After market front Sway Bar
02-08-2012, 01:43 PM
#16
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I have my devek bar at full stiff. no issues with wheel lifting, with my overall set up. however, there is so mcuh force there, that ive blown out the attachment points several times.. a minor reinforcement of the swaybar mounts is all i needed to do to make sure sure it was strong enough to support the bar and not tear it off the subframe
02-08-2012, 01:48 PM
#17
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Mark
The drop link has to go from the lower shock mount down to the eye on the sway bar. If you move the attachment point rewards on the sway bar there is an interference problem with the adjusting rods comming from the steering rack as mentioned earlier. Look at the picture Jeff posted.
The drop link has to go from the lower shock mount down to the eye on the sway bar. If you move the attachment point rewards on the sway bar there is an interference problem with the adjusting rods comming from the steering rack as mentioned earlier. Look at the picture Jeff posted.
02-08-2012, 01:54 PM
#18
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Mark
The drop link has to go from the lower shock mount down to the eye on the sway bar. If you move the attachment point rewards on the sway bar there is an interference problem with the adjusting rods comming from the steering rack as mentioned earlier. Look at the picture Jeff posted.
The drop link has to go from the lower shock mount down to the eye on the sway bar. If you move the attachment point rewards on the sway bar there is an interference problem with the adjusting rods comming from the steering rack as mentioned earlier. Look at the picture Jeff posted.
02-08-2012, 01:57 PM
#19
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the bar shouldnt lift the inside wheel . the bar's purpose is to add spring rate stifness, and the cost of the front of the car actually lowering. if the the front wheel lifts off the ground, thats the opposite rear wheel being set up with too soft of a spring, or not enough rear sway bar.
I have my devek bar at full stiff. no issues with wheel lifting, with my overall set up. however, there is so mcuh force there, that ive blown out the attachment points several times.. a minor reinforcement of the swaybar mounts is all i needed to do to make sure sure it was strong enough to support the bar and not tear it off the subframe
I have my devek bar at full stiff. no issues with wheel lifting, with my overall set up. however, there is so mcuh force there, that ive blown out the attachment points several times.. a minor reinforcement of the swaybar mounts is all i needed to do to make sure sure it was strong enough to support the bar and not tear it off the subframe
I'm going to send Brian my Devek bar to try and see if it helps. Before we start redesinging and building prototypes.
02-08-2012, 03:23 PM
#20
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Sterling any Idea what the rate is on the DR bar? I'm interested.I have 928 motorsports bar on my street car and it lifts the inside wheel in tight corners.
.120 wall tube. so too stiff I'm thinking.
.120 wall tube. so too stiff I'm thinking.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ontswaybar.php
.120 wall is out softest bar. If the front wheel is coming up, consider the frame to be twisting too much (we have a brace for that), or the sway bar is not stiff enough, alllowing too much roll. You must have some pretty good tires on there! FYI: I use the .250" wall bar (our strongest bar) and do NOT get inside front tire lift in corners.
02-08-2012, 03:36 PM
#21
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Carl
I have your frame braces both upper and lower.Tires are 275 toyos or Hoosiers. I really commit to a corner on turn in. I think my rear springs are too soft ( 600/ 300 I bought them from you) remember this problem is on my street car. Neither of my race cars has this problem.
By the way Carl I really dislike the hookie little aluminum piece that attaches the drop link to the lower control arm, I keep breaking the tiny 6mm or 8mm bolt that attaches it to the lower shock mount. Have you made any changes or improvements to that attachment set up?
I have your frame braces both upper and lower.Tires are 275 toyos or Hoosiers. I really commit to a corner on turn in. I think my rear springs are too soft ( 600/ 300 I bought them from you) remember this problem is on my street car. Neither of my race cars has this problem.
By the way Carl I really dislike the hookie little aluminum piece that attaches the drop link to the lower control arm, I keep breaking the tiny 6mm or 8mm bolt that attaches it to the lower shock mount. Have you made any changes or improvements to that attachment set up?
02-08-2012, 03:50 PM
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02-08-2012, 04:12 PM
#24
Drifting
OK, measurements appear to be ~28mm diameter. I actually got 1.13" = 28.7mm or so, but it could be my crappy caliper. Needs a little cleaning, includes everything shown.
The steel bushing on the passenger side drop link is missing (reduces the heim joint down to the shock bolt, as seen on the other side). You could probably find a suitable replacement from McMaster Carr or similar, or have one machined to match the other side for what I would think would be pretty inexpensive.
The clamps for the drop links can be slid on the bar for harder/softer. Some slight road rash on the bottom, but nothing to be concerned about. It's solid and heavy!
I'd take $95 + actual UPS shipping. I was thinking more like $125 + ship at first (that's what I paid for another used one I have installed on our race car), but given that I can't find the bushing, I think $95 sounds about right.
The steel bushing on the passenger side drop link is missing (reduces the heim joint down to the shock bolt, as seen on the other side). You could probably find a suitable replacement from McMaster Carr or similar, or have one machined to match the other side for what I would think would be pretty inexpensive.
The clamps for the drop links can be slid on the bar for harder/softer. Some slight road rash on the bottom, but nothing to be concerned about. It's solid and heavy!
I'd take $95 + actual UPS shipping. I was thinking more like $125 + ship at first (that's what I paid for another used one I have installed on our race car), but given that I can't find the bushing, I think $95 sounds about right.
02-08-2012, 05:10 PM
#26
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I sent my none fitting (9J Kinesis Wheels) front sway bar back to DR but as of now (over a year later) nothing. This is a shame because his sway bars were the best.
Sterling - Even though I paid for my DR sway bar (cut your losses Roger 8>)) I would be interested in buying yours so I can get it modified myself.
Sterling - Even though I paid for my DR sway bar (cut your losses Roger 8>)) I would be interested in buying yours so I can get it modified myself.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
02-09-2012, 12:29 AM
#30
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Driver preference..its all in YOUR setup.
I had an 83 RX7 in spec racing, that NOBODY else could drive and come out thinking it was 'right'. Yet, the line of $12 series trophies says it was setup right for me.