worf928

If you refer to the heads pictured in post #53: those are not Brian's (the OP's) heads.

BRB-83-911SC

Thanks. Yep, no bling. The cam towers didn't clean up as nicely as I had hoped, but I didn't do much more than scrub with a brush and citrus degreaser. Blasting and coating to a factory look would have been nice, but it just wasn't within the scope of this project.

As for the cam gears, mine looked good, so no reason to consider others at this time. Not sure about compatability with the ones you pictured.

BRB-83-911SC

Hey Carl - where have you been? I thought you would have enjoyed de-carboning my piston tops.

Very happy with the progress and experience. I would have been stuck on day one without Dave.

Livio928

Is this pitting on heads due to corrisive water coolant? It looks like the heads were filled and re-machined some time in its life. The pits look like they were from the repair and not the coolant since it is located inside the head ring. The gaskets actually looked much better on this head than the other "clean" head. Is the concesus to replace the head then?

BRB-83-911SC

Livio - I can't comment on your heads, but you might get a better response and visibility to your question by starting a new thread with a title specific to your question. More of the folks with the appropriate knowledge would be more likely to see your question.

BRB-83-911SC

Much accomplished this weekend. Engine is ready to go in, and there are no extra parts . We are planning on the install next Sunday.

Aloysius

Ooooh, that's purdy…. Nice work!

Mrmerlin

it looks good from here nice work.
If you want a small project remove the HCV water outlet and scuff the aluminum and the portion where where the tube fits into the housing about 1/2 inch should do then put some blue tape around the aluminum and let the tape sit around the tube then fill it in with some JB weld let it cure then reinstall the outlet,
this ought to prevent the metal tube from sliding out at a future time.
Or you could try to remove the metal tube and Jb weld it to the outlet

OR replace it with the updated part.

Also consider removing the power
steering pump and alternator,
as these may make installation difficult
and the radiator should also be removed
Goodluck with your project

tilac999

Nice work guys.

Livio928

i am envious. My progress is much slower. I look forward to reading more about the install. Picks would be great as well.

BRB-83-911SC

The engine is back where it belongs. The radiator and clutch still need to go in, and a few more connections to make. Then we will add fluids and test for leaks, then see if she runs. I'm not sure what I will do with all of my free time once this is done

tilac999

Looks great!

Orantes

Awesome. Turn the key!!

tv

I spy a new heater valve.

Are those white things in the last pic steering rack bushings? Is that what they are called and are they different from stock? delryn or something.


Oil pan looks nice and clean. You know a clean engine should stay cooler, it gives off its heat in a much more efficient way.

BRB-83-911SC

Thanks guys.

Yes, new heater valve/short hose, just because it was easy and cheap (old one was working fine). There is much more new hidden in there as well - mostly maintenace and rubber type stuff, although everything looked really good for being original to the car. It appears that nothing had ever been touched, except for TB/WP, plugs and filters.

Those are new Delrin rack bushings. This was a lesson learned where I probably should not have fixed what wasn't broken. The old, original bushings were in very good shape, but once I started trying to remove one, there was no turning back - and getting the old ones out was more than I had bargained for. We had the motor and mounts out with the rack still attached, but hanging. Once I started screwing with removing the bushings, we realized they weren't coming out without removing the rack completely and pressing them out. Should have left well enough alone. I am learning to pick my battles....