jwillman

I have had a quirky ignition switch since buying the car almost 2 years ago. Only issue to date has been that I had to manually return the igniton switch to run in order to get my headlights to work. It has been on my to do list but just have not got there yet.

Last week while replacing my carpet I found 2 wires disconnected at the central warning unit. I reconnected the rear lamp wire and last week I would get a stop lamp warning light when I turned on the parking or head lights even thought all lights worked as required. All other warning lights worked normally.

Today I took the car to the Austin get togather and it started flawlessly 6 times. I did notice that my parking brake light was now not working nor do I get the stop lamp when turning on the parking lights.

Later I took the car for the annual Texas safety inspection and while there the car would not restart. I tried several times and then on one attempt it jumped to life as if there was no issue so it does not seem to be a battery power issue.

I have a replacement ignition switch. Can a quirky ignition switch also cause the issues with the warning lights?

WallyP

Yep - but that may not be your only problem.

The stop light warning light should come on as soon as you turn the ignition switch on, and go off when you press the brake pedal. There should be no connection with the parking lights or headlights.

Parking brake light should come on anytime that the ignition switch is on and you lift the parking brake handle.

When changing the ignition switch, be very careful to avoid releasing the wires unexpectedly. You have to get each of the wires to the correct connector.

The link between the lock and the switch gets worn, so check it as well.

rexpontius

Make sure you disconnect the battery while replacing the ignition switch.
And make sure you have a proper original switch, not the cheap imitation ones, they are really crap quality, trust me I know......

Herman K

As Wally said the link gets worn or has a crack which will reduce the amount of travel/motion that the key turns the switch.

AnatolyL

I have the complete set of ignition parts (tumber, electrical portion, and cam lock) purchased through the dealer (around $300). It was not obvious to me how to R/R the assembly when I glanced at it the last time the pod was off, and I can't find anything for work instructions in the paper WSM that I have. Any suggestions or places to look?

Herman K

Going to the dealer for this was your firts mistake! Their are better sources for 928 parts educate yourself via search.

After you remove the POD you'll have to remove the roll pin (item #10 in the drawing) It's tricky (but it can be done) because it is a push fit into the housing that holds the lock barrel.

If I remember well I replaced it with a small screw or pin and put a dab of JB weld on it to make sure it stayed in there.

Good luck

AnatolyL

Thank you for the tip - I do buy parts from other sources - primarily Roger - but I wanted the ignition switch cut to VIN and I assumed that would better be done through the dealer network. My local dealer (Champion Porsche) has always been fair with me, and sometimes you might really need them.

jwillman

I replaced my sloppy ignition switch with a used one I had on hand. The new used one had much better detents but I did not feel any spring return in just the electric part.

Seems to have resolved some of the warning light issues. Those switches affect allot of different systems!!