Euro electrical adjustable headlamps.
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Euro electrical adjustable headlamps.
I need parts for doing a conversion to Euro style adjustable headlamps, the late model electrical type.
If you have some of these parts, or know any one that does have any for sale, please contact me.
Thanks guys.
Greg
If you have some of these parts, or know any one that does have any for sale, please contact me.
Thanks guys.
Greg
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Dave Roberts could get them new a few years ago (reasonable pricing too - @approx $100 per motor then). Be aware the CE panel to headlight wiring will not be in place on any car that wasn't originally equipped with them... USA cars made in the same years that these were equipped on ROW cars - will have the wiring from the CE panel to the handbrake cover.
Alan
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Dave Roberts could get them new a few years ago (reasonable pricing too - @approx $100 per motor then). Be aware the CE panel to headlight wiring will not be in place on any car that wasn't originally equipped with them... USA cars made in the same years that these were equipped on ROW cars - will have the wiring from the CE panel to the handbrake cover.
Alan
Alan
Since mine is a 87 there is no way to make it "Stock" since that electrical type was never a factory option on that year model if what I think I know is correct.
I have asked our suppliers to try and get me parts, it does not look promising at this point though.
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The ****/potentiometer assembly is listed as "PNU" (Part Number Unknown) which sounds much worse than "NLA" or "SOL". Checking with breakers in Europe sounds like a good plan.
And making up a harness is a given, I think. The question is connectors. Alan, any ideas on mating connectors for the motors?
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Greg, I've got a set of motors (not for sale ) but haven't done anything with them, yet. We got them from DR, at his charity auction at SITM. According to PET the part# (928.624.163.00) is still valid, did you ask Roger to check stock? The parts which attach the motor to the headlight assembly (adapter, sealing ring, etc) are the same as USA models, 87+, according to PET.
The ****/potentiometer assembly is listed as "PNU" (Part Number Unknown) which sounds much worse than "NLA" or "SOL". Checking with breakers in Europe sounds like a good plan.
And making up a harness is a given, I think. The question is connectors. Alan, any ideas on mating connectors for the motors?
The ****/potentiometer assembly is listed as "PNU" (Part Number Unknown) which sounds much worse than "NLA" or "SOL". Checking with breakers in Europe sounds like a good plan.
And making up a harness is a given, I think. The question is connectors. Alan, any ideas on mating connectors for the motors?
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I have tracked down most of the parts for the conversion. Motors and brackets for holding them along with the potentiometer are all available. Seems to have been fitted from 1990 onwards. This is the later electrical system not the earlier type.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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I did not need to change the yokes - I don't think you need to for any year. There are no other brackets used that I recall.
You do need Stock ROW Bosch H4 headlamps and the carrier baskets that come with them for this. H5 baskets dont pivot so won't work.
Dont recall sealing rings - but if needed they must have come already on my used units.
The fitting into the yokes is simple, push in and turn (a kind of bayonet fitting) - the only problem is that you have to take the yokes off the car first... click them in - then reassemble back onto the car. This make a 1 second job into a 45 minute job - that requires 2 people (unless you have very long arms). I remember it well...
Alan
You do need Stock ROW Bosch H4 headlamps and the carrier baskets that come with them for this. H5 baskets dont pivot so won't work.
Dont recall sealing rings - but if needed they must have come already on my used units.
The fitting into the yokes is simple, push in and turn (a kind of bayonet fitting) - the only problem is that you have to take the yokes off the car first... click them in - then reassemble back onto the car. This make a 1 second job into a 45 minute job - that requires 2 people (unless you have very long arms). I remember it well...
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 12-27-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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Looks like Roger has came through for me on the parts, and I suspect that others will want to do this also.
I will check into making harness for others that may be interested in doing this conversion.
I will check into making harness for others that may be interested in doing this conversion.
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Cheers, Jim
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Here is the connector for the potentiometer, under the parking-brake hump as predicted on our '90GT. The part# is 944 613 531 01, PET says that is a good number and the contacts are 944 612 548 00 (three req'd). Roger, can you get these? Greg will need one for his car.
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You may still want to see if you can get the connectors w/ pigtails from a Euro breakers yard (UK/France/Germany are prob. best bets). Mostly they don't sell these because folks are replacing only the units into cars that already have the wiring.
You need the potentiometer one, and two the same for the motor units.
Wiring to the front - find some slim 3 core conductor - I routed this through the firewall grommet in the drivers footwell up above the pedals - access from the bulkhead/cowl area - grommet under/beside the wiper motor... tight but workable - then you can tie the wires to the looms that already run under the fender lip to the front... The motors and potemtiometer are all connected together with the same 3 wires one of which is ground and another power (on only with marker lamps in stock config). Power draw is very small so small wiring (even ~18AWG) is OK.
Alan
You need the potentiometer one, and two the same for the motor units.
Wiring to the front - find some slim 3 core conductor - I routed this through the firewall grommet in the drivers footwell up above the pedals - access from the bulkhead/cowl area - grommet under/beside the wiper motor... tight but workable - then you can tie the wires to the looms that already run under the fender lip to the front... The motors and potemtiometer are all connected together with the same 3 wires one of which is ground and another power (on only with marker lamps in stock config). Power draw is very small so small wiring (even ~18AWG) is OK.
Alan