drwhosc

Well thanks for the help. Here is some feedback. When I looked at the switch, I could not get it int spec. the switch would close, but when I insatalled it, I could not rotateit enough to get it to close.

SO is there a way to adjust the shaft so that I can mount the switch. My old switch does work.

Here is the other issue, When I test both switches I can not get the WOT to turn off. Looks like pin 1 is the ground, and pin 2 is throttle closed, it works well. Pin 3 should be my WOT signal, I get continuity on this pin all the time.

Hard to believe two switches are bad. What am I missing

SO can I adjust the TB shaft,a dn how can I test WOT function not just idle state.

Bill Ball

There is no adjustment that will affect WOT very much. The small 5 degrees or so adjustment range in the screw slots is for setting the idle switch.

I agree two switches can't be bad. If you tested the switches directly, not through the harness, something is wrong with the test. You are quoting the pin numbers incorrectly. Pin 1 (center) is ground, as you said, but pin 2 is WOT, not 3. Look at the connector cutouts to get the orientation correct. There are some numbers on the connector (2 18 3), but they do not correspond to the pin numbers (2 and 3 are reversed; 18 is pin 1). Note that the idle position has a definite "click" of a microswitch. The WOT end does not. Make sure you are testing the right pins and function. The most common problem is for WOT to fail to make contact (continuity). Failure is usually from a broken solder joint inside, so failure is NO continuity.

There is an earlier, 85/6 switch that mounts on the other side of the 85/6 throttle, then an 87 onward switch. But I think you can't even mount the wrong one. The correct switch is BOSCH part 0 280 120 322, as indicated on the switch shell.

drwhosc

unfortunatly Yes. I am testing the switch directly am I doing somethign wrong. I can not get the connection to turn off on one set of the pins, and this is the signal that goes to pin 3 on the lH connector

Bill Ball

I'm stumped. Never seen or heard of that before. We must be having some kind of communication problem. If the TPS is sending a constant WOT signal, then the EZK connector would show continuity between pins 18 and 26 as well. Is that so? Also, I edited my post probably while you were replying. Make sure everything I wrote jives with what you are doing and seeing.

drwhosc

Ok so it turns out we were only testing the new switch. I thought we tested the old one, but it was not tested. So when I got them on the bench, the old switch WORKS... Woo Hoo. So I dropped it into the car, adn testeed it with Theo's diagnostic tool, now I ge tteh idle switch and you guessed it, no WOT got to love these things......

michaelathome

This is VIRTUALLY impossible to do IIRC with the manifold in place. I ran into the same problem on my '88. Each time you had to pull the manifold to adjust it. There was not enough play to be found in the cables. PITA.

At Frenzy 8 we tested several cars with a sharktuner and of the 8 or so tested there were 5 that couldn't hit WOT and 3 that could. All 5 of those that failed had done intake refreshes.

GL you can do it. There should be some "best practice" procedure out there but I never found one. My guess is that you need to figure out and mark the click positions before removing and alligning the new switch to those marked positions upon replacement.

Michael

Mrmerlin

if you do the intake refresh then you would set the TPS on the bench,
you wouldnt mark a setting place for the switch as they would all be different.

Setting procedure is to install the new switch onto the throttle shaft then turn it till its closed this while the throttle shaft is closed , then turn it open till you hear the click,
then turn it back till you hear the click,
Then lock it into place,
then test by opening the throttle horn,
as the horn is pushed the click should be heard
otherwise you may be able to loosen the screws with a 90 degree screw tool while its installed.
This tool looks like an L shaped allen wrench except it has a flat blade on the end of it,
one blade is 90 degrees to the other.

drwhosc

there is no click heard at WOT on these switches. I can see the ohms change with a multimeter, but the LH is not seeing it and giving the WOT signal. at this poing, i don;t care about WOt, I dont think I am goign to be pushing the car to that point anytime soon. I am facinated by Michael comment, all TB RnR could not get to WOT... Hopefully the LH will see the drop in resistance and adjust the fuel map.

michaelathome

TPS was removed/replaced after powder coating re-paints. No one had theirs set correctly on re-install of intake manifold.

Michael

Bill Ball

To increase the likelihood of WOT tripping, make sure there is no slack in the throttle cable. There are two adjusters. One is at the firewall where the cable from the pedal comes through. That can take slack out of the first section. The second adjuster is on the throttle quadrant for the second section of cable. Adjust them until the cable is snug BUT the idle switch still trips when the throttle returns to its stop. It is common to find WOT working when the switch is not installed and not find it once installed due to a loose cable. Even with a snug cable, mine only trips when the throttle is mashed to the floor.