Brake fluid question
#17
Burning Brakes
"Synthetic" is fine. It's silicon brake fluid (DOT 5) that you want to avoid.
I like Valvoline Synthetic. Its wet and dry boiling points are nearly as high as Ate fluid but it's cheap and readily available at any Pep Boys or other local auto parts emporium.
The most important thing is to flush your system every year (or two). Brake fluid is hygroscopic - meaning that it absorbs moisture. Fluids cannot be compressed - which is why hydraulic brake systems work - when you step on the brakes, the force on the pedal is transmitted directly to the brake caliper through the brake lines. However, if your brake fluid is old and has absorbed moisture, the moisture can "boil" under heavy usage and be transformed into a gas. Unlike a fluid, a gas can be readily compressed - causing loss of brakes - just when you need them the most!
James
Edit: I see Bilal has already recommended Valvoline Synthetic, so I'll second his recommendation.
I like Valvoline Synthetic. Its wet and dry boiling points are nearly as high as Ate fluid but it's cheap and readily available at any Pep Boys or other local auto parts emporium.
The most important thing is to flush your system every year (or two). Brake fluid is hygroscopic - meaning that it absorbs moisture. Fluids cannot be compressed - which is why hydraulic brake systems work - when you step on the brakes, the force on the pedal is transmitted directly to the brake caliper through the brake lines. However, if your brake fluid is old and has absorbed moisture, the moisture can "boil" under heavy usage and be transformed into a gas. Unlike a fluid, a gas can be readily compressed - causing loss of brakes - just when you need them the most!
James
Edit: I see Bilal has already recommended Valvoline Synthetic, so I'll second his recommendation.
Last edited by jheis; 12-17-2011 at 04:43 AM.
#18
Team Owner
I will say this again use the ATE super blue fluid,
flush out the old and then you should be good to go.
Roger sells the super blue fluid its about 14.00 a liter
flush out the old and then you should be good to go.
Roger sells the super blue fluid its about 14.00 a liter
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Good to know the synthetic is fine to use. I topped off for now but will get it flushed and new fluid put in this coming week. No good having a fast car if you can't stop! :-)
#20
Interesting that on Tire Rack it says "NOTE TO FLORIDA RESIDENTS ONLY: ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid, due to its blue color, cannot be registered in and is not DOT-approved for street cars in Florida." Only in Florida I guess huh??? I guess they'll have the brake fluid police checkin your fluids randomly!!
#21
Rennlist Member
I believe the ATE super blue (and maybe amber) are significantly more hygroscopic than the DOT 3 (and probably synthetic) brake fluids. I change the super blue twice a year in my track car for that reason, as the absorption of moisture significantly lowers the boiling point (had some vaporization at the Glen this past fall with ATE blue fluid that was less than 6 months from opening the can).
For my street car, I use the Castrol LM. I believe it to be much less hygroscopic and change every 3 years - never any sign of corrosion (I rebuilt my calipers last winter, first time in 15+ years of usage).
Gary
For my street car, I use the Castrol LM. I believe it to be much less hygroscopic and change every 3 years - never any sign of corrosion (I rebuilt my calipers last winter, first time in 15+ years of usage).
Gary
#22
Rennlist Member
My brake fluid light came on today. It's just over the min level. What fluid should I use to add a little? I bought some Prestone DOT 3. It complies with the Safety Standard 116, and meets SAE spec J1703. After I got home I realized it's synthetic and thought I remember reading NOT to use synthetic?
This means you need to likely service brake pads.
Fluid goes down because pads wear..if you add more fluid, you'll get to then remove it when you (soon now) need to replace some pads.
#23
Rennlist Member
#24
I believe the ATE super blue (and maybe amber) are significantly more hygroscopic than the DOT 3 (and probably synthetic) brake fluids. I change the super blue twice a year in my track car for that reason, as the absorption of moisture significantly lowers the boiling point (had some vaporization at the Glen this past fall with ATE blue fluid that was less than 6 months from opening the can).
For my street car, I use the Castrol LM. I believe it to be much less hygroscopic and change every 3 years - never any sign of corrosion (I rebuilt my calipers last winter, first time in 15+ years of usage).
Gary
For my street car, I use the Castrol LM. I believe it to be much less hygroscopic and change every 3 years - never any sign of corrosion (I rebuilt my calipers last winter, first time in 15+ years of usage).
Gary
#25
Rennlist Member
http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/...f_info_us.html
I'd be curious how you actually measure water content of brake fluid. It would be interesting to test by leaving a couple cups of different brake fluids exposed to atmospheric conditions for a few days or a week and test them.
#26
Rennlist Member
You measure it by seeing where it boils pretty much. It degrades incredibly fast if open to moisture...doesnt take much at all.
You have more water in your fuel right now, than you would ever accept in your brake fluid.
You have more water in your fuel right now, than you would ever accept in your brake fluid.
#27
Sounds like a test for an Engineer eh Chris??
#29
Rennlist Member
Mel - funny - I forgot you knew I was an engineer - must have been talking with James Bowen. Actually it sounds like a great science fair project for one of my daughters in about 9 years.