z driver 88t

Back when mine was leaking Mark at 928INTL said he had rebuilt units for $400.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...radiators.html

You may want to give them a call. Mine was weeping from the same spot for a few months and started to drip onto the belly pan, so I finally replaced it. Ended up going with a 928 Motorsports aluminum unit which was $700 (no coolers on my car). I've been happy with it, but I had to do some minor tweaking if you go that route.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tion-tips.html

bd0nalds0n

I've used Harris Radiator in Encinitas for a few things and always felt like they were stand up folks. It's a family business on the 101 and they've been around forever.

SanDiego928

Thanks everyone. I will be bouncing all this around in my brain and see what comes out. Replace side tank myself or find a shop to do it (start calling around, Encinitas is an option) or buy a used or new radiator.

I have a 84 Euro parts car available to me so I do have the option of using that radiator. I forgot about the parts car, not mine but I can have it I just found out. It has been sitting for years though. Free is good.

This maybe the first major expense for me since purchasing the 928, except for new tires.

Thanks again.

Randy V

Just an FYI - if I was to do it again, I would definitely buy the 928 Intn't rebuilt radiator for $400 instead of doing the end tank swap myself.

neilh

I agree with Randy, I bought a perfect rad from Mark Benton for much less than $400.

SanDiego928

Called 928intl. and was told used radiators are not rebuilt, just used.

Got a tip from a friend at work and found a shop in Spring Valley, CA. 'Arts Radiator Shop' who specializes in repairing rads with plastic end tanks.

Talked to the owner and stopped by on the way home from work. Owner was gone but the guys showed me around and the tools they use. Plastic end tanks everywhere. Very nice. In business since late 70's.

Removal Question:

Looks like remove 2 bolts to the fan shroud in the middle and there are 2 plastic caps at the end of the radiator. Are the caps hiding the bolts? They look brittle.

Anything else to remove the radiator other than - unhook the fan switch and overflow, drain the radiator through bottom valve and remove hoses?

How much coolant can I expect to catch in the bucket?

I have no cooler connections.

Do these radiators fit a litte loose? Meaning you can move it front to back about a 1/4 inch or so. Maybe need new rubber bushings?

Thanks in advance.

z driver 88t

As I recall my stock radiator fit a little loose. Not quite 1/4 inch of play, but maybe 1/8. OB has a 2-piece fan shroud.

If your car has a belly pan, you'll need to remove that. Two small bolts or screws at the top and two at the bottom of the radiator. Fan shroud will slide right out. Un bolt the two hex bolts at the top on the left and right side. They are really the only thing holding the radiator in.

Once you get the upper and lower hoses off and the temp sensoor unplugged the whole thing slides right out. It's actually a really easy removal.

Note my IMPORTANT tip: Do not forget to reattach the lower hose to the fan shroud near the power steering pulley with a couple zip ties. I forgot and the hose ended up rubbing against the front nut on the PS pulley and wore a hole in it.

I used a 5 gallon bucket to collect the coolant. It was less than that but don't recall exaclty. I think when I refilled the system it took about 2 1/2 gallons, IIRC. I just did this job a month ago.

dr bob

Hint--

Do all the coolant system flushing and cleaning --before-- you install the refurb'd radiator. Might mean doing it before you remove the old radiator just to manage the size of the lake. Block galley drains come out, and then a serious flush with the garden hose to get all the rocks and debris out of the block. The quantity and quality of the rocks are a great clue into how well the cooling system has been maintained, BTW.

Go buy a few gallons of distilled water, a gallon of your preferred coolant, and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter for the refill. Plenty of discussion on coolants. I like the Zerex G-05 stuff, available from CarQuest stores here. The POLAPS places don't carry anything north of Prestone or Peak, neither of which would be as good a choice.

Since you found a place that's a little more of a craft/botique shop, ask them if they can poke/ rod/ mechanically clean the radiator you have. Seems that minerals and crud accumulate inthe lower tubes and block flow. The thin tubes supposedly have turbulator ridges formed inside, making them tougher to clean. I'm not real sure how those would be formed inside without some evidence on the outside, so some of that may be myth from radiator shops anxious to sell a new core. Anyway, might be an interesting lesson if they are willing to let you watch or participate in the cleaning process.


Oh-- Roger sells the new labels/stickers for your radiator.

SanDiego928

Thanks for the hints and advice. I need all of it and am very appreciative.

Will pick up the Water Wetter and Zerex.

blown 87

And what risk would that be?

There is stop leak put in every new aluminum engine that GM makes.

While I am not a fan of it, the GM engine coolant tabs will not hurt a thing, just like the bars tabs, they are safe.

Randy V

So no rebuilts?

Perhaps Mark can chime in to set this straight.

Mark Anderson

Most of our used radiators do get rebuilt but at the time the only used ones we had were just tested and not rebuIlt.
We still warranty all of them for 1 year.

Randy V

Thanks, sir.

SanDiego928

Thank you also.

So many options from fixing the tank myself, to using a shop nearby, offered a free used rad. from a friend, rennlisters offering rads for sale all the way to purchasing a new radiator.

I am a little overwhelmed with all the outpouring of help and parts from around the country. If I were wealthy I would and buy everyone a

ammonman

Replacing the tanks yourself is bone simple if you follow the write-up on here that uses the "spread the flange" method instead of the "bend the tabs" technique. With a few simple bits and bobs you can fill the tank with water and pressurize with air for testing prior to installation and re-fill. I used the loaner cooling system pressure test kit from the local parts house and an expanding plug from the plumbing aisle at the hardware store. Wheels up to wheels down in less than half a day.

Go for it!! you know you want to!!!

Mike