BRB-83-911SC

1984 Euro S 16v LH 5-speed, 39,000 miles.

This project will begin sometime in January, and this thread will hopefully document the process, as well as serve as a sounding board for advice, questions, issues, etc. Oh, and pictures.

Some basic background: I have owned the car for just over 2 years, bought it from the original owner with 33,000 well documented original miles. It is an all original, unmolested example. Earlier this year I suspected a pinhole HG leak into cylinder 7, as evidenced by slight coolant loss, occasional excessive steam accompanied by rough running on cold startup - this cleared up within a minute or so, and the car would then run great. This was intermittant, and occurred only when the overnight ambient temperature was below 50f. During warmer weather, there were no symptoms. Also, releiving the cooling system pressure by loosening the cap when parking for the night resultd in no cold start symptoms the next day (suspect that no coolat was leaking while running, only residual cooling system pressure forced coolant into the cylinder after warm shut down). Spark plug inspection showed number 7 looking different from the rest (not washed like you would expect with a serious HG cylinder leak, more like it was fouling - taking in oil too?). Block test (blue fluid) was negative, and there were no signs of coolant and water mixing.

Then during a drive this fall, suddenly the leak became major, 1/4 mile from home as I was decelerating on a highway offramp - rough running and a tremendous amount of steam out the exhaust (engine was fully warm at the time). This white smokescreen followed me the 1/4 mile home and into my garage. It has been parked since.

I beleive I have all records since new, and the only mention of coolant change is in 1993 at 17,000 miles, and again in 2009 at 33,000 miles when the timing belt/water pump was changed just prior to me picking up the car. Here's hoping that it is only a gasket issue...

I will be doing much of the work myself, at a well equipped shop, with the guidance of New England's foremost guru, and the resources and moral support available here.

So, the plan:
- Pull the engine and remove the heads; inspect for any damage to heads and block
WYAIT's:
- Motor mounts (Volvo) and pan gasket (cork or silicone?)
- Rack bushings (Derlin)
- Inspect timing belt system (new belt, rollers, tensioner bushings 2 yrs/6k miles ago)
- Inspect water pump (new at the time of timing belt, but appears to be a rebuilt unit as the cost was $165 - replace with new Lasso?)
- Replace thermostat and seals (?? no overheating issues to date)
- Replace heater valve/short hose (?? no leaks or functional issues to date)
- Replace all needed gaskets/seals on engine
- Inspect/replace as needed all rubber bits (vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, fuel lines, intake rubber)
- Send MAF for cleaning/calibration
- Send injectors for testing/cleaning
- Replace clutch master & blue hose
- Replace clutch hose (??)
- Replace clutch release arm ball cup
- Inspect and replace needed mechanical clutch components (been fighting a dragging clutch; all new clutch parts at 19k miles in 1995; already have new slave installed this year)

I am sure I am missing something, and once apart, I will be able better assess the needs. I don't want to "fix what aint broke", but do want to take advantage of the opportunity presented by having the engine out to address age-related issues that would otherwise be a challenge. Keep in mind that this is a great running, low mileage, unmolested, "everything works" car.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I know the feedback will be beneficial to me, and hopefully other novices in the future as they undertake such a project.

tilac999

Brian, let me know if you need a hand with anything.
If you want to go with a cork, pan gasket, I've got one for you.
Good luck!

Doug_B_928

Subscribed with anticipation. It would be great if you could document/do a detailed procedural write-up with pics of how to remove an OB engine.

NoVector

Great project--sounds fun! No doubt, "flush/inspect radiator" and possibly heater core would be on your list.

Just FWIW, I would take a look at your upper A-arm bushings and see how they look; and if they need replaced, do it while the engine is out. Those 2 nuts that hold the A-arm are sooooo accessable while the engine is out. It's not a "must do", but it sure is easier. Good luck!

Melo928

I had exactly same problem in my -84 S and did most of your plans. Well frend of mine did do actual work..

WYAIT: Take also pistons out and clean them, check ring gaps. Check also valve guides wear limit. CHANGE rod bearings&rod nuts and check crank end play.

Plug wires can be also ones to put on renew list. S3 exhaust mod while engine is out? That was on our list but time run out.

Jadz928

Brian,
Great assessment, reads like you have your head wrapped around this pretty well.

I'd go with the new Laso WP. I did it on my S4, similarly, after having replaced it w/a rebuilt 2 years prior.

If the RMS wasn't done the last time the clutch was out, would be a good time to replace that as well.
Some say inspect it, and if it doesn't leak, leave it alone. Your call.

Re: clutch hose, that can be replaced anytime. Inspect it, make a call.

More importantly, stay focused on WYAIT's.

Good luck... will be checking in from time to time.

Merry Christmas!

Jadz928

Is this really necessary at 39K miles?

CraigL

Check the position of the Torque Tube bearings.
Great time to replace leaky transmission seals.

hacker-pschorr

No, I would inspect the bearings and if they are good, re-install with new rod nuts.

tv

I videotaped all the individual steps when I pulled the engine from my 85 Euro, someday I will try to digitize it, JM wanted to include on his CD's. But there is Nothing like Dwayne's threads.




Anyway, this should be quite the adventure. Other than inspecting the insides of the engine when doing the OP gasket, I wouldn't touch anything inside. Definitely change the CPS.

Even though your mileage is low, I would install Constantines heavy duty bearings in the TT. Can't remember the differences between auto and manual, but to remove the engine in my auto the tranny had to be pushed back.

The bolts holding the bell housing to the back of the block are a pita. Perfect time to polish the intake.

DougM

Having just completed an engine out service to my Euro car, you have covered most everything. 1 thing I would do as well is the o-rings and seals on the cam towers behind the gears. Mine didn't leak but after assembling, they started to leak????

928mac

I started the same project last year on Jan 1
It is like a major top end refresh
(head gaskets, intake gaskets, knock sensors if needed-mine were fried,
I mildly ported the heads and gasket match ported the intake.
I just checked everything else and did not follow Dwaynes list but I would recommend to if you are unsure.

Order the full engine gasket kit (got mine from Roger) and then you have every thing you need and more for later on.
It came with Head gaskets I believe.
I was going to install performance gaskets but when I compaired them to the VR ones in Rogers kit, I used the VR gaskets. (need some $200 performance head gaskets)

I would not touch the rod caps at your milage unless you suspect the oil got glycal in it. (anti-freeze)
If it did then all the bearings will be toast.
I do not remove and look at a bearing with out replacing it, it just dose not make sence to me for the cheep cost of bearings.
I also do fix it if its not broke.
I have never looked at my rod bearings but will do them if the engine comes out this year, if not it will be next year. Oil pressure is still good.

Thats my 9 2 8 cents
The differance is a little bit more power

BRB-83-911SC

Thanks all for the input. While I am not that excited about tearing in this deep on a car with low miles and is basically as it left the factory, I do understand that age factors into the need for refreshing certain components. I am excited about the learning experience, and the fact that with the engine out I can take care of a few known needs rather easily (MM's, OPG, and other seals for example). I will need to keep the WYAIT's in check, and certian items that look good now and can be tackled later with the engine in will wait until their time is due. Assessment once the engine is out will dictate what gets done now. Your thoughts on what I should be looking for is very helpful.

Thanks!

Merry Christmas everyone!

Ad0911

Well, i have been in this type of job for quite some time now, including a lot of WYAIT jobs. What frustrated me most was the debris from the old headgasket falling into the cilinder on top of the piston while taking off the heads. I should have done that upside down to prevent this. Now I have to take out the pistons to clean out the cilinders. That started the discussion whether or not to replace the bolts that hold the endcap on the big ends. I decided not to but of course will replace the nuts.

928mac

Drain the oil into a clean pan and inspect for water/coolent.
When you first loosen the plug if there is water in the oil it will come out first. watch very close.