Working on a '85 and having problems with the drivers door lock. If you activate the key lock on the passenger door, the door lock motors in both doors activate and lock the doors. When you unlock the passenger door, the passenger motor activates immediately and then the drivers door activates about 3 seconds later. The issue is when you try to lock/unlock from the drivers door. When using the drivers door, the motor does not activate in either door. The motor seems to work since it activates when using the passenger door so I don't think that is the problem. Any ideas?

 

Did you check the door lock fuses?

They are separate from the fuse panel, located within a pair of in-line fuse holders.

 

Sounds like a loose/faulty switch or connection on the end of the driver's door lock.

 

What Wally said. The door lock needs to complete a circuit when you put the key in all the way and turn it. If the motor is working with only the passenger lock, the switch inside the driver side door needs to be checked.

 

Does anyone have a part number for the switch? I am not seeing it in PET.

I also have an issue with my locking button on the center console. I have tried 2 different modules and the light and function of the "key" button does not work. I am hoping it is the fuse behind the CE panel. Anyone else have any ideas?

 

I have the EXACT same problem.....I can lock/unlock the doors from the passenger side, but when I turn the key in the drivers door, it only locks the drivers door (and the door lock pins do not flash red). I don't hear the electrical sound I hear from the passenger side and the key doesn't turn as smoothly.

I took the lock out and fiddled with it, but nothing.

 

Checked both lock fuses behind the CE. They were both good. Anyone have any other ideas?

 

I pulled the driver door lock cylinder out. I removed the connector on the end of the switch and cleaned it. I have continuity between each contact and the corresponding pin in the flat 3 pin connector. I then checked continuity between where this door cylinder harness connects behind the door panel and where is comes out after it routes through the door hinge. All three contacts are showing good. This harness under the instrument cluster routes in behind the console.

I hooked the cylinder back up in the car (not installed in the door) and I still cannot get the passenger side to cycle with it.

I plan to trace where the 3 wires route to behind the console to see if I can find anything there. If anyone has more ideas, please let me know.

 

Does your car have the factory alarm? If it doesn't, you can swap the door lock from the passenger door to the driver door and see if it works. If it does, it's definetly your door lock and a used one from 928Intl is CHEAP especially now with 1/2 off used stuff.

If it still doesn't work with the passenger door lock in the driver door, then you may have to trace the wiring.

If you do have the factory alarm, a used lock w/alarm is $175, then take off 50%. So it may be worth getting one before you go hunting any further.

 

Maybe a bad lock control unit.

 

This car does not have the factory alarm. I swapped the pass side door lock with the drivers side and had the same symptoms. I can still only lock both doors from the drivers side. That rules out the door locks.

I traced the wiring that the door locks connect to. It is a brown/red, brown, brown/green. The drivers door wiring actually connects to the passenger door wiring. So, both door locks hook to one another. I checked continuity between the drivers side wiring where the door locks connect to the same place on the passenger door and it is good on all three pins.

I also tried swapping the door locking module located under the console, drivers side of the tunnel.

I also found a post on Pelican that had the exact same problem. The solution was by accident. The guy accidentally tapped the window winder relay and the door locks started working. He took it out and cleaned it and all was good. I did try this, but it did not do any good. Not sure if it just coincidence or what. I am not aware the door locks also run through this relay.

I am slowly running out of things to check. Anyone have any more ideas?

 

I posted a solution to mine door lock problems, on mine it was cut wires in the fairlead going from the door to the chassis.
It very well may not be this, but it also just might be.

 

Even though you have tested for continuity, you might still have a broken wire in the door harness. It might make contact intermittently (usually while you are testing it) or perhaps it might make a good enough contact to read alright on a meter, but not good enough to work properly.

Sometimes the outer sheath looks fine, but the internal wire strands are broken from the flexing over the years.

Bob

 

I finally got the drivers side motor to function, but it is still not working properly. Like I said before, the passenger side door locks itself and both doors correctly. The problem was the the drivers door would only lock itself and not initiate the motors from the drivers side.

I checked the adjustment of everything. I can open the door and trip the door lock striker mechanism to fool the system that the door is shut, and it works perfectly. The key will initiate both motors from the drivers side. The problem is that when I close the door for real, it still will not work. The door panels are off and I can reach in the door and manually move the arm that initiates the motor. Works fine on the passenger side, but not on the drivers side. I held in the door jam button and tried it with the door open and it still works with the door lock/striker closed, so what is left?

The only other thing that is odd is that with the door open and the door lock/striker mechanism open (not fooled closed), I can lock the doors with the key on the passenger side, but the drivers side will not turn the key all the way. Should I be able to do this with the door open?

I really do not know what else to do. It just amazes me that with the door open and the door lock/striker mechanism closed the motor works as it is supposed to, but with the door shut, nothing. What is the difference?

 

Ok, just took the door lock/striker mechanism off the door. If the door is open, the door lock motor works fine. As soon as I hold the door shut, it stops working. I checked the door jam plunger pin again and it works when that is pressed in. It must be something else. I was thinking a broken wire in the loom that runs between the door and car like Greg said before, but the door panel is not on and the loom does not move much when opening/closing the door now. I will take a closer look I guess. Totally out of ideas.