Still chasing down my funky hesitation/stumble above 2100 rpm. Cleaned the distributor cap and rotor connections, to no avail. Pulled the passenger side plugs, well almost all of them, and they look a little too sooted not to go ahead and replace them (this issue is probably causing the car to run very rich on top of it all). I planned to replace the plugs while I was at it, and while removing the forward-most plug boot from the head, it snapped, right at the 90 degree elbow. Awesome. So, now the car is stuck in my driveway while I figure out what to do. The wires are not original; only about 5 years old. Plugs were done at the same time; only 13k miles ago. I don't drive this car much!

I was already contemplating a full set of wires for the car because I don't know what's causing the stumble at this point. I was hoping it would be just the plugs. But before I drop $400 on a new plug wire set, can I replace just the single wire that broke? I'm tempted to pull one from my other shark, but at the same time, I'd rather not disable two cars, God forbid something go wrong with that extraction. No, I don't have the proper boot pliers, but I intend to remedy that soon.

So, if I can do the single wire does anyone have a loose single wire I can buy/borrow, or a good used set I can buy/borrow? Thanks in advance.

 

That is not common, in my experience. Was the plug connector stuck in the head really tight, or did it break with little force?

On the OEM wire sets (with Behru connectors), the wires are terminated with crimped-on male threaded fittings, which then screw into the plug connector. Try unscrewing the wire from the broken part (pull the rubber boot back first, if possible), if it comes apart then all you need is a new plug connector--928 602 311 00 <== (link to 928 Int'l, also used for $15).

Porsche originally sold individual wires (check PET) and I believe that 928 Int'l stocks them individually, look up the part# in PET (or post which cylinder here).

Are all the plugs equally sooty? If one of them is more so, then check that particular wire carefully. If only some, then check to see if the sooty ones are all on the same distributor-- if so, check the wire from the coil to the distributor cap very carefully, and also check the coil ground wire.

Cheers,

 

Thanks for the speedy response! The plug connector was super tight; I was applying as much pressure as I had to apply to the others to get them out, but this one didn't like that, I guess.

The connection snapped right at the plastic 90 degree elbow, leaving an empty plastic sleeve that fit into the wire. On the wire, I can see the crimped metal end, which has a small sprouting of wires coming from it. I don't see any kind of threading, though. I'm not sure which goes with what at this point. I've never tried to make my own spark plug wires.

 

It looks like you might have broken the tip off the wire connector when the plug connector broke. I've posted some pic's below of the BERU connectors.

There are two theories here: One is that you are chasing a problem that could well be ignition-related, and unless the wire-set is relatively fresh then go ahead and replace them-- along with the distributor caps and rotors. That may or may not solve the problem, but wire failures are hard to diagnose and wires (and caps/rotors) are not "lifetime" items.

The other argument is that if the wires are in good shape (i.e. insulation is supple with no cracks, terminals are clean and not burned, etc) then save the money for more important items. The counter-argument here is that wire failures are hard to diagnose. The "firefly" test (run the engine in the dark and have a look for sparking) is fine as far as it goes, but ignition voltage is higher with the engine under load (higher combustion pressure means a higher voltage across the plug gap), and arcing may only show up under moderate engine load.

So at a minimum, I would completely disassemble all of the wire terminals (both ends, including the coil-to-distributor wire), if they all look fine then replace that one wire-- check 928Int'l for used. (Part#'s are 928.602.060.19 through 928.602.060.26 for cyl# 1-8 respectively, looks like they are available from Porsche or your favorite source). And if they fall apart instead of disassembling, or look suspect in any way, then it is time for a new set.

 

Ok, that makes sense. Yep, broken! So, I need a wire, unless I can recrimp a new end on there?

I drove it on 7 cylinders to get it back into the garage, and it ran about the same as before. So, it was probably running on a different 7 cylinders! I feel like the wires and or plugs are the issue, but yes, it's a bit of a goose chase right now.

Thanks again for the help!

 

I have an extra 32v Beru extension & can make you a new, crimped Beru wire to replace your damaged one: about $30 total if that's ok.

Mark.

 

where can we get the wire and hardware to make our own?????

 

Thanks! PM (to be) sent.

 

You can get the crimper, wire, and connectors here:

http://www.kingsbornewires.com/produ...&categoryId=84

 

I bought in to Beru years ago & have provided hundreds of sets for Porsche owners. PM me if you're interested.

From Kingsborne: You can only purchase spools of the Beru wire & the crimpers are pricy: not efficient for one/two sets at a time.

 

Here you go, buddy. Going in the mail tomorrow morning.

For others, thank a look at the 2nd pic. This is what I found inside what "looked" like a perfectly good wire.

 

Awesome man!

 

what about the plug boots for 16v heads? where can they be sourced? I'm doing a CNP (coil near plug) for my Megasquirt conversion. so i need the ends, and LS2 coil boots....