LEADASS

I'm starting a sunroof delete in the next week(s) or so and of course the wind shield is one of my first obstacles. I've searched the threads and it looks pretty dicey, who's done this recently and how can I save the glass? I'll have a buddy who's a glass guy do the removal but I'm looking for all insight and info that'll save me a bit of serious cash. Thanks, Brian

danglerb

What I've heard is that no matter who does it, chance of damage is close to 50%, but maybe that can be improved with some slow and careful vs pro paid by the hour.

HF sells some cheap windshield removal tools, a wire with handles and a handle with a small blade sideways at the end and a wire attached handle to pull it with (knife handle is just to keep the blade correctly oriented). The also have various suction cups to pick up the glass with.

My parts car has "ok" glass, so I am going to give it a try with HF stuff before the chassis goes to scrap.

yardpro

pros will have a hot knife they can use that minimizes the breakage

EspritS4s

I've done it. It's tough to protect the paint of the windshield frame and the windshield itself, especially if you are using the piano wire approach. The blades on the pro-tools are designed to protect the frame paint, but I'm guessing that you still have to be careful. If you don't care about the paint, then it should be much easier to protect the windshield.

Jim M.

I've done it unsuccessfully using the harbor freight tools. Managed to cut the sealant along the top, but could not get around the corners. It ended up coming out in 10,000 pieces. Also lots of paint damage to the frame area from the tools. Hire a pro and improve your odds to 50/50.

nlneilson

In the Porsche Service Manual
Removing and installing windshield 64-3

7. Press the steel wire from Repair Kit 47: 898
Ull through windshield weatherstrip at an
upper and secure it inside of special Tool VW 1351 (similar to a screwdriver). Now
pull the wire toward the inside and hold it on
the weatherstrip with the special 1001. Use the
grip to pull the wire in up to this point. Re-
peat this procedure around entire windshield.

50% as mentioned would be a good guess.
Take your time and make sure the adhesive is cut all the way around.
Be careful of the pressure with hands when trying to initially press the glass from the frame.

I tried to remove a windshield from a Pickup but should have taken more time as it cracked.

________________________________________
'79 5spd

tailpipe

The hardest part is getting good piano wire that doesn't break done it a few times always successfull...if the widow is broken its even harder with nothing solid to push on take your time it takes awhile but its not hard

danglerb

I wonder what a local glass guy would charge to pull from one car and install in another? (with/without removing the old cracked one as well).

One reason I was planning on trying it myself is that I would like to take some time to clean all the old sealant off before the new glass goes in, maybe a few other "chores" easier with glass out like messing with the pod.

FLYVMO

I broke 100% of the windshields I tried (2), by using the HF tools (wire and suction cups) on one, and a flat blade oscillating cutoff tool (worked the best) for the second. Both windshields had the newer style sealant/adhesive which seems much harder and tougher than the early variant. The oscillating tool cut all of the sealant except on the lower part of the windshield where the tool could not reach because of interfering with the lower frame (dash was out).

I called 4 different places (3 did not want to come and remove the windshield unless I bought a new one), the 4th quoted me $150 to remove with no guarantee of not breaking it.

Hope you have better luck, just remember to NOT push on the windshield from the inside with any significant force, as it WILL crack the glass.

Cheers!
Carl
90GT project

stuartbrs

The chances of it breaking are very high. My bodyworks mate tried to remove the one from the S4 and it almost immediatly broke. I have another mate that removes windscreens for a living and he broke the glass in my 924 as well ( its glued in like the 928 ones ).

Mark Anderson

We get about 75% out without damage just using windshield wire.

Tom in Austin

How about damage to the A-pillar covers and forward edge of the dashboard?

jwillman

Not sure it is applicable here but I pulled my rear hatch glass by using a small 90 degree bend tool pick going under the glass and cutting the sealant. Tools slides along the glass and no worry about the long wire tail chewing up trim. Again I have not tried this on a windshiled. Might have helped that we had real hot weather in Texas to soften the sealant!!

LEADASS

Guys, This is great! Any ideas as to when the adhesives were changed? I understand that earlier cars had a Butyl Goo and that later years had a Polyurethane adhesive. Also that the Poly stuff is more of a PITA to work with. The biggest problem is the weather, here in Maine we are in the midst of a slight seasonal cool down( yesterday -8 at my house). I guess I'll have to heat the garage overnight, or maybe if I run the car with the defroster on high for four hours It'll be gooey enough.
I'll definitely pull the A-pillar trims and even the headliner, I'm hoping that I won't damage the paint but the windshield is more of a priority (i"ll be painting the roof anyway). I'll keep you updated as to my luck, thanks again Brian

amschnellsten

I have pulled maybe 50 windshields and have only broken one. I use piano wire and wood dowels. The key is taking your time and making sure it is completely unsealed.