opinions - 93 GTS blk auto 23,000 miles - fix up or part out
#31
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think you get the title done and then decide if no plates it is worthless as a car, unless you track it (auto no bueno)
#32
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was also working on this, when seller said you had it I was almost relieved (almost) it was a gamble, no way cali would let me register it.
Glad it runs, PO was sooooo vague he was scary...
Glad it runs, PO was sooooo vague he was scary...
#33
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dont think I will drive it around with I HATE COPS on the fender and *** on the hood[/QUOTE]
Just take a key and etch something simple like "I am still in the closet" and "donut eatin pigs" on the other door and rear fender to offset what is already written and make a joke of it. Then you should be good to go without a paint job and not offend as many people.
Just take a key and etch something simple like "I am still in the closet" and "donut eatin pigs" on the other door and rear fender to offset what is already written and make a joke of it. Then you should be good to go without a paint job and not offend as many people.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#34
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If it has a SD title..then you should be good to go..
My GT is Cdn spec...only real diff would be the speedometer and maybe driving lights. Easy fix as the rest is NA spec. The PO brought the car to Cali...titled it there and when I bought it...WA State only cared that it had a Cali title...
Only time one would have an issue with a Cdn car is if it's a "Euro" model (there are some that make it to Canada)...then it would have to go through a registered importer etc..
Hope the title is clean....then you should be good to go..
My GT is Cdn spec...only real diff would be the speedometer and maybe driving lights. Easy fix as the rest is NA spec. The PO brought the car to Cali...titled it there and when I bought it...WA State only cared that it had a Cali title...
Only time one would have an issue with a Cdn car is if it's a "Euro" model (there are some that make it to Canada)...then it would have to go through a registered importer etc..
Hope the title is clean....then you should be good to go..
#35
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This GTS has been discussed here before and there were lots of concern regarding the title issues. My advice would be to make sure you can get it titled before dropping a bunch of money into it.
#36
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll probably cover some of what's already been said...oh, and never listen to what 99% of these guys tell you what a GTS is worth.. they simply do not have a clue!
Guessing you picked the car up for under 10K....good start
First order of business is getting it titled. Don't do a thing until this is complete! If you can't get it titled, sell it for parts and get your money back...and I mean the WHOLE car, not worth the trouble of breaking it down.
If you CAN get it titled, then do your homework and get the history of the car. Its important to know why a GTS that has such low mileage was left to rot. This is a big red flag.
Providing you can get it titled, car history doesn't come up with anything derogatory, then its time to access the damage if you haven't already. Since the process of finding out the previous is going to take a while, this will give you time to do a complete inspection inside and out as well as researching replacement parts and costs. Realistically consider your time as well.
The chances of getting the car to pristine condition and still making a profit is not likely...even if you sold the car in the $50K+ range. You have to consider it will take about a year or so to get it there and that is a lot of hours. You can hunt for clean new looking parts and components, but most of the interior you will probably have to have made. Problem is...not much will be original, so that is going to hurt the value. After its all said and done...cost of materials, time...it's just not worth it. All that loss of time putting into it, you are losing making money somewhere else in your life.
Personally, I think the best option is to salvage what you can that is realistically acceptable, replace the items that really do need replacing (all mechanicals and seals included...and there will be many), clean the hell out of it, paint it and sell at what market will bear at that time. It will all come down to your level of workmanship and what you end up with. Unfortunately, you are not going to be able to compete with original clean GTS's. Once you get to a certain dollar figure, the buyers become more discriminant and are mostly low key. Your target buyer is going to be someone that wants to get into a GTS and won't spend the money (or doesn't have) to get a proper one....there are a lot more of those guys out there.
If you plan on keeping it, then the world is your oyster.
Good luck!
Guessing you picked the car up for under 10K....good start
First order of business is getting it titled. Don't do a thing until this is complete! If you can't get it titled, sell it for parts and get your money back...and I mean the WHOLE car, not worth the trouble of breaking it down.
If you CAN get it titled, then do your homework and get the history of the car. Its important to know why a GTS that has such low mileage was left to rot. This is a big red flag.
Providing you can get it titled, car history doesn't come up with anything derogatory, then its time to access the damage if you haven't already. Since the process of finding out the previous is going to take a while, this will give you time to do a complete inspection inside and out as well as researching replacement parts and costs. Realistically consider your time as well.
The chances of getting the car to pristine condition and still making a profit is not likely...even if you sold the car in the $50K+ range. You have to consider it will take about a year or so to get it there and that is a lot of hours. You can hunt for clean new looking parts and components, but most of the interior you will probably have to have made. Problem is...not much will be original, so that is going to hurt the value. After its all said and done...cost of materials, time...it's just not worth it. All that loss of time putting into it, you are losing making money somewhere else in your life.
Personally, I think the best option is to salvage what you can that is realistically acceptable, replace the items that really do need replacing (all mechanicals and seals included...and there will be many), clean the hell out of it, paint it and sell at what market will bear at that time. It will all come down to your level of workmanship and what you end up with. Unfortunately, you are not going to be able to compete with original clean GTS's. Once you get to a certain dollar figure, the buyers become more discriminant and are mostly low key. Your target buyer is going to be someone that wants to get into a GTS and won't spend the money (or doesn't have) to get a proper one....there are a lot more of those guys out there.
If you plan on keeping it, then the world is your oyster.
Good luck!
#37
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OH...wow..forgot about that one.... This the South Dakota "flood" sitting open for a while GTS... I can't paste the thread link..but search for "South Dakota GTS" and you'll find the other threads... Sounds like the title is branded...so my opinion at this point is...track it.. or part it...
#38
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think a satin black wrap would just blow peoples minds when looking at it. You will not believe what they can do with wraps these days and they look so good you will be hard pressed to prove it is wrapped from any direction. If you decide to part it out, I will trade you my 86.5 with newly rebuilt engine for it...LOL hate to see one this nice get parted out.
#39
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Michigan... Grand Rapids
Posts: 758
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I went to the secretary of state / DMV on my lunch hour and got some bad news. Well let me back up a step first. A couple years ago I bought a Mazda Trubute from Minnesota on Copart for my daughter. There was an issue with the title and I didn't get it with the car, after putting me through the ringer Copart told me I was SOL. So I went to the secretary of state and they did a some kind of special search and bingo... they gave me a clean title. I figured I could do the same thing here, but they changed the rules a couple months ago and will no longer to that
So it looks like either a long drawn out process now or I take the easy route and part the car
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#40
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Washington "Dc"
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#41
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry maybe I missed something in the thread, but has it ever been registered in the us? I have some connections here in Canada and may be able to help. Pm me the vin. We can talk more in PM.
#42
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Would hate to see the car get parted. I was actually going to look at it in Sioux falls but then it was sold. If a title was not obtainable I would find another 928 to use as a shell and switch the vin. I know most people would not do it but if you legally own the car the real crime is the beuracratic pinheads who make it almost impossible to title a car that you legally own and is street legal. Hell, you can transfer legal ownership of a 300K tractor with a bill of sale on a napkin. Yet they make you part out a classic car as being worthless to most people without a title.
#43
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
#44
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Michigan... Grand Rapids
Posts: 758
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Nice one Randy.. NOT!!..
Actually I quite respect Keiths opinion. Hey his car rocked, and he sold it for a good fair price. Plus the fact that he took the time to say all that he did and not just make some cheap shot.
Actually I quite respect Keiths opinion. Hey his car rocked, and he sold it for a good fair price. Plus the fact that he took the time to say all that he did and not just make some cheap shot.
#45
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Meanwhile, back in the land of the “real”, I’m with Keith. Half the crowd that says keep it and flip it are the same ones that would immediately shoot holes in it here on Renlist the minute it was posted on e-bay if it wasn’t perfect—and even then, some would still say it was overpriced. “Oh, look at that (fill in the blank)”, and “What about connecting rods on 93’s”, “I’d never buy a flood damaged vehicle”, “GTS’ are oil hogs”, "Porsche knew the oiling sucked on GTS'" etc.
If the body condition is any indicator, I’m guessing it will probably need the stuff below too. That alone is $18.4 and does not include labor. If the title doesn’t pan out and you don’t want to keep it for your own enjoyment, I’d be on it like Vince with a slap-chop.
Interior = $2K
Paint = $6K
Shocks/springs = $1K
Brakes/rotors = $1K
Tires and alignment = $1K
Rims = $1K
Rubber seals (door, window scrapers) = $1K
TB/WP = $800
Radiator (probably) $700
Exhaust = $2K
PS hoses = $500
Belly pans = $400
Radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc = $500
Dump all fluids (and hope the PSD isn’t rusted) = $300
MM/OPG = $200
Plugs, rotors, plug wires, bad sensors, broke seat switches, inop window switches, etc., etc., etc.,
If the body condition is any indicator, I’m guessing it will probably need the stuff below too. That alone is $18.4 and does not include labor. If the title doesn’t pan out and you don’t want to keep it for your own enjoyment, I’d be on it like Vince with a slap-chop.
Interior = $2K
Paint = $6K
Shocks/springs = $1K
Brakes/rotors = $1K
Tires and alignment = $1K
Rims = $1K
Rubber seals (door, window scrapers) = $1K
TB/WP = $800
Radiator (probably) $700
Exhaust = $2K
PS hoses = $500
Belly pans = $400
Radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc = $500
Dump all fluids (and hope the PSD isn’t rusted) = $300
MM/OPG = $200
Plugs, rotors, plug wires, bad sensors, broke seat switches, inop window switches, etc., etc., etc.,