Doug_B_928

I'm going to be replacing my tansmission fluid soon, but before doing so I'd like to get rid of this pesky leak, if possible. It doesn't leak much and has been doing this for a while. The problem is I can't see exactly where the is the source of the leak. As shown in the pics, it doesn't seem like it is coming from the rear cover plate. And the CV boots look okay. It's almost like it is coming from the top, but, from looking at PET, the upper opening to the transmission is much more forward than this. Anybody ideas of the source?

Cosmo Kramer

Man it is hard to see where that is coming from. I would clean the area really well and put a bit of dye in the rear end oil. Then run it a bit and look with ultraviolet light so you can see where the leak is coming from. When it makes a mess like that it is hard to find the source, even if it is minor.

Doug_B_928

Interesting idea to put dye into the oil. What kind of dye does one use for this?

Cosmo Kramer

I think Canadian tire still sells it, called a leak detection kit.

Found this one on Ebay for a reasonable price. You just need a black light to get it to really show up.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Tracerline-TP...item5d31964579

Lizard928

It's the flange o-ring that is leaking on the passenger side.
Will be tricky to replace in situ but possible.
Replace both sides.

Doug_B_928

Ah, okay, looking at PET again I see the O-ring. Thanks! What else needs to be replaced when doing this job? The shims?

dr bob

Don't change the shims. They are critical to the R&P gearset survival. You may end up pulling the rear cover to get the bearing inside that flange back into place with the ring gear carrier. Every once in a while I can change a left side seal without removing the cover, but no luck on the right side. Maybe the 928 carrier is different and it doesn't have enough room to fall.

The half-shaft will be out to replace the seal, so take the opportunity to clean and inspect the boots. When you remove the bolts from the inner joint, have a few 6" wire ties handy to hold the cover on the inner side of the CV. It will limit the mess from the grease inside and hopefully keep any dirt from getting in too.

ammonman

I would replace the output flange seals as well if they haven't been done. You will have to remove the output flanges to get the bearing housings out to change the o-rings.

Mike

Doug_B_928

What number on the diagram below is the bearing to which you are referring, or is it something else?

Good tip to keep it together. Is a wire tie the same as a zip tie? So, do most folks just change the boots if necessary and maybe put in some more CV grease, or do they take the CV all apart like Dwayne did in his write-up?

Doug_B_928

Bump for additional info about doing this job.

Doug_B_928

So I took her out of winter hibernation today. Gave me an opportunity to have a better look at the transmission leak. As shown in the first pic below, it's leaking from the gasket on top of the transmission. Anyone ever had this before? Is this a DIY if all one is doing is replacing the gasket, or is this a job for a professional?

Also, I've read several references to tightening a "pinch" bolt on the drive shaft to, I believe, 65 ft lbs, but I don't see the bolt(s). Does anyone have a pic of this or can you please identify it on a snip of pet?

Podguy

Yes that is my guess too. Use some lube when putting it back together so as not to damage the new o-rings. While I was in there I would replace the axle seals in the cover and really clean the stub axles. it looks like the leak is in the o-ring but it could just as easily be the seal. In fact, from experience I would favor the seal as the problem.

Dave928S

To check and tighten the pinch bolt do the following:

1. Remove the rubber plug marked with the arrow.

2. If you rotate the driveshaft, and look in the hole with a torch you'll see the head of the bolt, and will be able to access it when you've rotated it into view. Hold the clutch depressed (a helper or a stick jammed to hold it) to allow easy rotation.

3. With a torque wrench see if you can tighten it with the wrench set at 60 ft lbs ( to gauge its torque) ... then remove the bolt.

4. If the bolt was loose (by much) then there is a chance that the driveshaft has migrated forward, and you'll need to jemmy it back in the TT from the front bell housing, to line the groove in the shaft up with the bolt again.

5. If you see fine red dust (rust) then the bolt may have ridden against the splines and caused some damage, and you'll also see some marks on the shank of the bolt ... if there is spline or bolt damage you may need to investigate the condition of the splines further to ensure the shaft is still OK.

6. If the splines are OK, the bolt came out easily with no damage, and the half round groove in the shaft lines up for the bolt to pass through easily, then you can fit a NEW bolt and torque to 65 ft lbs.

7. You should fit a new bolt because, with one bolt to clamp that connection, they stretch and lose tension. The original spec torque is 59 ft lbs but 65 ft lbs helps to increase clamping pressure. Don't use loktite, because it'll give you a false reassurance that the bolt is to torque when you recheck it, if it's stretched.

8. Once you have this back connection right .. you can then check the front.

Do all this before doing any adjustment at the front clamp. Without the rear connection being tight, and with the driveshaft in the correct position relative to the gearbox, you'll waste your time doing any adjustment or tightening at the front.

Dave928S

Here's a pic (that I've posted before) of the damage to rear splines that can occur if a pinch bolt is loose.

The second picture shows a new bolt below a bolt with marks in the shank, which you can clearly see are from the shaft splines, and a ruined thread from rotating against the damaged shaft as it was removed.

Doug_B_928

Thanks Dan and Dave. Dave, I'll follow your instructions to the letter; terrific! You've taken the mystery out of this!!