MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR CLEANER
#17
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The burn off can only deal with moderate deposits on the wire. A good MAF cleaner is always worth a try, don't use a contact cleaner as they have other additives.
Don't be too agressive with the wire, it's only 80micron diameter !
Don't be too agressive with the wire, it's only 80micron diameter !
#18
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MAF cleaner has no acetone in it, unlike brake cleaner, so it is plastic-safe. Not sure about contact cleaner. Check the ingredient label.
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Took my GTS in for it's annual emmisions test and it passed by the slimmest margin. The next year I used the CRC MAF cleaner and it passed with flying colors. Nothing else done with the engine during the year between checks. So yes it works!
#22
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Used CRC MAF cleaner also.Did it on the car took the top screen out and put paper towels inside so it wouldn't go into the intake boot.Sprayed some then changed the towels and did it over again,instead of putting too much at a time and getting by the towels.Car started ok after.Used the small jewelers screw driver to pop the big clip to get the top screen out.
#23
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I have been used MAF cleaner with good results. Idle was much more stable and slightly better throttle response. The hotwire was dark before, but using whole bottle, it was clear again.
Used CRC brand and all of them are based on isopropanol, which is basically pure alcohol..
Contaminated hotwire cannot recognize minimal air flow or it's changes, therefore the cleaner helped for idle and low rpm throttle response.
Somewhere at 80'es we used to clean computer masstorge read/write heads using isopropanol, so it cannot harm the hotwire either
Used CRC brand and all of them are based on isopropanol, which is basically pure alcohol..
Contaminated hotwire cannot recognize minimal air flow or it's changes, therefore the cleaner helped for idle and low rpm throttle response.
Somewhere at 80'es we used to clean computer masstorge read/write heads using isopropanol, so it cannot harm the hotwire either
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#25
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After cleaning the MAF you should diconnect the battery for an hour or so to reset the ECU, then drive the car to remap the settings.
#27
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"5 seconds are quite long enough..."
John,
I read that and nodded, then after I clicked on to the next thread a random thought intruded...
Suppose that an owner had a killer audio system installed, with an always-on power supply (yeah, poor practice) that had a few hellaciously big capacitors - given that we hope for 30 - 100 mA of current drain, how long would it take for the power to completely go away?
John,
I read that and nodded, then after I clicked on to the next thread a random thought intruded...
Suppose that an owner had a killer audio system installed, with an always-on power supply (yeah, poor practice) that had a few hellaciously big capacitors - given that we hope for 30 - 100 mA of current drain, how long would it take for the power to completely go away?
#30
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"5 seconds are quite long enough..."
John,
I read that and nodded, then after I clicked on to the next thread a random thought intruded...
Suppose that an owner had a killer audio system installed, with an always-on power supply (yeah, poor practice) that had a few hellaciously big capacitors - given that we hope for 30 - 100 mA of current drain, how long would it take for the power to completely go away?
John,
I read that and nodded, then after I clicked on to the next thread a random thought intruded...
Suppose that an owner had a killer audio system installed, with an always-on power supply (yeah, poor practice) that had a few hellaciously big capacitors - given that we hope for 30 - 100 mA of current drain, how long would it take for the power to completely go away?