MAF Adjustment ??
02-05-2012, 02:06 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Sorry Joel, I was mis-remembering a plug picture from another thread...
If you have a multimeter, then you pull the MAF, measure between pins 6 and 4 with the meter on ohms.
The pin numbers are marked on the MAF connector. Turn the 3mm hex adjuster to set the ressistance to 386 to start with. It is a multi-turn pot, so you may need several turns.
Plug in the EZ-F octane loop as Ken suggests, for safety.
If you have a multimeter, then you pull the MAF, measure between pins 6 and 4 with the meter on ohms.
The pin numbers are marked on the MAF connector. Turn the 3mm hex adjuster to set the ressistance to 386 to start with. It is a multi-turn pot, so you may need several turns.
Plug in the EZ-F octane loop as Ken suggests, for safety.
02-05-2012, 02:10 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I'll plug them together for the short term until I can get the MAF tested. Does pluggin in the "octane loop" decrease the performance gains of the chipset?Air temp sensor (which one is that?) If its on the bottom of the airbox - yes, its connected.
WOT Switch is working (where is that? and how do I test it?)
Adjust MAF CO to 382 - (same issue - how do I test it?)
Sorry to bother you, but I'm at a TOTAL loss on the tech side. And, your the most tech savy guy that I know of... yeah, I'm kissin' up
As always, any help is GREATLY appreciated!!
02-05-2012, 02:13 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Sorry Joel, I was mis-remembering a plug picture from another thread...
If you have a multimeter, then you pull the MAF, measure between pins 6 and 4 with the meter on ohms.
The pin numbers are marked on the MAF connector. Turn the 3mm hex adjuster to set the ressistance to 386 to start with. It is a multi-turn pot, so you may need several turns.
Plug in the EZ-F octane loop as Ken suggests, for safety.
If you have a multimeter, then you pull the MAF, measure between pins 6 and 4 with the meter on ohms.
The pin numbers are marked on the MAF connector. Turn the 3mm hex adjuster to set the ressistance to 386 to start with. It is a multi-turn pot, so you may need several turns.
Plug in the EZ-F octane loop as Ken suggests, for safety.
02-05-2012, 02:44 PM
#19
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Plugging the octane loop together connects the air temp sensor input wires together, making the EZ think the air temp is very high all the time. With my EZ chip, this will make the chip near stock (IE. no performance 
).
Here are the pinouts for the EZ/LH plugs - (EZF_LH22_32V.pdf)
For the WOT switch, use a test light to check for ground at pin 12 on the LH plug with the pedal to the floor. (Or continuity between pins 12 and 25.)
While you have your multimeter out, check the resistance of the air temp sensor on the EZ plug between pins 10 and 22. Should be over 1K cold, low hundreds hot.
You can also check the CO adjustment at the LH plug.
).Here are the pinouts for the EZ/LH plugs - (EZF_LH22_32V.pdf)
For the WOT switch, use a test light to check for ground at pin 12 on the LH plug with the pedal to the floor. (Or continuity between pins 12 and 25.)
While you have your multimeter out, check the resistance of the air temp sensor on the EZ plug between pins 10 and 22. Should be over 1K cold, low hundreds hot.
You can also check the CO adjustment at the LH plug.
02-05-2012, 02:59 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Joel, in case you missed it, here is THE thread on MAF adjustment https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-85-86-us.html.
I had a tiny knock with the S300 chips under light load. I believe it was due (partially) to running a 92 Octane chip with crappy 91 California gas. So, I pulled the chips (and 87 FPR) and went back to stock. Since then, I have readjusted my MAF and sorted every conceivable vacuum leak. I plan on going back to the Porken set-up once I replace my O2, get my MAF rebuilt and replace my injectors. I will also be buying Ken's 89 chip to be on the safe side.
Since we do not have a knock sensor in our model, I believe it is vital to have you car in tip-top shape before you venture into performance upgrades. Engine knocking is very bad. While I miss the giddy-up of the S300, I want to be sure going forward that everything is perfect.
I had a tiny knock with the S300 chips under light load. I believe it was due (partially) to running a 92 Octane chip with crappy 91 California gas. So, I pulled the chips (and 87 FPR) and went back to stock. Since then, I have readjusted my MAF and sorted every conceivable vacuum leak. I plan on going back to the Porken set-up once I replace my O2, get my MAF rebuilt and replace my injectors. I will also be buying Ken's 89 chip to be on the safe side.
Since we do not have a knock sensor in our model, I believe it is vital to have you car in tip-top shape before you venture into performance upgrades. Engine knocking is very bad. While I miss the giddy-up of the S300, I want to be sure going forward that everything is perfect.
02-05-2012, 03:19 PM
#21
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Michael - V3.6 has more air temp retard >80F/27C, and there is a 91 octane version, as well. (Basically for California.)
Cam timing is important too, although usually not the first thing to check. >2° advance requires the next lower octane chip.
Although it affects part throttle performance, and mileage, not WOT, John's suggestion to check for vacuum at the EZ hose at idle is something I always forget. With low to no vacuum, the EZ thinks the engine is at WOT, all the time, retarding the ignition timing a bunch. (It's easy to have something disconnected at the 7-way splitter.)
Cam timing is important too, although usually not the first thing to check. >2° advance requires the next lower octane chip.
Although it affects part throttle performance, and mileage, not WOT, John's suggestion to check for vacuum at the EZ hose at idle is something I always forget. With low to no vacuum, the EZ thinks the engine is at WOT, all the time, retarding the ignition timing a bunch. (It's easy to have something disconnected at the 7-way splitter.)
02-05-2012, 03:24 PM
#22
Nordschleife Master
Michael - V3.6 has more air temp retard >80F/27C, and there is a 91 octane version, as well. (Basically for California.)
Cam timing is important too, although usually not the first thing to check. >2° advance requires the next lower octane chip.
Although it affects part throttle performance, not WOT, John's suggestion to check for vacuum at the EZ hose at idle is something I always forget. It's easy to have something disconnected at the 7-way splitter. With low to no vacuum, the EZ thinks the engine is at WOT, all the time.
Cam timing is important too, although usually not the first thing to check. >2° advance requires the next lower octane chip.
Although it affects part throttle performance, not WOT, John's suggestion to check for vacuum at the EZ hose at idle is something I always forget. It's easy to have something disconnected at the 7-way splitter. With low to no vacuum, the EZ thinks the engine is at WOT, all the time.
My timing is dead on and I have no perceptible vacuum leaks (I pulled the spec vacuum from the EZK). I will also have access to your blink'r tool when I revert back to Porken Power.
02-05-2012, 04:38 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Guys, Thanks for bearing with me as I try to determine the issue... ID'ing a certain sound / issue is hard enough... much less over the internet 
I've installed the new O2 Sensor and bumped up the idle (currently between the third mark & 1K rpm). Is that too high??
Surging is practically gone and the car can roll easily in 1st or 2nd with light throttle and no surging I still hear some ticking/pinging when I drop the hammer and then only initially - it disappears as the engine takes off (like a freakin' rocket by the way). It does not repeat this sound while revving the engine in the driveway (only under load) - not sure what to think about that. I do have one fuel injector clicking loudly, but no idle stumble or anything. Could the injector be making the noise I'm hearing?
The EZF is getting vacuum - dont have a guage but appears to have lots of vac pressure via the "put it on the end of your finger" test I havent tested or adjusted the MAF - but I'm working on it. I'll repost as I progress. Thanks!
I've installed the new O2 Sensor and bumped up the idle (currently between the third mark & 1K rpm). Is that too high??Surging is practically gone and the car can roll easily in 1st or 2nd with light throttle and no surging
I still hear some ticking/pinging when I drop the hammer and then only initially - it disappears as the engine takes off (like a freakin' rocket by the way). It does not repeat this sound while revving the engine in the driveway (only under load) - not sure what to think about that. I do have one fuel injector clicking loudly, but no idle stumble or anything. Could the injector be making the noise I'm hearing?The EZF is getting vacuum - dont have a guage but appears to have lots of vac pressure via the "put it on the end of your finger" test
I havent tested or adjusted the MAF - but I'm working on it. I'll repost as I progress. Thanks!
02-05-2012, 04:50 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
It's not unlikely that you have one or more injectors not flowing fully, this will make some cylinders run weaker than the rest and be at a risk of knock.
If you're going to fit a performance chip that takes away some of the safety margins that Porsche built in for less than perfect engine sytstems, then you need to make your car "perfect" to use them safely.
If you're going to fit a performance chip that takes away some of the safety margins that Porsche built in for less than perfect engine sytstems, then you need to make your car "perfect" to use them safely.
02-06-2012, 09:13 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Sorry Joel, I was mis-remembering a plug picture from another thread...
If you have a multimeter, then you pull the MAF, measure between pins 6 and 4 with the meter on ohms.
The pin numbers are marked on the MAF connector. Turn the 3mm hex adjuster to set the ressistance to 386 to start with. It is a multi-turn pot, so you may need several turns.
Plug in the EZ-F octane loop as Ken suggests, for safety.
If you have a multimeter, then you pull the MAF, measure between pins 6 and 4 with the meter on ohms.
The pin numbers are marked on the MAF connector. Turn the 3mm hex adjuster to set the ressistance to 386 to start with. It is a multi-turn pot, so you may need several turns.
Plug in the EZ-F octane loop as Ken suggests, for safety.
Since I have the MAF out I still plan on metering it... Do I measure the ohms between #3 & #6... or #4 & #6... on the MAF. This is with it sitting in my hand - correct?
Thanks! Joel
02-06-2012, 10:30 PM
#26
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
At certain idle speed settings there will be a whistle through the TB. Try adjusting the idle speed up, slightly.
3 and 4 are both grounds.
3 and 4 are both grounds.
02-07-2012, 12:31 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Heres where I'm at. The MAF appears to be fine. Starts right up with no idle issues, idles constant between the top hash mark & 1K rpm, not running rich and doesnt appear to be running lean (plugs look good) and throttle response is immediate.
It is STILL whistling (vac leak) with throttle applied. Doesnt whistle (noticably) while idling but when I hit the throttle you hear it and winds down like a SC when you let off... Hasnt done it since the intake refresh and now all of a sudden here it is again... Frustrating as hell. The whistle is coming from directly under the "T" pipe / TB location. Cant for the life of me figure out the cause. Everything in there is new & snug and I just retightened it all up (again)... really pissin' me off
And, I still have one injector clicking away like Sammy Feakin' Davis Jr on the Tonight Show... Doesnt hurt anything, but its starting to sound like my old Triumph 750 Tiger Oh well, I'll keep on it... Looks like the vac leak is probably the majority of my issue... finding it is the challenge.
I'll take her out in the a.m. to see if the pinging is still there... crossing fingers, but not very hopeful since the vac leak is still there.
Thanks to everyone for the assistance!
Heres where I'm at. The MAF appears to be fine. Starts right up with no idle issues, idles constant between the top hash mark & 1K rpm, not running rich and doesnt appear to be running lean (plugs look good) and throttle response is immediate.
It is STILL whistling (vac leak) with throttle applied. Doesnt whistle (noticably) while idling but when I hit the throttle you hear it and winds down like a SC when you let off... Hasnt done it since the intake refresh and now all of a sudden here it is again... Frustrating as hell. The whistle is coming from directly under the "T" pipe / TB location. Cant for the life of me figure out the cause. Everything in there is new & snug and I just retightened it all up (again)... really pissin' me off
And, I still have one injector clicking away like Sammy Feakin' Davis Jr on the Tonight Show... Doesnt hurt anything, but its starting to sound like my old Triumph 750 Tiger
Oh well, I'll keep on it... Looks like the vac leak is probably the majority of my issue... finding it is the challenge.I'll take her out in the a.m. to see if the pinging is still there... crossing fingers, but not very hopeful since the vac leak is still there.
Thanks to everyone for the assistance!
02-07-2012, 06:32 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
02-08-2012, 12:00 AM
#29
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Surprise, surprise... I found a breather hose from the T/B to the passenger side valve cover WITHOUT a hose clamp (must've missed it when we put her back together). I put on a new hose clamp & retightened both ends, retightened every other hose clamp I could find including all the intake runners and the pinging is NOWHERE to be found... I couldnt hear any whistling either - thats a PLUS!!!
Now before I get toooo excited... someone please remind me that something else will go bad by tomorrow a.m. But for now at least... this problem is solved.
Thanks again for all the help!
Now before I get toooo excited... someone please remind me that something else will go bad by tomorrow a.m.
But for now at least... this problem is solved.Thanks again for all the help!
02-08-2012, 07:35 AM
#30
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joel,
This problem will not return tomorrow. But a different one will.
If you've got an injector problem you should deal with it sooner rather than later. In our cars the injectors are all batch fired and since an injector is basically an electromagnetic switch, I imagine it's possible one could short out. If that happens they're all done as long as that one is connected.
I don't think you can get the Ford Racing ones anymore, but I'm pretty sure you can still get a complete set of 8 for under 3 bills. If you've recently had everything apart it shouldn't be too hard to do this and you won't have to completely remove the intake to do it. Bite the bullet and do everything involved in the fueling and you won't have any regrets afterward.
John Speake makes a great point in post #24 that I think is not stressed enough: By going with these chips/FPR you're pushing your car much closer to the 'edge' than it was ever intended to go stock. You're adding fuel pressure above what was originally called for, you're affecting the ignition timing... There are no safety measures in place in an S3 because we have no knock sensors to retard timing or anything. There is no margin for error in this scenario and no room to say you'll take care of it later if something happens.
Good job finding this problem and enjoy the new setup!
This problem will not return tomorrow. But a different one will.
If you've got an injector problem you should deal with it sooner rather than later. In our cars the injectors are all batch fired and since an injector is basically an electromagnetic switch, I imagine it's possible one could short out. If that happens they're all done as long as that one is connected.
I don't think you can get the Ford Racing ones anymore, but I'm pretty sure you can still get a complete set of 8 for under 3 bills. If you've recently had everything apart it shouldn't be too hard to do this and you won't have to completely remove the intake to do it. Bite the bullet and do everything involved in the fueling and you won't have any regrets afterward.
John Speake makes a great point in post #24 that I think is not stressed enough: By going with these chips/FPR you're pushing your car much closer to the 'edge' than it was ever intended to go stock. You're adding fuel pressure above what was originally called for, you're affecting the ignition timing... There are no safety measures in place in an S3 because we have no knock sensors to retard timing or anything. There is no margin for error in this scenario and no room to say you'll take care of it later if something happens.
Good job finding this problem and enjoy the new setup!
