Rebuilt my TO bearing
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Since the dual disc TO bearing is NLA, I decided to give it shot and rebuild it myself. I figured the worst case scenario is that I can't and I send it off as a core. I am not going to describe how to detach the bearing from the pressure plate, that is described well in Sharkskin's write up.
The bearing is made up of 4 parts: the actual bearing, the guide tube that it is pressed onto, the main housing and a rear housing cap. Sorry if I am using the incorrect terms.
With a benchtop vise, you can easily press out the rear cap to be flush with the main housing making it loose enough to hit it with a mallet to separate it from the housing. Here you will be left with 3 separate pieces, the housing, rear cap and the bearing pressed onto the guide tube. These are pictured. If you look at the bearing as it sits on the guide tube, one side is flared to sit flush on the bearing. and the other side has about 1.5" of guide tube. Basically the flared side needs to be "unflared" and pressed through the bearing. I had to go to a machine shop that could press it out.
The bearing is a standard 6008 bearing that can be sourced at a local supply or on the net. My bearing that came out was a NTN 6008 LU. I took it to a supply house and they showed me different replacements ranging from $18-$80. You can order them cheaper through the internet, but I wanted to have this all done while running errands. When I realized that the machine shop could press out the bearing, I went back and purchased the bearing. I chose a Japanese made sealed one that was $32. The guy said that today, the Japanese made bearings are the best in the industry. I took it back to the machine shop and he pressed the bearing back on and pressed the flare back. He then put the bearing back in the housing and pressed the rear cap back on. It took him all of 5-10 minutes and he charged me $25.
If I had to do it again, I would order the bearing online and save a few dollars because I know that there is a shop that would press out the guide tube for me and re-assemble.
The bearing is made up of 4 parts: the actual bearing, the guide tube that it is pressed onto, the main housing and a rear housing cap. Sorry if I am using the incorrect terms.
With a benchtop vise, you can easily press out the rear cap to be flush with the main housing making it loose enough to hit it with a mallet to separate it from the housing. Here you will be left with 3 separate pieces, the housing, rear cap and the bearing pressed onto the guide tube. These are pictured. If you look at the bearing as it sits on the guide tube, one side is flared to sit flush on the bearing. and the other side has about 1.5" of guide tube. Basically the flared side needs to be "unflared" and pressed through the bearing. I had to go to a machine shop that could press it out.
The bearing is a standard 6008 bearing that can be sourced at a local supply or on the net. My bearing that came out was a NTN 6008 LU. I took it to a supply house and they showed me different replacements ranging from $18-$80. You can order them cheaper through the internet, but I wanted to have this all done while running errands. When I realized that the machine shop could press out the bearing, I went back and purchased the bearing. I chose a Japanese made sealed one that was $32. The guy said that today, the Japanese made bearings are the best in the industry. I took it back to the machine shop and he pressed the bearing back on and pressed the flare back. He then put the bearing back in the housing and pressed the rear cap back on. It took him all of 5-10 minutes and he charged me $25.
If I had to do it again, I would order the bearing online and save a few dollars because I know that there is a shop that would press out the guide tube for me and re-assemble.
#2
The Parts Whisperer
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Maybe someone who know's more than I do can chime in but should there be any concern reguarding the unswedging and reswedging the sleeve? Does the steel have the ability to do that without loosing strength?
#3
Three Wheelin'
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That was a thought of mine as well. I decided to try it based on a previous post by Podguy. I PM'd him and he said he has done it before with success, so I figured I will give it a go. Since you can't purchase them new anymore, I assume the rebuilt units are done in a similar fashion unless they machine an entirely new inner sleeve.
#4
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We had new sleeves made for our rebuilt units as I thought it was the best solution. Your method may work just fine but I did not want to take the chance.
#5
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At the same time as Mark we had new sleeves machined as the re-swaging of the original concerned me also. I have used up the batch I had made and now order mine from Mark. About $150 and a little easier for those who do not want to procure individual parts.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)