Towing eye thread cleaning tap useful ?
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Once Dave has finished with it, it will be on its way over there....take a number please, with Electronic Alan. Wiith luck, a week - 10 days.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
#17
#18
Rennlist Member
Well, I have found someone who can supply this unusual tap.
Porsche tax included, of course.
M 20 X 8 PITCH R.H. KNUCKLE THREAD TAP PLUG CHAMFER BRIGHT FINISH
1 PIECE = 175.00
2 PIECES = 135.00 EACH
LEAD TIME IS 5-7 WORKING DAYS
Now that's a hefty price for a single use tool! I suppose if someone were interested in jumping in on the opportunity, I might go for the 'lower priced, high volume option'.
Ideally, these rarely used tools would be made available for a fee to interested parties (RL members, 928 OC members, customers of parts suppliers). I think this model already exists with the water pump repair tooling and even a shark tuner.
Comments?
Porsche tax included, of course.
M 20 X 8 PITCH R.H. KNUCKLE THREAD TAP PLUG CHAMFER BRIGHT FINISH
1 PIECE = 175.00
2 PIECES = 135.00 EACH
LEAD TIME IS 5-7 WORKING DAYS
Now that's a hefty price for a single use tool! I suppose if someone were interested in jumping in on the opportunity, I might go for the 'lower priced, high volume option'.
Ideally, these rarely used tools would be made available for a fee to interested parties (RL members, 928 OC members, customers of parts suppliers). I think this model already exists with the water pump repair tooling and even a shark tuner.
Comments?
#19
As stated my aluminium plug was corroded into the forward towing eye which required drilling out. I only found this out when I need to be loaded onto a flat bed when I have a fuel pump failure around a thousand kilometres from home.
I later drilled it out and was lucky enough to have a thread chaser to clean up the thread profile. Not tap available at the time and now I find out JP has a tap.
I turned up a brass plug and fitted it using "Anti-scuffing past" on the threads. No problems removing the brass plug. Nothing fitted to after towing point.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
I later drilled it out and was lucky enough to have a thread chaser to clean up the thread profile. Not tap available at the time and now I find out JP has a tap.
I turned up a brass plug and fitted it using "Anti-scuffing past" on the threads. No problems removing the brass plug. Nothing fitted to after towing point.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
#20
Rennlist Member
First ... thanks to John for loaning the tap and shipping it to me so quickly. JP .. it's in the post (express) back to you ...
My front point was jamming as a result of dirt accumulation over the years, as it was missing the plug. The tap worked like a charm in cleaning the threads out of accumulated dirt and scale, and I finished off by flushing the threads clean with water, and then spraying with a corrosion inhibitor when dry.
I've taken a pic of the tap, which has a nice extended shaft to get to the tow point threads without hitting paint, and a pic of a plug I found that fits perfectly. For Oz listers, it's a Mardon marine drain plug (made in Sydney). I got it from a hardware outlet, and I'm sure they are a standard item in a marine supplier here, and probably in other countries.
As you can see the plug is a simple square thread, but the pitch is right and it fits perfectly. I put some anti-seize on the thread to stop it galling on the metal and lightly tightened it up with a pair of pliers. Even if it did seize it will allow a fair bit of pressure to be used on the end flat, and would be easy to drill out.
My front point was jamming as a result of dirt accumulation over the years, as it was missing the plug. The tap worked like a charm in cleaning the threads out of accumulated dirt and scale, and I finished off by flushing the threads clean with water, and then spraying with a corrosion inhibitor when dry.
I've taken a pic of the tap, which has a nice extended shaft to get to the tow point threads without hitting paint, and a pic of a plug I found that fits perfectly. For Oz listers, it's a Mardon marine drain plug (made in Sydney). I got it from a hardware outlet, and I'm sure they are a standard item in a marine supplier here, and probably in other countries.
As you can see the plug is a simple square thread, but the pitch is right and it fits perfectly. I put some anti-seize on the thread to stop it galling on the metal and lightly tightened it up with a pair of pliers. Even if it did seize it will allow a fair bit of pressure to be used on the end flat, and would be easy to drill out.
#21
Nordschleife Master
Knuckle thread seems very practical, I wonder why its so hard to find, maybe some other name is common? Or maybe its one of those things that just doesn't intersect with the net?
Maybe the guys who do those tow hook license plate things have some insight?
Maybe the guys who do those tow hook license plate things have some insight?
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tool is en route to Alan now. Might be fun to keep track of how many places it visits while its there....
So far :-
Melbourne, Vic, Oz
Kingston, Tas, Oz
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
So far :-
Melbourne, Vic, Oz
Kingston, Tas, Oz
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
#23
Rennlist Member
Hi John
Just thought I'd list the procedure I followed, to make sure I looked after the tap, and didn't damage the threads on the car. I know this will be unnecessary information for most, but maybe some who might be using the tap haven't used one before.
1. flush out thread with water and a small bottle brush to get rid of dirt and any rust scale.
2. brush again and blow out with compressed air.
3. lubricate tap and thread with cutting oil or similar.
4. Important .... back the tap out as many times as is necessary during tapping, when resistance is felt, to clear the thread of debris. Keep well lubricated and clean. Do not force!
5. when full depth is reached clean out the thread again.
6. run the tap in and out of the thread again as a final check, then the tow hook, and clean.
7. do a final clean and put a smear of anti-seize on the thread.
8. fit a plug to keep debris out.
Just thought I'd list the procedure I followed, to make sure I looked after the tap, and didn't damage the threads on the car. I know this will be unnecessary information for most, but maybe some who might be using the tap haven't used one before.
1. flush out thread with water and a small bottle brush to get rid of dirt and any rust scale.
2. brush again and blow out with compressed air.
3. lubricate tap and thread with cutting oil or similar.
4. Important .... back the tap out as many times as is necessary during tapping, when resistance is felt, to clear the thread of debris. Keep well lubricated and clean. Do not force!
5. when full depth is reached clean out the thread again.
6. run the tap in and out of the thread again as a final check, then the tow hook, and clean.
7. do a final clean and put a smear of anti-seize on the thread.
8. fit a plug to keep debris out.
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I am not too worried about cleaning up accessible threads, but the cases where the alloy plug needs to be drilled out. The two cases I have done were like this, and it takes some care to avoid damaging the nose - long drills in the relevant size wont be cheap or common. Once most of plug is out, and the tap can be started, it will take some patience working it back and forth, remove, clean, lubricate, go again.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
#25
Supercharged
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I drilled, cut, and picked mine last summer to the point where I can get a tow hook in about 2 1/2 turns. I know I marred the threads a little with the pick and saw I used, plus there are probably some little bits of plug left in the threads. I could really use this and I'm sure some other Michigan folks would appreciate getting a crack at it.
I drilled, cut, and picked mine last summer to the point where I can get a tow hook in about 2 1/2 turns. I know I marred the threads a little with the pick and saw I used, plus there are probably some little bits of plug left in the threads. I could really use this and I'm sure some other Michigan folks would appreciate getting a crack at it.
#26
Electron Wrangler
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Lifetime Rennlist
Member
this is the Virtual International Owners Club doing just that. Not sure how jp wants this set up in detail - but basically for a nominal fee and shipping - you get to use the right (expensive) tool for this (presumably) one in a car lifetime job.
When jp proposed this - I said I'd help with the local distribution in the US.
We already have little sideline together for Replacement Gas Cap Pawl Blanks that jp made. I'm still distributing those if anyone needs one. You have to do a little work yourself - but a great start - one that will never crack.
Guys like jp who make critical replacement parts and/or lend out expensive one time stuff to the rest of the community are what make this such a great place... Bravo!
Alan