GTS Cam Broke What Would You Do?
02-08-2012, 11:29 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
#5 Colins cams /lindsey springs / stock lifters / shark tune . If you do that you will find the exhaust system is the next major power restriction . Been there done that . check out a thread ( its alive ! ) on Reutterwerks , there is even a sound clip.
02-08-2012, 11:49 AM
#17
Drifting
I haven't heard issues from the Audi guys running them. I have them in my Audi and spin it to 8300 with stiff springs and 10.5mm (.413") lift cams. It's got about 15k miles on that topend and it still works perfectly.
02-08-2012, 12:53 PM
#18
Passenger side is fine.
My suggestion, you wanted to do the cams anyway and you have several choices to choose from. I'd say get the GT cams or Colins, GT cams will the lesser expense route since you won't need to change the springs. Will be more gains with Colins and what's this about Colins not being hardened and will wear out quicker?
My suggestion, you wanted to do the cams anyway and you have several choices to choose from. I'd say get the GT cams or Colins, GT cams will the lesser expense route since you won't need to change the springs. Will be more gains with Colins and what's this about Colins not being hardened and will wear out quicker?
02-08-2012, 01:00 PM
#21
02-08-2012, 01:05 PM
#22
Race Director
so you have to pull one head for sure......so you also have to pull the engine....
My thinking.....get better cams & proper valve springs....maybe some light porting at the same time.... That should get you around 350whp.....and still have good driveability....
Of course......the ultimate option is to send the lump to Doc Brown.....with a LARGE check....
I also agree with the JOY of schooling far newer more expensive rides at the track-autocross....of course I do it in my bucket...which makes it that much WORSE for them....:>)
My thinking.....get better cams & proper valve springs....maybe some light porting at the same time.... That should get you around 350whp.....and still have good driveability....
Of course......the ultimate option is to send the lump to Doc Brown.....with a LARGE check....
I also agree with the JOY of schooling far newer more expensive rides at the track-autocross....of course I do it in my bucket...which makes it that much WORSE for them....:>)
02-08-2012, 01:24 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Richard,
You know the driver's side head has to come off, if you say the passenger side it OK fair enough but you are very fortunate if it is- check very carefully. When my S4 motor ran down during my crash it bent two inlet valves- no mark on the piston whatsoever other than a little chip of carbon deposit displaced.
Next question- do you pull the motor or work in situ- guesss Sean knows the anwser to that one. A set of GT cams will cost close to to or equal that of Colin's cams. You will need a set of springs for those cams much less so with GT cams [nice to have but not necessary unless you really hammer the motor on the track].
Motor out heads off is going to cost 40 hours minimum [?]- if so $4k at $100/hr [unless Sean is cheap]?
Cams $2k 'ish? Valve springs- $500. gaskets $500. Valve job? Total cost $7k plus? Sharktuning /dyno another $1k?
it seems to me to boil down to a choice of $5k to get back to a stock position or an extra $2k to get a decent upgrade- knowing the former is inevitable I think I would dig a little deeper and optimise bang for the buck as it were.
Regards
Fred
You know the driver's side head has to come off, if you say the passenger side it OK fair enough but you are very fortunate if it is- check very carefully. When my S4 motor ran down during my crash it bent two inlet valves- no mark on the piston whatsoever other than a little chip of carbon deposit displaced.
Next question- do you pull the motor or work in situ- guesss Sean knows the anwser to that one. A set of GT cams will cost close to to or equal that of Colin's cams. You will need a set of springs for those cams much less so with GT cams [nice to have but not necessary unless you really hammer the motor on the track].
Motor out heads off is going to cost 40 hours minimum [?]- if so $4k at $100/hr [unless Sean is cheap]?
Cams $2k 'ish? Valve springs- $500. gaskets $500. Valve job? Total cost $7k plus? Sharktuning /dyno another $1k?
it seems to me to boil down to a choice of $5k to get back to a stock position or an extra $2k to get a decent upgrade- knowing the former is inevitable I think I would dig a little deeper and optimise bang for the buck as it were.
Regards
Fred
02-08-2012, 01:24 PM
#24
Gt cams and good springs, do both heads. Pan gasket, seals. Maybe oil pan spacer with early pickup. If it had any other rods inspecting 2-6 main bearings would be a no brainer since the car has some track time. We ALL KNOW unless you are Kibort you can get away with maybe 10 hours of D E continuos lapping before you risk 2-6 rod bearing failure. Doc in Texas with his GT got much less than that.
02-08-2012, 01:59 PM
#25
Drifting
02-08-2012, 02:33 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
To remove and check 32 valves and do everything else likely to need doing in Richard's case to get the plot up and running again will probablly take a minimum of 40 hours and if you can do it quicker then you may be on to something the likes of Greg Brown and Sean do not know but I would not hold my breath in anticipation. For sure I am not the quickest wrench in the world but then no motor I ever worked on grenaded. See Greg's infamous quote about not all mechanics being the same!
For sure it would be interesting to see other estimates but I believe the factory numbers for a complete engine pull, strip, rebuild and installation is 140 hours so I will stick with my estimate for the time being.
Of course one assumes that the totality of work involved is obvious to all those reading- apologies if that is not quite the case.
Best wishes
Fred
02-08-2012, 03:46 PM
#27
John,
To remove and check 32 valves and do everything else likely to need doing in Richard's case to get the plot up and running again will probablly take a minimum of 40 hours and if you can do it quicker then you may be on to something the likes of Greg Brown and Sean do not know but I would not hold my breath in anticipation. For sure I am not the quickest wrench in the world but then no motor I ever worked on grenaded. See Greg's infamous quote about not all mechanics being the same!
For sure it would be interesting to see other estimates but I believe the factory numbers for a complete engine pull, strip, rebuild and installation is 140 hours so I will stick with my estimate for the time being.
Of course one assumes that the totality of work involved is obvious to all those reading- apologies if that is not quite the case.
Best wishes
Fred
To remove and check 32 valves and do everything else likely to need doing in Richard's case to get the plot up and running again will probablly take a minimum of 40 hours and if you can do it quicker then you may be on to something the likes of Greg Brown and Sean do not know but I would not hold my breath in anticipation. For sure I am not the quickest wrench in the world but then no motor I ever worked on grenaded. See Greg's infamous quote about not all mechanics being the same!
For sure it would be interesting to see other estimates but I believe the factory numbers for a complete engine pull, strip, rebuild and installation is 140 hours so I will stick with my estimate for the time being.
Of course one assumes that the totality of work involved is obvious to all those reading- apologies if that is not quite the case.
Best wishes
Fred
02-08-2012, 04:24 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sean tells me he can pull just the one head without pulling the motor. Andy has offered to give me his GTS cams.
Now taking paypal donations rkd@zipbang.com to do it right i.e. pull the motor, inspect bottom end, porting, valves, guides, springs and GT or better cams.
Now taking paypal donations rkd@zipbang.com to do it right i.e. pull the motor, inspect bottom end, porting, valves, guides, springs and GT or better cams.