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Old 01-29-2012, 11:49 PM
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linderpat
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Default Trailer basics

Okay folks - time is starting to get near. As some of you know already, I am leaving Montana and returning to my former lawfirm in Pittsburgh. It has been great here, and I will truely miss it. Montana is a great place, and the people here are as fine as anywhere I've been.
I'll be moving out at the end of March, and will be trailering Blumaxx back. When first bought it, I drove it out from VA - 2000 blissful miles (except for that crazy incident in Soiux Falls - but that's the stuff of lasting adventure; do a search for that full and interesting story).

Anyway, there is no doubt that I could jump in and drive it across the country, but I don't want to put the miles on it (I also drove my former 86.5 across - there is no better road trip car - see the Zen thread). Plus that time of the year is very hard on the exterior of a car - all the road crap sandblasting the front, and so on.

So, I will be renting a U-Haul car trailer. I have several questions for the experts here.
How is the car tied down? The trailers I saw just have front wheel straps - harnesses that go over the front wheels and ratchet in. What else is needed? What secures the rear? If I have to stop fast, I don't want the car flying over the front end of the trailer.
What else do I need to know about this? I've never trailered anything before (in fact, I just had the hitch installed, my SUV - a v-8 Durango - didn't even have a hitch).
Also, should I invest in that clear plastic wrap material to wrap the front edges of the car? Is it good stuff? Will dirt get under it and really screw the paint?
Look forward to the collective thoughts of the group.
Old 01-29-2012, 11:58 PM
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funnporsche
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Best to get a flatbed and get it off of all fours. Otherwise, since it is a 5 speed just strap the front wheels down onto the car dolly and put her in neutral. Rear end will be fine. Just watch out for those wonderful PA Potholes. Good luck.
Old 01-30-2012, 12:22 AM
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linderpat
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Don't want to use a car dolly. Don't want the miles, or the wear and tear. It'll be 4 wheels up.
Old 01-30-2012, 12:28 AM
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928mac
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I used a u-haul trailer but you need some boards to make it work.

Ideally a 6 foot 2x10 for each side with a shorter 3 foot on top.
this gets the air dam up the ramp

But you also need 1 or 2 boards under the front wheels or the front will hit the rail.

if you do this it will be fine, if you don't you risk damaging it.

Brad
Old 01-30-2012, 01:11 AM
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Dwayne
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Hi Ed - too bad you weren't moving further West - it'd be great seeing more of you and Blumaxx. I enjoyed the visit by your place in Montana on my last cross country trip!

I've had great luck with U-Haul trailers with 928s. I've towed Iris from VA to CA with one, I've towed Virginia from NM to CA with one, Towed Idaho from Idaho to CA with one, towed Oregon from Oregon to CA with one, Colorado from Colorado to CA with one and towed the Holbert car from CA to CT with one.

You have to watch the front spoiler clearance over the front wheel stops on the trailer but I don't remember if Blumaxx has a spoiler or not. If so, this is easily solved by placing a 2 X 8 piece of lumber in the front wheel cradle of the trailer and that will give enough clearance. The front wheel straps do a very good job of keeping the car planted on the trailer. Be sure and check the tension on the straps after about 100 miles and re-tighten, if needed. The rear of the car is secured with chains that attach to the rear underside of the car and the trailer. The chains are not tensioned like the front straps but can be "snugged" to help keep the rear end in place in case of hard stops. You'll also set the parking brake when the car is parked on the trailer for transport so it's a good idea to ensure your parking brake is in good order.

I tried plastic wrap and front bras for transport before but ended up removing them part way through the trips because it would rain and the plastic wrap or bra would invariably have a loose place that flapped in the wind allowing dirt and grime to get under the wrap and possibly damage the paint. So now I just put mirror bras on the side mirrors and tow with no cover on the car. The towing vehicle seems to take the brunt of debris. I have not tried any special made products for covering the car during transport so can't comment on how well they do. Perhaps someone here has more experience with special covers.

When renting the trailer, some U-Haul stores have multiple auto-transports available. I ask for their newest trailer when renting. If they aren't sure which is newest/best, ask to see the trailers first and pick the best one to rent.
Old 01-30-2012, 02:35 AM
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terry gt
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Just like to add / make sure the trailer has brakes all 4 wheels / move the car forward so that you have hitch weigh / 4000# gross = 300- 400 # on the ball of the truck / try HD rachet nylon tie down
Old 01-30-2012, 03:16 AM
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pcar928fan
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I am not sure any of the U-haul trailers have brakes, and I am pretty sure most trailers don't have 4 wheel braking... I could be wrong, but that was my impression when I got my trailer and the one time I have used a U-haul...
Old 01-30-2012, 05:39 AM
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Jadz928
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Originally Posted by pcar928fan
I am not sure any of the U-haul trailers have brakes, and I am pretty sure most trailers don't have 4 wheel braking... I could be wrong, but that was my impression when I got my trailer and the one time I have used a U-haul...
That's right James. I think they only have the chain-link actuated emergency brake.

I'm very familiar with the Uhaul car transport and 928s. Ed, it's a piece of cake.
Drive it up, strap it down, and go.

If you want to protect the front, pull it up backwards. The 928 is almost as aerodynamic backwards as frontwards.
Old 01-30-2012, 07:42 AM
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tailpipe
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With my trailer I put 928s on backwards then use crossed chains under the front of the car to the tow hooks so it doesn't crunch the spoiler then just snug up the rear with chains to the lower control arms just be carefull not to bend the thin flat piece I usuall hook the hook over the top flat piece then run the chain under the bearing hub to the front of the trailer. My trailer has no brakes either drive slow and take your time you should be fine.. just a note though in most places now you are required to have brakes over a certain weight and a car on a trailer needs brakes in most states and Canada don't get caught he he
Old 01-30-2012, 07:57 AM
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rgs944
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As stated above already, use an actually car trailer and not just a two wheel dolley. 4 2500 lbs ratcheting tie straps should be sufficient and I would contact a local car dealer to get some of the white shrink wrapping for the front end that they use for new cars. Any of the u-haul trailers should have brakes that are motion activated to apply brake pressure when they get feedback from the tow vehicle that you are stopping. They are designed so you do not need a seperate brake switch on your vehicle. I purchased a retired one a few years back and the build qaulity of the U-haul trailers are remarkable compared to your average car trailer.
Old 01-30-2012, 08:36 AM
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"...the build qaulity of the U-haul trailers are remarkable compared to your average car trailer."

Quite a few years ago, I made a sales call on the central U-Haul repair facility. I asked how long a rental trailer lasted, and was told that they didn't know yet - they had never worn one out. In fact, the founder was retiring, and they had found "old number one" in the system, and were restoring it as a retirement gift. Yep - the first U-Haul trailer ever built was still in service...
Old 01-30-2012, 09:14 AM
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Mrmerlin
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if it doesn't get submerged in salt water not much can happen to a trailer unless it jackknifes
Old 01-30-2012, 09:18 AM
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Thanks guys, excellent stuff!
Old 01-30-2012, 09:23 AM
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Additional question - should it be tightened down so as to to compress the suspension? I read that somewhere too - pull it down hard to eliminate bounce?
Old 01-30-2012, 11:13 AM
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Last I moved...I and another guy at U-Haul spent 15 minutes trying to load my S4. The nose just would not clear the ramps. Another older guy there came out and said to BACK it on. Sure enough it was NO problem backing it on the trailer.

I would not strap it down compressed too much at all. That will send all kinds of vibrations through the car over hours and hours and very well could cause real damage not to mention bad for your shocks. I used the tire tie downs and two ratcheting straps through the bottom front axle as my car was on back wards.


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