alarm, at least on my 89. This is where my electrical understanding fails me.

It looks like in your case, you are going to need to run wires from H1/5 to arm and H1/8 to disarm the alarm at the alarm control unit. Arm would be a brown/red wire, disarm brown/green. If you want to retain separate short and long key operation, you'll need to use some diodes to keep these ground pulses from communicating.

You can use the AUX button output to pop the hatch. This requires two standard automotive relays or a single DPDT relay. One relay will provide the power signal, the other ground. You need the ground because the hatch normal ground is only provided with a door open. You will also need to wire the the AUX output to disarm the alarm.

Wire the new hatch power relay with 12V+ power to poles 30 and 86. Wire the Viper AUX output wire (H1/12 Red/White) to 85 and then run another wire deom relay pole 87 to the yellow wire at the passenger side hatch pull. Wire the new hatch ground relay with ground to pole 30, +12V to pole 86, the AUX output wire to pole 85 and a wire from pole 87 to the interior light pin-switched ground at H12 [CORRECTION: That should be H13 (plug H, third from bottom in first bank; brown/white wire)] on the CE panel. Finally run the AUX output wire to the alarm disarm as well. You may need a diode on the wires you hooked up at the alarm controller to disarm it when the door open button is pushed unless you want the doors to open with the hatch. The diodes would be wired to block the ground signal from the new hatch ground relay from travelling up the door unlock wires.

 

Success, I connected H7 / H9 to ground and the doors now lock and unlock, LED flashes on lock. Hooking up H12 to the horn wire does nothing, apparently the output from the wire is (-) 200mA so maybe a relay is needed. Will attempt the hatch release next and then parking light flash another day.
Thanks again Bill for your help with this.

 

It's CE plug H22, not H12. This is the ground input to the car's horn relay, so it should not need to be high current.

You use CE H12 [Correction - that's H13] for the ground for the hatch.

Also, it's far easier to use the turn signals instead of the parking lights. You can wire the + "parking light" output of the Viper to CE panel C23 and C24. NOTE: To preserve independent left/right signal function, put 6A diodes on each of the wires from the Viper to C23 and C24.

 

Yup, H22 CE br/w wire was the wire I connected to per your first post but no sound (horn works ok) maybe an issue with the viper module, I'll have another go later. I like your idea of using turn signals; much more visible anyway, need to find a couple of diodes for that. I'll forego the dome light supervision, not necessary. Making some progress here!

 

Oh, I see, H12 was the Viper horn wire number, not the CE panel plug. OK. As far as I can see, the Viper horn ground output wire should work like other keyless kits tapped into H22. Make sure the tap is making good contact with the H22 wire.

 

So the job is done, following Bill's advice to the letter, and everything works as it should The horn issue was a classic case of RTFM; the default is "silent" mode, press the AUX button briefly to initiate honk on lock and unlock! I guess those folks at Viper don't like waking up the neighbours.
So a big thank you to Bill, couldn't have done it without you.
Owe you a beer.
Joe.

 

And I owe that beer and a few more to Alan, borland, Ed Scherer and a few others here who blazed the path on keyless installs in the 928. It took a some time to get it to this point. I'd like to compile a guide for each model year.

 

It would be great if you would do a writeup since you just finished. I would love to give it a try as I find myself wishing the shark worked like the BMW when it comes to locking and unlocking.

 

Does Viper sell a push button start that plugs into this kit?