Dry sumping 928
12-28-2011, 08:17 PM
#16
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Jim if you got it right first time, you'd probably worry that you missed something.
I don't make many hoses,at least not pressure ones. I have a very helpfull hydraulic shop nereby. They are not cheap but good, if I can tone them down. They tend to go for hoses that archioligists will dig up thousands of years from now, still good.
I have a Tig welder but I don't have the steadiness of hand that I once had, fortunately my Nephew has and he loves cars, or what he calls cars.
I like the idea of a fibreglas tank, made over a foam plug.
Mike
I don't make many hoses,at least not pressure ones. I have a very helpfull hydraulic shop nereby. They are not cheap but good, if I can tone them down. They tend to go for hoses that archioligists will dig up thousands of years from now, still good.
I have a Tig welder but I don't have the steadiness of hand that I once had, fortunately my Nephew has and he loves cars, or what he calls cars.
I like the idea of a fibreglas tank, made over a foam plug.
Mike
I have 3 oil coolers on the car, one of which is in the high pressure side of the system, along with a large racing filter, and the other two mount up in the car behind the front fender vents. And yes, it does need the extra cooling but maybe I went to far, so there is now a thermostat in the secondary cooling (low pressure) loop that bypasses the two front coolers.
I used stainless steel braided hoses (I do not recommend that in hindsight) and a basket full of AN-10 fittings, as well as an inline filter between the sump drain and the low pressure side of the pump.I built the tank out of fiberglass over a lost foam buck as my other option was to buy a TIG and teach myself how to use it.....and that sounded like a lost cause as I am the world worst welder on less demanding materials than aluminum.
So, all told I have a couple of weeks invested, and about $2500 in parts and stuff...:
I used stainless steel braided hoses (I do not recommend that in hindsight) and a basket full of AN-10 fittings, as well as an inline filter between the sump drain and the low pressure side of the pump.I built the tank out of fiberglass over a lost foam buck as my other option was to buy a TIG and teach myself how to use it.....and that sounded like a lost cause as I am the world worst welder on less demanding materials than aluminum.
So, all told I have a couple of weeks invested, and about $2500 in parts and stuff...:
12-28-2011, 08:39 PM
#17
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There's a lot of front guard area unused. For me it would be the lhs because i don't want to mess with the window washer. I like the idea though of 'growing' the intensive system and making it the window washer. They both use the exact same pump. Porsche must have thought the intensive system was a waste of time also because my GTS didn't have one. Here, headlight washer is only good scaring kids.
There is space, narrow, at the very rear [vacuum tank can go anywere, even in the rear guard with an extension off the trans modulator line for autos] of the guard but rising and curving forward towards the top of the tyre, there's heaps of space. Even fitting the later inner rubber arch cover leave a lot of space. Great path access through the inner guard to the pump, even for a fat steel pipe for much of it. On my car, being RHD, there's just about enough spcae for the delivery line to squeeze between the rack and the cross member where the LHD steering box [pinion] would have been.
Gee I love planning things. Occasionally one works.
There is space, narrow, at the very rear [vacuum tank can go anywere, even in the rear guard with an extension off the trans modulator line for autos] of the guard but rising and curving forward towards the top of the tyre, there's heaps of space. Even fitting the later inner rubber arch cover leave a lot of space. Great path access through the inner guard to the pump, even for a fat steel pipe for much of it. On my car, being RHD, there's just about enough spcae for the delivery line to squeeze between the rack and the cross member where the LHD steering box [pinion] would have been.
Gee I love planning things. Occasionally one works.
OK - I see you have been busy already stuffing the fenders!!...(Nice)
Obviously you can fab things up very nicely. So go for it if its basically for your fun and enjoyment & because you can!...
Do you think you can make the rear area of the front fenders work for a tank? - maybe just use the intensive washer tank for the washers?
I think you already know pretty much what to do - but I'd suggest scavenging the cam covers directly as well as the pan. See Rob Edward's/GB write up...
Alan
Obviously you can fab things up very nicely. So go for it if its basically for your fun and enjoyment & because you can!...
Do you think you can make the rear area of the front fenders work for a tank? - maybe just use the intensive washer tank for the washers?
I think you already know pretty much what to do - but I'd suggest scavenging the cam covers directly as well as the pan. See Rob Edward's/GB write up...
Alan
12-28-2011, 09:15 PM
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Colin I like the idea of the pump with integrated oil separator, much more compact than tanks allowing for smaller tank de-frothing I assume.
Do you have numbers for GPH or LPM?
I'm very interested in your crankcase vacuum pump system. As you say, it makes very good sense for a street car. Mine runs at 13PSI boost, so there is a likely hood of extra blow by. [it's got a heap now with a hole in No1 piston].
My 86.5 32v is in the shed at the moment and my mate and I are preparing it for it for a gentle 5psi boost. It's at the stage of doing the vacuum pipes and breather pipes, having just replaced the injectors, O2 sensor and engie sensors, manifold gaskets and done the various fuel system tests. My current plan was to use PCV via vacuum controlled blow off valve, that allows limited evacuation on engine vacuum but closes on boost. This model has a 6 way rubber vacuum fitting for the various regulators, dampers LH unit etc etc but it now has 3 more with blow off, emmisions and rising rate regulator, so 'U' shaped vacuum manifold is on the drawing board, to run around the 2 plenems to reduce he maze of 3mm vacuum hoses.
Then it's cankase breathing time. The cam covers have been removed and replaced and breather elbows fitted 2 in each side. 2 are simply connected, like the GTS, 1 is for PCV via a vacuum control valve, the last is fitted with a oneway valve to prevent vacuum drawing back through the crankase into the manifold, then exits into the aircleaner line.
Now you have mucked up all my thinking with the vacuum pump idea. Please tease me a bit more with some details, like pump brand and model etc etc.
Mike
Do you have numbers for GPH or LPM?
I'm very interested in your crankcase vacuum pump system. As you say, it makes very good sense for a street car. Mine runs at 13PSI boost, so there is a likely hood of extra blow by. [it's got a heap now with a hole in No1 piston].
My 86.5 32v is in the shed at the moment and my mate and I are preparing it for it for a gentle 5psi boost. It's at the stage of doing the vacuum pipes and breather pipes, having just replaced the injectors, O2 sensor and engie sensors, manifold gaskets and done the various fuel system tests. My current plan was to use PCV via vacuum controlled blow off valve, that allows limited evacuation on engine vacuum but closes on boost. This model has a 6 way rubber vacuum fitting for the various regulators, dampers LH unit etc etc but it now has 3 more with blow off, emmisions and rising rate regulator, so 'U' shaped vacuum manifold is on the drawing board, to run around the 2 plenems to reduce he maze of 3mm vacuum hoses.
Then it's cankase breathing time. The cam covers have been removed and replaced and breather elbows fitted 2 in each side. 2 are simply connected, like the GTS, 1 is for PCV via a vacuum control valve, the last is fitted with a oneway valve to prevent vacuum drawing back through the crankase into the manifold, then exits into the aircleaner line.
Now you have mucked up all my thinking with the vacuum pump idea. Please tease me a bit more with some details, like pump brand and model etc etc.
Mike
You need to make sure that the oil flow is <10 ft per sec for the oil line going to the oil pressure pump. This means either a -16 (1" id) or -20 (1 1/4" ID) hose going to it. If you do not have this, well, you can ask Cheburator what happens.
a general rule of thumb is to take the original oil volume and add 50%. So if the original volume was 8 litres, you need a minimum of 12L now. And your resevior needs to be a max of around 60% full for de-aeration. So really you need a 5 gallon reservoir for the system, also consider a secondary tank of much smaller size for the breather to go through.
Not all pumps are made equally, I will only use Dailey Engineering pumps with the air oil separator on the back. This will help to control the aeration and ensure that you never go dry. Budget around $1500-2000 for a good pump.
Due to the points illustrated above, I dont see it being very practical for a street car. What I did for my street car was to install a vacuum pump designed specifically for crankcase vacuum. I then exit it to a home made air oil separator, which has a catch on the bottom. Off the catch is a small tube which is routed up to the 1-4 cam cover and attached to the forward port. This releases a small portion of the vacuum so as to prevent the vacuum from getting too high and to suck any removed oil back into the engine reducing the possibility of running the oil low. The system works very well, but I need to make one or two changes to it. Those will be happening soon. But the system is still working very well, and is working under boost (turbo). So if your car is a street car, I would recommend entertaining that idea over drysump.
a general rule of thumb is to take the original oil volume and add 50%. So if the original volume was 8 litres, you need a minimum of 12L now. And your resevior needs to be a max of around 60% full for de-aeration. So really you need a 5 gallon reservoir for the system, also consider a secondary tank of much smaller size for the breather to go through.
Not all pumps are made equally, I will only use Dailey Engineering pumps with the air oil separator on the back. This will help to control the aeration and ensure that you never go dry. Budget around $1500-2000 for a good pump.
Due to the points illustrated above, I dont see it being very practical for a street car. What I did for my street car was to install a vacuum pump designed specifically for crankcase vacuum. I then exit it to a home made air oil separator, which has a catch on the bottom. Off the catch is a small tube which is routed up to the 1-4 cam cover and attached to the forward port. This releases a small portion of the vacuum so as to prevent the vacuum from getting too high and to suck any removed oil back into the engine reducing the possibility of running the oil low. The system works very well, but I need to make one or two changes to it. Those will be happening soon. But the system is still working very well, and is working under boost (turbo). So if your car is a street car, I would recommend entertaining that idea over drysump.
12-28-2011, 10:40 PM
#19
Former Sponsor
Every engine that I've dry sumped, I've used the stock pump for pressure. Way easier to use the stock pump than to try and figure out how to get rid of it and still have something there that the belt can turn on.
Armed with my latest findings about how much oil gets trapped in the heads, most everything we do from here forward will scavage the heads....which makes the scavange pump need more stages...which makes the pump longer. It's almost impossible to get enough stages to remove the oil from the engine, have a pressure section, and have the "Dailey" separator on the back.....the pump gets really long. This fact makes retaining the stock oil pump a really attractive thing to do. The potential downside to this is that it is possible (Bill Dailey has suggested this) that the stock pump might cavitate past a certain rpm....which potentially adds things back into the equation.
The "drysump" question is almost always answered by dollars. Fabricate a pan with pickups and a "pass through" for the suction, have a pump designed and built, fabricate mounts for the pump, build a tank, and plumb the car.
Big dollars.
Even if someone had all the pieces made up in quantities (how many people actually need to dry sump one of these engines?) it is still big dollars.
I think that my cylinder head oil removal system is probably adequate for 99% of the 928 people that are going to run these engines very hard. That system returns the oil to the pan (where it needs to be) addresses crankcase ventilation and cylinder head ventilation, solves the problem of oil not returning from the heads, plus it eliminates the problem of oil getting back into the intake system.
Fixes four separate oiling/breather problems in one step. The only advantage of dry sumping, from there, is to remove more of the oil from the crankcase to further reduce windage and to possibly allow better oil/air separation....both of which may/may not be an issue.
Armed with my latest findings about how much oil gets trapped in the heads, most everything we do from here forward will scavage the heads....which makes the scavange pump need more stages...which makes the pump longer. It's almost impossible to get enough stages to remove the oil from the engine, have a pressure section, and have the "Dailey" separator on the back.....the pump gets really long. This fact makes retaining the stock oil pump a really attractive thing to do. The potential downside to this is that it is possible (Bill Dailey has suggested this) that the stock pump might cavitate past a certain rpm....which potentially adds things back into the equation.
The "drysump" question is almost always answered by dollars. Fabricate a pan with pickups and a "pass through" for the suction, have a pump designed and built, fabricate mounts for the pump, build a tank, and plumb the car.
Big dollars.
Even if someone had all the pieces made up in quantities (how many people actually need to dry sump one of these engines?) it is still big dollars.
I think that my cylinder head oil removal system is probably adequate for 99% of the 928 people that are going to run these engines very hard. That system returns the oil to the pan (where it needs to be) addresses crankcase ventilation and cylinder head ventilation, solves the problem of oil not returning from the heads, plus it eliminates the problem of oil getting back into the intake system.
Fixes four separate oiling/breather problems in one step. The only advantage of dry sumping, from there, is to remove more of the oil from the crankcase to further reduce windage and to possibly allow better oil/air separation....both of which may/may not be an issue.
12-28-2011, 10:53 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Mike,
I am using a GZ Motorsports vacuum pump Model: VP102
http://www.gzmotorsports.com/vacuum-pumps.html
I also got a 4.5" V belt pulley from them.
This is easily attached where the air pump used to be. I am running a Porkensioner in my car, and do not have the ability to do mock up on a car with a factory tensioner. However with the porkensioner, it is a very very easy install.
You will need to modify your oil filler neck to feed the pump. This is easily done as the pump needs a -12 line (3/4" ID) to feed it (I used 1"). Now please keep in mind this is all on the 32V motor. On the 16V you already have a connection there! But to connect it to the filler neck I drilled and tapped the bottom front corner on the 1-4 side and ran a hose out just below the coolant bridge. One could replace the fill cap with a hose attachment and connect it this way. I would not recommend a hole and connection below the fill cap as the oil will then have to go through the pump to get back into the crankcase and MAY end up overfilling the engine.
This connection goes straight to the suction side of the pump.
The discharge of the pump needs to go to an air oil separator. A MANN provent would work really well here. I however TIG welded up an air oil separator myself. I am considering changing the design to something closer to the provent to aid in efficiency, but I will likely run a second separator after that due to size limitations.
The air oil separator can sit anywhere really, but I would not recommend in the fenderwell just in case you get some oil ejection that you really would not want getting onto your tires!!!
Off the bottom of the air oil separator I have a small stainless tube with iirc a 1/8" ID, I then run this slim tube up to the 1-4 valve cover and bush it up and put a clear hose over it. I then connected this to the forward port on the valve cover. This creates a steady airflow down the 1-4 head into the sump and should help to minimize the oil cloud in the crankcase. There is enough vacuum to help aid in the sealing of the rings to help reduce blowbly, but DO NOT EXCEED 12 in HG vacuum in the crankcase or you may do damage (pump will do 20 in HG in a perfectly sealed environment). Since installing this system my oil ejection has dropped to virtually nothing. I chose to return the oil to the 1-4 bank due to the crank rotation. If you monitor your crankcase vacuum and if it is too high, then simply add another return tube to the 5-8 cover and call it a day.
The vacuum pump uses the stock air pump pulley on the crank.
In my opinion this is the ultimate system for a street car that will see the odd DE day on street tires.
However I do want to step in here and make another comment. If you want to keep your engine intact, get the most out of it, and have a reliable motor with no issues. Take off the CIS, and distributor. Convert the car to a standalone EFI system like Adaptronic, VEMS, Megasquirt, MoTeC, AEM, DTA Fast, or the multitude of other systems out there.
I have used VEMS and Megasquirt, for a boosted car I would recommend VEMS over Megasquirt due to VEMS having dual knock control right out of the box. With these systems you should run Coil On Plug (COP), or Coil Near Plug (CNP), both are distributorless ignition systems which are fully programmable ignition curves. You can run them MAF, MAP, or speed density based should you choose.
If you choose to not continue down that road, then I hope that you have your distributor resprung/weighted to achieve less maximum advance based on boost and confirm that the engine is not pinging via other means or you will blow up another motor. There are 2 photos attached of what I have done on a 16V motor for CNP (EDIS-8) and the intake changes I made for it.
If you do choose to install the 86.5 32V heads onto your motor, I have NEW camshafts for sale with BIG lift and duration to help you get the absolute MAXIMUM power out of your car.
(picture attached)
I am using a GZ Motorsports vacuum pump Model: VP102
http://www.gzmotorsports.com/vacuum-pumps.html
I also got a 4.5" V belt pulley from them.
This is easily attached where the air pump used to be. I am running a Porkensioner in my car, and do not have the ability to do mock up on a car with a factory tensioner. However with the porkensioner, it is a very very easy install.
You will need to modify your oil filler neck to feed the pump. This is easily done as the pump needs a -12 line (3/4" ID) to feed it (I used 1"). Now please keep in mind this is all on the 32V motor. On the 16V you already have a connection there! But to connect it to the filler neck I drilled and tapped the bottom front corner on the 1-4 side and ran a hose out just below the coolant bridge. One could replace the fill cap with a hose attachment and connect it this way. I would not recommend a hole and connection below the fill cap as the oil will then have to go through the pump to get back into the crankcase and MAY end up overfilling the engine.
This connection goes straight to the suction side of the pump.
The discharge of the pump needs to go to an air oil separator. A MANN provent would work really well here. I however TIG welded up an air oil separator myself. I am considering changing the design to something closer to the provent to aid in efficiency, but I will likely run a second separator after that due to size limitations.
The air oil separator can sit anywhere really, but I would not recommend in the fenderwell just in case you get some oil ejection that you really would not want getting onto your tires!!!
Off the bottom of the air oil separator I have a small stainless tube with iirc a 1/8" ID, I then run this slim tube up to the 1-4 valve cover and bush it up and put a clear hose over it. I then connected this to the forward port on the valve cover. This creates a steady airflow down the 1-4 head into the sump and should help to minimize the oil cloud in the crankcase. There is enough vacuum to help aid in the sealing of the rings to help reduce blowbly, but DO NOT EXCEED 12 in HG vacuum in the crankcase or you may do damage (pump will do 20 in HG in a perfectly sealed environment). Since installing this system my oil ejection has dropped to virtually nothing. I chose to return the oil to the 1-4 bank due to the crank rotation. If you monitor your crankcase vacuum and if it is too high, then simply add another return tube to the 5-8 cover and call it a day.
The vacuum pump uses the stock air pump pulley on the crank.
In my opinion this is the ultimate system for a street car that will see the odd DE day on street tires.
However I do want to step in here and make another comment. If you want to keep your engine intact, get the most out of it, and have a reliable motor with no issues. Take off the CIS, and distributor. Convert the car to a standalone EFI system like Adaptronic, VEMS, Megasquirt, MoTeC, AEM, DTA Fast, or the multitude of other systems out there.
I have used VEMS and Megasquirt, for a boosted car I would recommend VEMS over Megasquirt due to VEMS having dual knock control right out of the box. With these systems you should run Coil On Plug (COP), or Coil Near Plug (CNP), both are distributorless ignition systems which are fully programmable ignition curves. You can run them MAF, MAP, or speed density based should you choose.
If you choose to not continue down that road, then I hope that you have your distributor resprung/weighted to achieve less maximum advance based on boost and confirm that the engine is not pinging via other means or you will blow up another motor. There are 2 photos attached of what I have done on a 16V motor for CNP (EDIS-8) and the intake changes I made for it.
If you do choose to install the 86.5 32V heads onto your motor, I have NEW camshafts for sale with BIG lift and duration to help you get the absolute MAXIMUM power out of your car.
(picture attached)
12-29-2011, 02:18 AM
#21
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Great stuff thanks Colin.
As I believe that detonation killed the piston, I have bought an MSD Boost controlled ignition unit that I had planned fitting. Unlikely now but it's there.
Love the motor pics.
As I believe that detonation killed the piston, I have bought an MSD Boost controlled ignition unit that I had planned fitting. Unlikely now but it's there.
Love the motor pics.
Mike,
I am using a GZ Motorsports vacuum pump Model: VP102
http://www.gzmotorsports.com/vacuum-pumps.html
I also got a 4.5" V belt pulley from them.
This is easily attached where the air pump used to be. I am running a Porkensioner in my car, and do not have the ability to do mock up on a car with a factory tensioner. However with the porkensioner, it is a very very easy install.
You will need to modify your oil filler neck to feed the pump. This is easily done as the pump needs a -12 line (3/4" ID) to feed it (I used 1"). Now please keep in mind this is all on the 32V motor. On the 16V you already have a connection there! But to connect it to the filler neck I drilled and tapped the bottom front corner on the 1-4 side and ran a hose out just below the coolant bridge. One could replace the fill cap with a hose attachment and connect it this way. I would not recommend a hole and connection below the fill cap as the oil will then have to go through the pump to get back into the crankcase and MAY end up overfilling the engine.
This connection goes straight to the suction side of the pump.
The discharge of the pump needs to go to an air oil separator. A MANN provent would work really well here. I however TIG welded up an air oil separator myself. I am considering changing the design to something closer to the provent to aid in efficiency, but I will likely run a second separator after that due to size limitations.
The air oil separator can sit anywhere really, but I would not recommend in the fenderwell just in case you get some oil ejection that you really would not want getting onto your tires!!!
Off the bottom of the air oil separator I have a small stainless tube with iirc a 1/8" ID, I then run this slim tube up to the 1-4 valve cover and bush it up and put a clear hose over it. I then connected this to the forward port on the valve cover. This creates a steady airflow down the 1-4 head into the sump and should help to minimize the oil cloud in the crankcase. There is enough vacuum to help aid in the sealing of the rings to help reduce blowbly, but DO NOT EXCEED 12 in HG vacuum in the crankcase or you may do damage (pump will do 20 in HG in a perfectly sealed environment). Since installing this system my oil ejection has dropped to virtually nothing. I chose to return the oil to the 1-4 bank due to the crank rotation. If you monitor your crankcase vacuum and if it is too high, then simply add another return tube to the 5-8 cover and call it a day.
The vacuum pump uses the stock air pump pulley on the crank.
In my opinion this is the ultimate system for a street car that will see the odd DE day on street tires.
However I do want to step in here and make another comment. If you want to keep your engine intact, get the most out of it, and have a reliable motor with no issues. Take off the CIS, and distributor. Convert the car to a standalone EFI system like Adaptronic, VEMS, Megasquirt, MoTeC, AEM, DTA Fast, or the multitude of other systems out there.
I have used VEMS and Megasquirt, for a boosted car I would recommend VEMS over Megasquirt due to VEMS having dual knock control right out of the box. With these systems you should run Coil On Plug (COP), or Coil Near Plug (CNP), both are distributorless ignition systems which are fully programmable ignition curves. You can run them MAF, MAP, or speed density based should you choose.
If you choose to not continue down that road, then I hope that you have your distributor resprung/weighted to achieve less maximum advance based on boost and confirm that the engine is not pinging via other means or you will blow up another motor. There are 2 photos attached of what I have done on a 16V motor for CNP (EDIS-8) and the intake changes I made for it.
If you do choose to install the 86.5 32V heads onto your motor, I have NEW camshafts for sale with BIG lift and duration to help you get the absolute MAXIMUM power out of your car. (picture attached)
I am using a GZ Motorsports vacuum pump Model: VP102
http://www.gzmotorsports.com/vacuum-pumps.html
I also got a 4.5" V belt pulley from them.
This is easily attached where the air pump used to be. I am running a Porkensioner in my car, and do not have the ability to do mock up on a car with a factory tensioner. However with the porkensioner, it is a very very easy install.
You will need to modify your oil filler neck to feed the pump. This is easily done as the pump needs a -12 line (3/4" ID) to feed it (I used 1"). Now please keep in mind this is all on the 32V motor. On the 16V you already have a connection there! But to connect it to the filler neck I drilled and tapped the bottom front corner on the 1-4 side and ran a hose out just below the coolant bridge. One could replace the fill cap with a hose attachment and connect it this way. I would not recommend a hole and connection below the fill cap as the oil will then have to go through the pump to get back into the crankcase and MAY end up overfilling the engine.
This connection goes straight to the suction side of the pump.
The discharge of the pump needs to go to an air oil separator. A MANN provent would work really well here. I however TIG welded up an air oil separator myself. I am considering changing the design to something closer to the provent to aid in efficiency, but I will likely run a second separator after that due to size limitations.
The air oil separator can sit anywhere really, but I would not recommend in the fenderwell just in case you get some oil ejection that you really would not want getting onto your tires!!!
Off the bottom of the air oil separator I have a small stainless tube with iirc a 1/8" ID, I then run this slim tube up to the 1-4 valve cover and bush it up and put a clear hose over it. I then connected this to the forward port on the valve cover. This creates a steady airflow down the 1-4 head into the sump and should help to minimize the oil cloud in the crankcase. There is enough vacuum to help aid in the sealing of the rings to help reduce blowbly, but DO NOT EXCEED 12 in HG vacuum in the crankcase or you may do damage (pump will do 20 in HG in a perfectly sealed environment). Since installing this system my oil ejection has dropped to virtually nothing. I chose to return the oil to the 1-4 bank due to the crank rotation. If you monitor your crankcase vacuum and if it is too high, then simply add another return tube to the 5-8 cover and call it a day.
The vacuum pump uses the stock air pump pulley on the crank.
In my opinion this is the ultimate system for a street car that will see the odd DE day on street tires.
However I do want to step in here and make another comment. If you want to keep your engine intact, get the most out of it, and have a reliable motor with no issues. Take off the CIS, and distributor. Convert the car to a standalone EFI system like Adaptronic, VEMS, Megasquirt, MoTeC, AEM, DTA Fast, or the multitude of other systems out there.
I have used VEMS and Megasquirt, for a boosted car I would recommend VEMS over Megasquirt due to VEMS having dual knock control right out of the box. With these systems you should run Coil On Plug (COP), or Coil Near Plug (CNP), both are distributorless ignition systems which are fully programmable ignition curves. You can run them MAF, MAP, or speed density based should you choose.
If you choose to not continue down that road, then I hope that you have your distributor resprung/weighted to achieve less maximum advance based on boost and confirm that the engine is not pinging via other means or you will blow up another motor. There are 2 photos attached of what I have done on a 16V motor for CNP (EDIS-8) and the intake changes I made for it.
If you do choose to install the 86.5 32V heads onto your motor, I have NEW camshafts for sale with BIG lift and duration to help you get the absolute MAXIMUM power out of your car.
(picture attached)
02-27-2012, 03:05 PM
#22
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Here's a super skilled professionally drawn image of Colin's setup, for anyone willing to replicate it:
EDIT: Like Colin stated, he's not using Provent, but some homebrew separator instead. It shouldn't matter much though.
EDIT: Like Colin stated, he's not using Provent, but some homebrew separator instead. It shouldn't matter much though.
Last edited by 9x8; 02-27-2012 at 04:13 PM.
