coupler help
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,355
Likes: 188
From: Oakland CA
coupler help
I just installed a new PP and clutch assembly, Every thing seems Ok but I cannot
Get the both bolts into the coupler. The forward bolt (nearest the guide tube
is easy but I cannot get the back one on. Tried for hours. Do I need to loosen the PP
Also with the new clutch and PP in place it is really hard to turn the engine
I have 30#s torque on each bolt holding the PP on. Is this the reason?
On my back
Van
Get the both bolts into the coupler. The forward bolt (nearest the guide tube
is easy but I cannot get the back one on. Tried for hours. Do I need to loosen the PP
Also with the new clutch and PP in place it is really hard to turn the engine
I have 30#s torque on each bolt holding the PP on. Is this the reason?
On my back
Van
Archive Gatekeeper
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 18,777
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From: Irvine, CA
PET shows all sorts of screwy changes in the torque tube, intermediate shaft, and intermediate shaft coupler part numbers in 1980. But all of that is moot if you didn't change any of the parts that were in there before.
What clutch components did you end up putting back in? IIRC you had a complete S4+ single-disk setup. Did you change any pieces other than the friction disc?
Can you slide the intermediate shaft forwards and back a little bit to see if you can get the rear coupler to line up on the indent in the TT shaft?
Proper torque on a single disc PP to flywheel bolt is 17 ft lbs. So 30 is too much but that's not going to change the fitment or geometry of anything.
What clutch components did you end up putting back in? IIRC you had a complete S4+ single-disk setup. Did you change any pieces other than the friction disc?
Can you slide the intermediate shaft forwards and back a little bit to see if you can get the rear coupler to line up on the indent in the TT shaft?
Proper torque on a single disc PP to flywheel bolt is 17 ft lbs. So 30 is too much but that's not going to change the fitment or geometry of anything.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,355
Likes: 188
From: Oakland CA
Rob
I replaced the PP and the friction disk along with the new TO bearing. It's a Sachs unit
I will back off the bolts, I was thinking maybe I should loosen all of them then try and get the coupler bolted on correctly, then tighten the bolts on the PP.
Yes, I kept the single disk. The guide tube is the same. The coupler slides back and forth ok, nothing appears to be bound up.
I replaced the PP and the friction disk along with the new TO bearing. It's a Sachs unit
I will back off the bolts, I was thinking maybe I should loosen all of them then try and get the coupler bolted on correctly, then tighten the bolts on the PP.
Yes, I kept the single disk. The guide tube is the same. The coupler slides back and forth ok, nothing appears to be bound up.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,355
Likes: 188
From: Oakland CA
Thanks Colin
This is exactly my problem, any tricks or just patience?
Also turning the crank is really hard, this must be too much pressure from the friction disk to the flywheel. This is why I am thinking I must have the PP too tight.
Is this possible?
This is exactly my problem, any tricks or just patience?
Also turning the crank is really hard, this must be too much pressure from the friction disk to the flywheel. This is why I am thinking I must have the PP too tight.
Is this possible?
Archive Gatekeeper
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Irvine, CA
Huh. Well if the intermediate shaft is the same, and it is fully inserted into the pilot bearing in the crank, then I'm not sure how they cannot line up- unless the TT shaft somehow moved a bit? Did you try removing the bolt from the forward end of the coupler, insert the rear bolt first, then move the intermediate shaft so you can get the front bolt in?
Pretty sure the coupler is symmetric, I don't think they can be installed 'backwards'....
While you're on your back, you should slide back to the rear TT shaft coupler at the transmission and re-torque that bolt (to at least 59 ft lbs, some will advise an extra ~10% up to 66 ft-lbs.)
Pretty sure the coupler is symmetric, I don't think they can be installed 'backwards'....
While you're on your back, you should slide back to the rear TT shaft coupler at the transmission and re-torque that bolt (to at least 59 ft lbs, some will advise an extra ~10% up to 66 ft-lbs.)
Last edited by Rob Edwards; Feb 23, 2012 at 01:46 PM.
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Joe Kucinski
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,189
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From: Philly PA
have you checked the rear pinch bolt by the transaxle, and that the drive shaft is centered in the input of the transaxle?
If it all came apart easily then the most likely reason is that the stub shaft isnt into the pilot bearing.
NOTE once the stub shaft goes into the pilot bearing you want to pull it back a few MMs so it wont be bottomed out on the pilot bearing this should let the other slots line up correctly.
NOTE the line up will all be predicated on the fact that the rear pinch screw has been removed and the driveshaft is correctly centered in the trans input shaft then the rear bolt is installed with blue loctite and torqued to 66ft/lbs then the front coupler is installed.
NOTE if you need to move the driveshaft simply put the front coupler in position on the front of the driveshaft and tighten the rear bolt of the front coupler then you pry on the driveshaft coupler or tap the coupler with a hammer to move it into a centered position at the transaxle input shaft.
For your issue you may have to pry the release arm back and then push the stub shaft into the pilot bearing , its easier to do this with two people you can use the coupler to this just install the front bolt into the coupler and tighten it so you have a hand hold
If it all came apart easily then the most likely reason is that the stub shaft isnt into the pilot bearing.
NOTE once the stub shaft goes into the pilot bearing you want to pull it back a few MMs so it wont be bottomed out on the pilot bearing this should let the other slots line up correctly.
NOTE the line up will all be predicated on the fact that the rear pinch screw has been removed and the driveshaft is correctly centered in the trans input shaft then the rear bolt is installed with blue loctite and torqued to 66ft/lbs then the front coupler is installed.
NOTE if you need to move the driveshaft simply put the front coupler in position on the front of the driveshaft and tighten the rear bolt of the front coupler then you pry on the driveshaft coupler or tap the coupler with a hammer to move it into a centered position at the transaxle input shaft.
For your issue you may have to pry the release arm back and then push the stub shaft into the pilot bearing , its easier to do this with two people you can use the coupler to this just install the front bolt into the coupler and tighten it so you have a hand hold
Last edited by Mrmerlin; Feb 23, 2012 at 03:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,355
Likes: 188
From: Oakland CA
I have tried for hours and hours trying to get the coupler bolted in. Followed all suggestions and still cannot get both bolts in
I have about 1mm of shaft protruding into the either hole.
Can anyone tell me by this picture if the pilot shaft is not in far enough? If so how can this be. Should i take everything apart and start over?
I have lossend the bolt at the end of the TT and pried back the drive shaft as far as it
wants to go.
I am really frustrated with this supposedly simple DIY
Van
I have about 1mm of shaft protruding into the either hole.
Can anyone tell me by this picture if the pilot shaft is not in far enough? If so how can this be. Should i take everything apart and start over?
I have lossend the bolt at the end of the TT and pried back the drive shaft as far as it
wants to go.
I am really frustrated with this supposedly simple DIY
Van
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,355
Likes: 188
From: Oakland CA
Coupler - remove clutch pack again?
Can any one tell me by looking at this photo if I need to RR the clutch pack again
I am thinking the pilot shaft is not bedded correctly even though everything
turns and looks OK???????????????????
I am thinking the pilot shaft is not bedded correctly even though everything
turns and looks OK???????????????????
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 6
From: Louisville KY
Both your input shaft and your torque tube shaft have an indent that the bolt goes through. Obviously, you have it lined up on the clutch shaft because the bolt is already in. You need to line it up on the tt shaft as well. You should be able to just use a large screwdriver as a pry bar and move the coupler back/forth until you find the indent on the tt shaft which you will be able to see through the coupler bolt hole.
Here is a picture of the three items that you are working with disassembled.
Here is a picture of the three items that you are working with disassembled.